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08-18-2023, 12:22 PM | #1 |
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Help please new owner
I have a 2013 z4 and I having some issues. I'm more of a if I can fix it myself I'll try.the issue I'm having is first passenger door won't open. My hard top won't open at all its blinking red the button. The pop up screen won't come on only some times. My middle circle button don't want to work. It's also telling me something about passenger multifunction.
Any help I would appreciate anything I can check on my own I can do it just need to know what. |
08-18-2023, 01:29 PM | #3 |
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Your first step is to buy a decent code reader..with over 35 microprocessors on this car, almost everting is commanded / controlled by an ECU.
Your first step is to get the fault codes. Having said that multiple failures can be caused by a bad battery but you sound to be in a worse place.
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08-18-2023, 03:29 PM | #5 |
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You will need to get a code reader that week read more than OBD2 codes. Get something BMW specific like bimmertools, pro tools or MHD, etc. to read specific modules
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08-19-2023, 02:59 AM | #6 | |
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In what way? Won't unlock? Physically won't release on pulling the handle? etc
So you press, and hold, the button? Do the windows go down at all? Hmmmm ** ?? What button? Quote:
Yeah defo codes need reading, with a proper reader that can read BMW. You need a proper one for two reasons, one, as above, so it can read specific modules, but also so it can clear the codes properly as well (well at least try to!) ** But, as stated by B21 above, this is very much looking like a battery issue. These modules are very susceptible to battery issues in some very wired ways that, sometimes, have no relation to each other, ie; one persons issues will bear no similarities to another, even though they have the same modules fitted.
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2011, E89 23i, Grey with Red leather.... relatively basic (getting less and less basic with every new retrofit)! ![]() My Z4 E89 YouTube channel... https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtt...0vHFUQnoEvKB2Q |
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08-20-2023, 03:30 PM | #7 |
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I too am a new owner. In my case, it’s a 2011. I note this thread to another new owner and agree it only makes sense to get a scanner and at least find out what’s going on. In my case, however, my ability to address issues is limited, very limited.
First, I’m curious to learn how many things are addressable by owners when they go wrong. While I don’t know details, just the top mechanism seems rife with sensors, micro switches and gosh knows what else. If I learned that micro switch Z38a44k went bad via the scanner, is it possible for me to replace it? I haven’t a clue all these devices’ locations. Second, how much does an appropriate scanner cost? I have an $80 generic that works all right on my 2000 Tacoma so when things go odd, I can have an idea of what’s up before I see a repair facility. Although that begs the question of if I need to assure myself that the garage’s diagnosis is accurate then do I want to take my vehicle to such a place for repairs? As to the OP’s passenger door, I’d suspect the unlock mechanism has failed. |
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08-20-2023, 04:45 PM | #8 |
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A not unreasonable set of questions…
The easy one A generic decoder isn’t much help on an E89…generic decoders usually make a reasonable job on the engine and if you are really lucky maybe the gearbox…the problem is the E89 has over 2k additional ECUs that are BMW specific…without a specific BMW decoder you are going to struggle with almost everything. Knowing the fault code at the very least will allow other armchair experts advisre / suggest what may be the cause of your problems. As to whether you can fix matters that depends on your mechanical competence and an adequate toolset.. Personally I’ve found the specific bmw readers very useful. At the very least it means you can have a more reasoned conversation with your favourite repairman �� A 100 usd will get you a very good s/w reader
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Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
Change history here… https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h1vabklgz...0List.pdf?dl=0 Build thread here… https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131886 Last edited by B21; 08-20-2023 at 04:50 PM.. |
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08-21-2023, 06:18 AM | #9 |
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MHD is good for the engine but doesn't read fault codes from other ECUs..AFAIK
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Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
Change history here… https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h1vabklgz...0List.pdf?dl=0 Build thread here… https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131886 |
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08-23-2023, 01:02 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
In the short run, it's moot since I brought the car to a dealer due to a safety recall (PCV valve). While there, I asked the service writer to do a thorough diagnosis to find any issues besides the two I noticed (bad bulb and sketchy battery. The battery was original much to me, the tech and the service writer's shock given that made it 12 years old or so. I opted for a new one. The car came back with no faults or issues much to my relief. Here it is: |
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08-23-2023, 01:07 PM | #12 | |
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Quote:
I hope to hear back from the OP as to what was going on. I think that good deal of it may be simply a worn out battery. |
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08-23-2023, 04:50 PM | #13 |
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[QUOTE=dryadsdad;30426772]I'm unsure if you're talking to me, but if so, I much prefer a direct factual reply than pussyfooting about in an attempt to be 'polite'. Per my post above, since I was at a dealer for a recall, I had the car completely diagnosed and it came back clean aside from two issues I'd already decided needed addressing. I'll still get the scanner because, as you say, a decade + older highly complex car will not remain all in good nick indefinitely.
I hope to hear back from the OP as to what was going on. I think that good deal of it may be simply a worn out battery. Atually no, my reply was to another post. Now deleted that was short and of little help to the conversation. I should have quoted it to avoid this possibility. My fault for creating a potentially confusing post. I try to keep all of my posts polite, even when replying to a post that’s totally full of excrement. Just how I believe people should behave on these forums. I agree, when confronted with multiple faults across mutiple ecu’s my first suspect is power supply. Battery, then major supply cables and grounds. However my first recommendation to anyone wanting to trouble shoot thier own car will be get the right code reading tools. My preference is INPA and Tool32 but these are not easy to use and not suited for everyone. The only time INPA let me down is trouble shooting my hardtop. No functions for the top module that I can find. I had to use INST-d to monitor the micro switches. Maybe I could have used Test-o to log them, didn’t think about it at the time. I’ll try to delete my other post |
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