Roof Movement Impaired

[nomoracin]

And so it begins…

My wife warned me not to get an used BMW out of warranty, but noooo…I didn't want to listen.

Less than a month in and the hardtop won't open now.

- the windows go down
- the glass starts to move
- but stops shortly after
- red light blinks
- roof movement impaired message
- unable to close until I shutoff car and start back up (at least it closes, so I can still drive though)

Anything easy I can try (I'm not very handy/mechanical) or am I stuck with the potential hefty dealership charges?

[Marcoose]

Sorry about your troubles. You don’t have an indy? Where are you located?

[nomoracin]

Originally Posted by Marcoose

Sorry about your troubles. You don’t have an indy? Where are you located?

Northern VA

[Marcoose]

Sadly, I’m at the other side of the continent. I’ve switched from BMW dealer to an indy over 10 years ago and never looked back.

[bryanhoag]

Have you managed to pull any codes?

[nomoracin]

Originally Posted by bryanhoag

Have you managed to pull any codes?

negative...i'll try to google how to do that and post some if i figure it out.

[bryanhoag]

FWIW, sometimes tops malfunction and don't throw codes. Other times the codes they throw don't point to the correct issue. But it may give you some direction. I have been able to pick up a few top codes using BimmerLink.

[bryanhoag]

Also… if you can post a video, people may be able to offer more advice.

[paris1]

Originally Posted by Marcoose

Sadly, I’m at the other side of the continent. I’ve switched from BMW dealer to an indy over 10 years ago and never looked back.

I intended to do the same thing a few years ago when my car went out of warranty and I elected not to purchase a subsequent warranty. But I've found very little difference between dealer and indie service prices and quality in the area I live (55 miles north of SF). So when things go south with the car, I generally get quotes from both and decide which makes more sense. For regular oil/filter changes, it's cheaper to use dealer specials and I've developed a good relationship with one of the dealer service writers which helps. So switching to an indie is not always the best bet.

[bigendbob]

Go to Z forum.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/index.php...4bee782c29b895
Not uncommon problem with fixes.
Get the code read first.

Seems like another broken wire, reconnects when the rear panel settles allowing you to close it.

[Marcoose]

Originally Posted by paris1

I intended to do the same thing a few years ago when my car went out of warranty and I elected not to purchase a subsequent warranty. But I've found very little difference between dealer and indie service prices and quality in the area I live (55 miles north of SF). So when things go south with the car, I generally get quotes from both and decide which makes more sense. For regular oil/filter changes, it's cheaper to use dealer specials and I've developed a good relationship with one of the dealer service writers which helps. So switching to an indie is not always the best bet.

I reckon you have to create loyalty with your indy. If I were to pick and choose which service I take to him, it would not have worked. My suspension set up is all bespoke. Dealers don’t do that. So you have to throw other jobs too. Even if you have better prices elsewhere.

[bryanhoag]

Good luck finding an e89 top expert in the USA at either an Indy shop or dealership. If you find one, let me know!

[RobbiZ4]

Originally Posted by nomoracin

And so it begins…

My wife warned me not to get an used BMW out of warranty, but noooo…I didn't want to listen...

It's not an issue, it's a feature of our beloved E89's!

Originally Posted by bigendbob

Go to Z forum.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/index.php...4bee782c29b895

Much better link :
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=130932
Another link for more technical interested guys - "Y3 Roof Diagnostic System"
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=129048




Hi guys,

This is the typical broken wire in the hydraulic harness of the roof shell. Each E89 will run into this issue!
No video is required, no fault code, no further diagnosis from anybody.

[RobbiZ4]

Originally Posted by bryanhoag

Good luck finding an e89 top expert in the USA at either an Indy shop or dealership. If you find one, let me know!

Oh Bryan,
You already know one.
https://www.staiger-neuffen.de/bmw-z...ach-notdienst/

Just thought about travelling into the States:
I don't need any special tools or spare parts to carry with me, I don't need any diagnostic tools. Every required part or tool can be provided by yourselve.

Robbi

PS:
Set up a happening with 4 up to 10 E89 on a longer weekend or week and share the travelling expenses. We'll renovate each roof harness and replace each microswitch coupling lock in a row. Will be a funny event for all of us. My support will be 4 free.

[paris1]

You do have an odd (German?!) sense of humor Robbi.

[RobbiZ4]

Originally Posted by paris1

You do have an odd (German?!) sense of humor Robbi.

Why? That was a serious proposal that we had discussed already earlier.

[bryanhoag]

Okay… I'm number 1. Need 3 more, preferably mid-Atlantic meet up. I'm in Charlotte, NC!

[nomoracin]

Ok, pulled the error for the hardtop…found many other errors in doing so too. Uuuggghhhh

Also, is this how it's supposed to look from the inside while the hardtop is up?

[RobbiZ4]

Suggestion for my hardtop maintenance program.

As we already now know from more than a hundred repaired E89 roofs, there is wear in the roof wiring harness and in the microswitches coupling fastener as well as on other components.

Based on my public recommendation list, I would offer the following tasks:

• Checking the hydraulic pump for water ingress
• Protecting the hydraulic pump against ingress of water
• Replacing of the 2 salmon relays 12631742690 on the hydraulic pump, if not already done
• Refurbishment of the roof wiring harness on both sides: stabilization of the hydraulic lines, replacement of the (1x2 + 2x2 wires in the roof with new, flexible ones
• Replacing of the 2 microswitch coupling fastener 54377228585+54377228586
• Checking of all 3 hall sensors 54377224679 for rust (yes, that's a common problem we do have in Europe)
• Replacing of hall sensors with rust
• Checking or repairing the wires in the lock, trunk lid
• Replacing of the 2 rear ventilations #64226909340, if required

This would take about 8-9 hours per car, if all the steps are required. I assume, that we as a team need about 5 hours per car with your personal support. Then we could renovate up to three Z4's a day.

This event has to be carefully planned, as all required spare parts must be present, as well as all required tools based on a list of mine.

A weather-protected location for several vehicles must be available, a power connection is required as well. Easy going, isn't it?

[nomoracin]

Here are all my other friggin' errors!

[RobbiZ4]

Originally Posted by nomoracin

Ok, pulled the error for the hardtop…found many other errors in doing so too. Uuuggghhhh

Also, is this how it's supposed to look from the inside while the hardtop is up?

A68C is a fault code of the hall sensor in the rear roof shell on the right.
In general, it indicates a broken wire in the roof harness.


Yes, it looks perfect.

[RobbiZ4]

You are candidate #2 !