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11-26-2012, 08:29 PM | #1 |
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radiator/coolant change?
Do I need to have it changed? Dealer says that it's "diluted" but I'm wondering if this is necessary/good idea? Have you guys changed it before and at what intervals? I'm at 55k miles/88k kms.
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11-26-2012, 09:37 PM | #2 |
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Mike Miller (BMW CCA Technical Editor) in his famous Mike Miller's Old School Maintenance Schedule recommends a coolant flush every 2 years with 50% BMW anti-freeze and 50% distilled water. Note this is if you want to keep your car for a long time (i.e. 100k+) or you want to be kind to the next owner.
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11-27-2012, 07:17 AM | #3 |
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My dealer also recommended a coolant flush recently. Perhaps it is better to have it done before this winter?
Last edited by Asbjorn; 11-27-2012 at 07:29 AM.. |
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11-27-2012, 08:05 PM | #5 |
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I find it curious that a dealer recommended a coolant change when BMW calls it a lifetime fill. I thought they had to tow the company line.
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11-28-2012, 04:21 PM | #6 |
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^The dealerships in my area claim that tranny and differential fluids are lifetime but they didn't mention anything about coolant though. :shrug:
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11-29-2012, 10:08 AM | #7 | |
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Lifetime all as far as BMW are concerned is 100K but you have to put a gun to their heads to get them to admit it !!!!! No such thing as lifetime oil |
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11-29-2012, 10:07 PM | #8 | |
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Re diff fluid, did you mean 50K miles or kms? |
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11-30-2012, 02:56 PM | #9 | |
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Ps always remove the FILL plug first before you drain out the old !! many a poor soul has drained the diff/transmission and then found they cannot get the fill plug loose to refill.....doom Last edited by raven333; 11-30-2012 at 03:02 PM.. |
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11-30-2012, 09:50 PM | #10 | |
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12-01-2012, 01:44 PM | #11 |
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Not to argue the point about a drain plug as I have not checked, no need as yet, but I would be surprised, as with those vacuum pumps you do not get all of the oil out, which would make it incredibly messy if then have to drop the pan to remove any trace of metal shards (which may also be attached to the magnets).....
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12-01-2012, 08:04 PM | #12 | |
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12-02-2012, 03:59 AM | #13 |
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Ok, a dealership is saying there is a difference between just draining the radiator and filling w/ new coolant vs draining it, actually cleaning it w/ some equipment, and filling it up w/ new coolant? What is the norm?
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12-02-2012, 02:24 PM | #14 |
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12-02-2012, 03:26 PM | #15 |
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Look back at my first post. I was referencing raven333's post regarding the diff, not the tranny. No drain plug on the diff.
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12-02-2012, 04:04 PM | #16 |
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Hi ! you are correct there is no drain plug on the Diff, I agree with you I cannot believe that they did not put a drain plug in, I know for a fact that you do get some amounts of metal shavings in the diff., no where near what you get in the tranny but still some, and not being able to at least empty the diff completely is insane !!! Life time oils again a complete misnomer. Smoke now in my direction
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12-03-2012, 08:36 AM | #17 | |
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12-10-2012, 05:30 PM | #18 |
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Is a roadtest necessary after a coolant flush is done? I would have thought that this is not needed, but I dunno...
On a similar matter, are roadtests required when sparkplugs and brakes are changed? |
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12-10-2012, 08:50 PM | #19 |
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New brake pads should be ridden lightly for a spell because their fully braking ability is not immediate. However, new pads do not need to be bedded in.
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12-11-2012, 01:58 AM | #20 |
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I see that new brake pads should be ridden lightly, but shouldn't they leave it to the customer instead of roadtesting it themselves? I just don't like unnecessary roadtests because I hate the idea of the potential for joyriders (it's just a Z4, not a Ferrari, but still, I can't stand other ppl unjustifiably driving my baby), unless a roadtest is absolutely necessary.
I have no idea about the need for roadtesting sparkplugs and also after a coolant flush? Any ideas guys? |
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02-04-2013, 05:17 AM | #21 |
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I just had my coolant changed at 42.000km / 4 years because I hope to keep this car long-term. The process was to first drain the radiator using the drain plug as seen on this video.
youku.com/ Then air pressure was added and the engine was turned on shortly to get out the last drops. Next they refilled with bmw antifreeze mixed with bottled drinking water 3:1. I don't know why they didnt add more water. I believe 1:1 would have been sufficient. On the other hand I am happy they did not add any more of that non-destilled water... Next they added pressure to the system and monitored the pressure over a few minutes to check for leaks. Finally they turned on the engine to see if it heated up normally. I also had the fuel and air filters changed, and they cleaned my inlet manifold to remove carbon buildup. Old air filter (which has been cleaned several times before using high pressure air) New air filter I also snapped a picture of a 3-series 335 convertible parked nearby. It seems that the anti-roll bars were beefed up a bit on the Z4. Last edited by Asbjorn; 02-04-2013 at 05:28 AM.. |
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02-04-2013, 04:16 PM | #22 | |
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I was under the impression (from using Hawk and Carbotech aftermarket pads in the past) that achieving a good transfer layer on the rotor from proper break in was extremely important. |
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