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      03-13-2012, 03:30 PM   #1
DavidJS
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Jack Stands - Where?

I see where the jack points are, funny little rectangular receptacles. I've ordered a special jack pad from ECS Tuning that fits those rectangles (ECS part #10721). What I don't see is, once you have the car raised with a jack, where would you place jack stands? Say you wanted to place stands to change the oil.
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      03-13-2012, 03:38 PM   #2
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thats a really good question, like you i would like to know, those modern BMW looks very tricky to work on.
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      03-13-2012, 03:43 PM   #3
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Good question, but I don't jack my car up to do an oil change. I drive the front wheels up on ramps. That way both sides of the car are lifted giving you more room. Nonetheless, I'd also like to know the answer to your question.
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      03-13-2012, 04:12 PM   #4
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Re:

I'd also like this info as the wife has just bought me a race jack, jack pad and stands.

I want to get the wheels of to clean them proper.

There is pics on this forum of the underside of the E89. Perhaps someone in the know could mark suitable stand points on those pics.
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      03-13-2012, 08:32 PM   #5
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While this fellow (link below) gives some good pointers. As an additional safety I always placed one of my spare wheels and wood planks as an additional safety under my car(s) on each side when I changed oil in my garage. I always have spare wheels in the garage and 2 x 6 wood planks for that very purpose. As they say "better safe then sorry"

This way to the fellows input ===>Cilck to Open
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      03-13-2012, 08:53 PM   #6
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Thanks, Rolf, but my question was not about how to stay safe. I'm pretty careful about that. Rather, the question is where it is structurally safe (for the car - to avoid damage to the car) to place jack stands. From my cursory inspection (without actually raising the car yet) I don't see any obvious places, and with the jack itself taking up the jack point, I can't use that. So where?
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      03-13-2012, 10:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidJS View Post
Thanks, Rolf, but my question was not about how to stay safe. I'm pretty careful about that. Rather, the question is where it is structurally safe (for the car - to avoid damage to the car) to place jack stands. From my cursory inspection (without actually raising the car yet) I don't see any obvious places, and with the jack itself taking up the jack point, I can't use that. So where?
David, Sorry I left that part out. On my cars (I never did it on my Z4) I use a jack under the front axel then jack it up and set the car on jacks. Don't forget to use some other safety support (like a wheel and some blocking bed=fore going under the car).

I am sure if you Google your concerns there are tons of more helpful hints out there. Good Luck.

Cheers, Rolf
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      03-14-2012, 08:03 AM   #8
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I had mine 4 wheels off the ground now probably 3 or 4 times doing wheel inspections and oil changes.

I jack mine up using the jack pads and place the jack stands under the front wishbone (PN 11) as close to the frame pivot point (PN12) as possible. On the rear - under the trailing arm (PN 1) about mid span between the pivot point and axle/wheel hub.

The rear is a no brainer as the trailing arm is very structural. Be careful on placing the front to minimize the jack stand slipping as you settle the car on the jack stand when lowering the jack. I usually set up the rear first and then front. The frame is very stiff when you begin lifting at one point half the car usually will comes off the ground, which makes it interesting when setting or removing the jack stands. Lowering is front down first then rear. When you put it back on the ground the car suspension will not settle properly until you release the e brake.

I'll take some pics the next time I have it up, but that won't be for a few more months when I do my 20K mile 296 wheel inspection.




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      03-14-2012, 08:11 AM   #9
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Excellent write up HerrK
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      03-14-2012, 09:08 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HerrK View Post
...
I jack mine up using the jack pads and place the jack stands under the front wishbone (PN 11) as close to the frame pivot point (PN12) as possible. ...
Thanks, HerrK! Seems like I can't get to RealOEM from my work PC, but I think I know where you are referring to.

Thanks, again!

Last edited by DavidJS; 03-14-2012 at 10:36 AM.
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      03-14-2012, 01:15 PM   #11
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Re:

HerrK thanks for the explanation.

Feel a little safer now jacking the car up.

Would really like some sort of small lift to take the entire car up but none of the ones i've seen seem suitable.
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      03-14-2012, 02:39 PM   #12
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HerrK is right on "The frame is very stiff when you begin lifting at one point half the car usually will comes off the ground" I have only done some brake work and one side at a time but as soon as you start lifting from the back corner the whole side goes up and can put the jack stands on the jack points to the front and axle wheel hub. not tried then going to other side and lifting...
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      03-14-2012, 03:36 PM   #13
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great post Heerk
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      03-15-2012, 01:11 AM   #14
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i just put them right next to where you jack it up from, its the same as having them on those jack "blocks"

Been doing it for years on numerous types of cars and never ever had a prob.
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      03-19-2012, 11:09 PM   #15
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Thanks, HerrK, your method worked perfectly.
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      03-20-2012, 12:36 AM   #16
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The N54 and N55 E92s have a small round cover plate roughly between the wheels, maybe a bit forward. Under that is a jack point. Perhaps it's there for the E89??
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      06-15-2012, 11:14 AM   #17
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Additional jack points

These attachments show the Z4 jack points from a manual I have. I have only used the side ones, but it looks like there is a point in the front #1 and in the rear as well #4.

The book says jacking the differential at #3 requires removal of the heat shield. Although with #4, I do not know why you would use #3.

They recommend a jack with a rubber pad. I do not think I would be able to justify the price for the one shown in the photo.
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File Type: pdf 2009 Z4 Jack Points.pdf (564.0 KB, 315 views)
File Type: pdf 2009 Z4 Differential Heat Shield.pdf (701.7 KB, 165 views)
File Type: pdf BMW Trolley Jack.pdf (201.7 KB, 223 views)
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      06-15-2012, 02:00 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpwolfe31 View Post
These attachments show the Z4 jack points from a manual I have. I have only used the side ones, but it looks like there is a point in the front #1 and in the rear as well #4.

The book says jacking the differential at #3 requires removal of the heat shield. Although with #4, I do not know why you would use #3.

They recommend a jack with a rubber pad. I do not think I would be able to justify the price for the one shown in the photo.
Thanks for the post and pix. No need for an expensive jack with a rubber jack pad. If you have to jack at the 4 points under the side skirts, just buy an insert from www.reverselogic.com. It fits into the recess and provides a place for the jack to rest without touching the car.
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      06-27-2012, 09:15 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jpwolfe31 View Post
...They recommend a jack with a rubber pad. I do not think I would be able to justify the price for the one shown in the photo.
Instead of a jack with an integrated rubber pad, just use 99 cent hockey pucks. They work great. Here is my Porsche on jackstands with hockey pucks.
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      07-08-2012, 12:01 PM   #20
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+1 The Z4 chassis is very stiff. I did a 296 wheel inspection last week and jacked the car from the rear jack points and was able to put two axel stands on the front jack points by lifting from the rear points.

Used a new low level jack, Arcan 3 ton, which I picked up from Costco in the UK, which while very heavy, worked really well for lifting the Z4. My previous jack from Halfords had blown a seal and I discovered it sitting in a pool of oil when I last opened the box
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      07-08-2012, 12:24 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4-35i View Post
+1 The Z4 chassis is very stiff. I did a 296 wheel inspection last week and jacked the car from the rear jack points and was able to put two axel stands on the front jack points by lifting from the rear points.

Used a new low level jack, Arcan 3 ton, which I picked up from Costco in the UK, which while very heavy, worked really well for lifting the Z4. My previous jack from Halfords had blown a seal and I discovered it sitting in a pool of oil when I last opened the box
I would never trust hydraulic jacks (unless they are used with a block to save-guard the load/lift) I use the mechanical dead lock type. No chance of a seal leak here that would let the jack down and cause an accident. All I am saying is have some sort of safety net to catch the lift should the hydraulic jack fail (safety first).
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      07-09-2012, 11:13 AM   #22
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+1 I only use the trolley jack to get the car high enough to be lowered onto the axle stands. Fortunately my old trolley jack failed and leaked while it was in storage and not while I was lifting the car.
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