![]() |
|
|
| 04-17-2026, 09:33 AM | #133 |
|
Second Lieutenant
![]() 258
Rep 265
Posts |
It makes sense to maximize range. There is no debating this.
The reason it is not done for the most part is the popular skateboard architecture, supply chain/parts count reduction, and other financial and engineering efficiency gains. And I get why new automotive manufacturers making EVs are headed that direction. But legacy manufacturers could easily be providing manual EVs with their existing chassis designs and manufacturing logistics and parts suppliers. We should have about a decade of these things being pumped out before the industry leaves this idea behind and maybe moves to pancake CVTs or I guess just lives with the inefficiency of single-ratio solutions. It's annoying they are wasting this (relatively narrow) opportunity. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
| 04-17-2026, 10:26 AM | #134 |
|
Colonel
![]() 4862
Rep 2,434
Posts |
I love the idea but it seems car companies and mass market consumers are already trying to phase out driver inputs as much as possible with self driving as the end goal. Going the other direction won't look good on their $$$ spreadsheets.
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
| 04-18-2026, 08:26 PM | #135 | |
|
General
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 22144
Rep 21,242
Posts |
Quote:
That video you posted about a manual transmission EV was a clown show - LOL. Real automotive engineering shows a single-speed EV with regenerative braking solution is more energy efficient than a multi-speed manual EV, which is why all EV use such a setup.
__________________
A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
|
|
|
Appreciate
2
Car-Addicted10215.50 afadeev4391.00 |
| Yesterday, 09:02 AM | #136 | |
|
Colonel
![]()
2858
Rep 2,551
Posts |
Quote:
I am in Benton County AR in a nice townhouse with an attached garage. In the living quarters there is an electric stove/oven and clothes washer and clothes dryer. The stove/oven and dryer are 220V (single phase). Oh the electrical service here is a 200amp (single phase) service. Just last week paid $287 to have a 220/240VAC outlet installed to use with the BMW charger and adapter cable to charge my new i4. I had been using 120VAC and as soon as I could I gave the high voltage charging a try. Approx. 4 times faster. At some point I noticed the A/C current charging limit was set to unlimited. I tried setting it to 24 amps and 40 amps and then back up to 48 amps. At any current charging setting I cannot detect any signs of any problems. And the charging speed with the charging current limit set to 40/48amps is quite impressive. Yesterday charged battery from 43% SOC to 80% SOC. Took 3 hours 26 minutes and the charging level was at 9kWh the entire charging session. When I charged with the A/C charging current limit set to 24 amps the kWh was 6. But at 40 amps it went to 9kWh. So it would appear the circuit can deliver reliably over time 9kWh. The first charging session was at an AC Charge Point (a public charging station) and it charged the battery at 6kWh. And A/C charging current limit was set to unlimited. With more experience under my belt I'm surprised at a public charger the charging was done at 6kWh while at home I can charge at 9kWh. The public charging station had two charger connections. The 2nd one was plugging into a Tesla but according to the display for that cable the battery charge target was reached and I assume there was no current draw that would have affected my charging session. So sorry to read of charging limitations where you are but I'm thankful I have access to for home charging rather good charging speed. And cost is low. For 395 miles of i4 use I have spent ~$14 for electricity. That's 3.5 cents per mile. But just to be clear the motivation for getting an i4 was not to avoid the pain at the pump but rather to experience a quality BEV and in the form of a nice driving car and so far the i4 had delivered in spades. |
|
| Yesterday, 11:59 AM | #137 | |||
|
Brigadier General
![]() 4391
Rep 3,456
Posts |
Quote:
I'm on my 6th EV (2 of those in my current fleet), still using the original 240V Siemens home EVSE I had installed ~15 years ago. Works perfectly, can charge any car from 0-100% overnight, not that any of my cars ever reach 0%, or that I need to charge them more than once/week. But when I do, I plug them in in the evenging, and it is fully charged by the morning. Quote:
Any circuit can be wired for any level of current. Depending on the intended use. In the US, all 120V general use circuits are sized for 15-20AMPs per US electric code. 20A for kitchen/laundry. US homes also have at least one (usually 2+) 240V circuits wired for 30A-60A. I repurposed one of those for my EVSE. The usual limit is that total load should not exceed 80% of the breaking rating (e.g.: 16A max for a 20A breaker). There is no way in hell would an Australian 240V circuit by capped at 2 AMPs. Perhaps you meant 20 AMPs? Otherwise, W == V*A == 240 * 2 = 480 Watts --> that circuit will get tripped by a couple of decent sized light bulbs or a desktop computer! Do you guys have hair dryers down under? If you do, your circuits must be sized for at least 15 AMPs (hair dryers run at 10-15 AMPs). Quote:
32 AMPS at 240V == 7.68KW per hour of charging. Most EV batteries are sized between 50–82 kWh. Mine are 82 kWh NCA and 72.8 kWh LFP. Basic math will tell you that I could fully recharge both in 10.6 or 9.5 hours, not that I've ever had a chance to charge for that long since the lowest I've ever gotten any EV battery was in low teens. It's worthwhile to point out that my 82 kWh Model 3 can (optimistically) go for 353 miles on a full charge, at the cost of $0.14 per kW. Thus $11.48 for 353 miles, or $0.0325 per mile. The best either of my ICE cars can do is 27 MPG on the highway (best case scenario). At the current ~$4.00 per gallon (for cheap stuff, $4.79 for premium), that's $0.1481 per mile. Or 4.56 multiple delta between the two powertrains. Or, assuming 10K miles/year, $1,156.27 cost savings per year of EV - ICE. Or a full set of track tires worth of savings per year! YMMV, a
__________________
'15 F80 M3 (SO/SS)
'21 TM3P (Blue/White) '25 Lexus RZ (White/Blue) ex-'17 I01 i3-BEV (PB/DD), ex-'15 I01 i3-REX, ex-E90, E46, E36's, E30's |
|||
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
| Bookmarks |
|
|