M3 Upper and lower control arms

[rif75]

Originally Posted by Vetracr

E90 M3 control arms fit fine on E89. Only caveat is they add negative camber and toe in which need to be adjusted with alignment. Also you need to fab headlight height adjustment bracket to attach link to control arm.

Thanks. I already did it 3 years ago on my 335i. What do you mean by fab? I have to by the m3 one like on e92 or it s different on the z4?

[jts1981]

Originally Posted by rif75

Thanks. I already did it 3 years ago on my 335i. What do you mean by fab? I have to by the m3 one like on e92 or it s different on the z4?

Check out the "robbing the e9x..." thread for full details.

The only discrepancy I see is if the control arms add negative camber. Some say the only benefit is better bushings. I don't remember at the moment if the thread mentioned the negative camber increase, but the Turner states the e9x M has an additional .75 negative camber. I'm in the increased negative camber camp.

[Vetracr]

Originally Posted by rif75

Thanks. I already did it 3 years ago on my 335i. What do you mean by fab? I have to by the m3 one like on e92 or it s different on the z4?

The M3 headlight adjustment is on driver side. It is on passenger side on Z4. You have to fab (fabricate/build) a bracket to attach to M3 passenger side control arm.

[jts1981]

Originally Posted by Vetracr

The M3 headlight adjustment is on driver side. It is on passenger side on Z4. You have to fab (fabricate/build) a bracket to attach to M3 passenger side control arm.

Check out the thread i mentioned earlier, I posted a very simple solution for this using an off the shelf clamp. I think other members may have posted where to buy links for a similar item on that thread as well.

[rif75]

Okey cool. I ll check that.

Thanks again

[rif75]

Originally Posted by jts1981

Check out the thread i mentioned earlier, I posted a very simple solution for this using an off the shelf clamp. I think other members may have posted where to buy links for a similar item on that thread as well.

Just went off the thread. Still need to know if I need to buy the m3 regulating rod or keep the z4 one. Can you give me a link of the shelf clamp that you used? I'm in Switzerland so not sure to find it here.

Thanks a lot

[fmorelli]

If by "regulating rod" you mean the tension strut (the arm that goes forward from the bottom of the strut), then you have three choices:
1) buy the complete E9x M3 tension struts (31102283575, 31102283576), which has the upgraded bushing which is stiffer. (see here)
2) just buy the E9x M3 bushings for the tension struts, and press in with a hydraulic press (2 needed: 31102283579)
3) Or as I did, order up a solid spherical bearing, such as the one by AKG Motorsport, to replace the bushing (like #2).

#1 is easiest, #2 and #3 are easy if you have a way to press the bushings out and in.

Good luck!

Filippo

[jts1981]

Originally Posted by rif75

Just went off the thread. Still need to know if I need to buy the m3 regulating rod or keep the z4 one. Can you give me a link of the shelf clamp that you used? I'm in Switzerland so not sure to find it here.

Thanks a lot

You mean the headlight level? You keep the e89 one, just need the clamp I mentiomed earlier.

[rif75]

Originally Posted by jts1981

You mean the headlight level? You keep the e89 one, just need the clamp I mentiomed earlier.

Thanks jts. does the clamp has a particular name or do you have a link so I can find it? I don t reconize it on your pictures...

[jts1981]

Originally Posted by rif75

Thanks jts. does the clamp has a particular name or do you have a link so I can find it? I don t reconize it on your pictures...

My mechanic had it on hand so I guess its pretty common.

Filippo showed me tbis earlier today...itll probably work

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GITMGTE/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_cO9zzbNB582HR#immersive-view_1499997505834

[fmorelli]

jts1981 suggestion of the stainless steel wire ties is good. When I was doing it I didn't have those yet, and used a black plastic wire tie, which has held up for a year. I'll replace it with the stainless ones I now have. Here are a couple photos, as my car is up in the air right now.

In the photos you can see I have two wire ties being used: one tie is just on the arm, but prevents the mount from walking down the arm. The second photo shows a wire tie acting as a clasp. When you pop the mount off the regular arm, it is not big enough to clasp the M3 arm. I just ran the wire tie through the two slots and tugged.

Hmmm come to think of it I'll replace these with the stainless ones while the car is up in the air.

Filippo

[rif75]

Thanks for the advices guys. I ll put the M3 setup next week.

[BQ Tuning]

Interesting, I take my car in for an alignment and both my rear low wishbones were bent. so had to order new ones.

Any idea how this could have been ?

[NoQuarter]

Originally Posted by BQ Tuning

Interesting, I take my car in for an alignment and both my rear low wishbones were bent. so had to order new ones.

Any idea how this could have been ?

Are you on lower springs? Could lowering it change the geometry enough to put stress in the wrong direction to bend them I wonder?

If they are bent exactly the same on both sides then that would be a clue I suppose. (Thinking that an impact would bend differently on each side)

[BQ Tuning]

Originally Posted by NoQuarter

Are you on lower springs? Could lowering it change the geometry enough to put stress in the wrong direction to bend them I wonder?

If they are bent exactly the same on both sides then that would be a clue I suppose. (Thinking that an impact would bend differently on each side)

No not at, all stock suspension unless a whole lot of torque did that....lol

[fmorelli]

Originally Posted by BQ Tuning

Interesting, I take my car in for an alignment and both my rear low wishbones were bent. so had to order new ones

How do they know they were bent? Did they have contact damage? Something could look bent and be just fine (let me guess, they both looked bent the same way?)

Filippo

[BQ Tuning]

Originally Posted by fmorelli

How do they know they were bent? Did they have contact damage? Something could look bent and be just fine (let me guess, they both looked bent the same way?)

Filippo

Gonna get some pics to compare. I really hope that's not case as I would have a wasted day

[BQ Tuning]

It just dawned on me on a possibility why they are bent, tmf dyno when they were strapping the rear of the car down

[jts1981]

Originally Posted by BQ Tuning

No not at, all stock suspension unless a whole lot of torque did that....lol

I have Turner trailing arms, and actually bent one arm on the dyno which used to strap the car down. Thank god they sell just the one piece for $40. That said I can believe a stock arm would bend on a dyno, but you never know. Just some food for thought...

[BQ Tuning]

Stay off dynos lol



Since our rears are favored to the E46 rear suspension and you need to go on a dyno, for safety get a pair of these to make sure the car straps down correctly and nothing is compromised and damaged

VAC sells a tie down adapter for our rears

https://store.vacmotorsports.com/mob...ter-p1469.aspx

[NoQuarter]

You put some hurt on those!

The tie downs from VAC look very functional

[KennyP]

Anyone who has fitted m3 front control arms...

I just recieved a set of m3 arms and soon going forward with the install.
I know that alignment is needed.. thats common knowledge and selfexplanatory.

But..
Do headlights need any adjustment too? Or are they completely fine after install? Attaching level sensor rod to the new arm wont throw it off?