Manual Roof Opening - Locked Convertible Top - E89

[MartyZ4]

My roof is in the closed position and locked with error code A68C, which is the hall sensor, passenger side, and almost certainly the wire. Is there a way to manually unlock the roof so I can lift roof shell 2? I've tried releasing the hydraulic pressure by turning the appropriate screw a half turn, but this doesn't seem to release the roof locks. Neither the key nor the console button release the locks, and instead the console button flashes red.

For context, the roof initially failed with the passenger microswitch error, and at that time it stopped while partially open, so I was able to manually move roof shell 2 to a position whereby I could replace (with much help and guidance from RobbiZ4!) the wiring for both the microswitch (which was broken) and the hall sensor (which was kinked and about to break). Obviously, I didn't do a very good job, since the hall sensor is now either shorting or broken.

I'm hoping I can perhaps jump a wire in the CTM in the trunk (which thankfully I can still access) to trick the CTM into thinking it's getting the correct signal from that hall sensor, but I'm not sure which pins I need to jump (ie which other wire would provide the correct voltage to release the lock, at least, or better, raise roof shell 2). There's some great advice here: https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=122363 but the link to the complete roof opening instructions no longer works.

Or is there a better way to unlock the roof and manually raise roof shell 2?

Thanks for any suggestions!

[javis20]

I sent you a message.

[MartyZ4]

Firstly, thanks so much for everyone's kind assistance - all greatly appreciated!

As a workaround, I had a spare, working hall sensor, which I was able to plug into the CTM in the trunk, into pins 3 (signal) and 16 (power), to fool the CTM into thinking it was getting a signal from the passenger side hall sensor. This allowed me to open the roof and effect repairs on the wiring, which had come loose from my prior repair. Note that once you make the repair, you need to disconnect the workaround at the CTM or the roof won't function (I repaired the wire only to test the roof and have it fail to open, which sent me into another fit of distress until it occurred to me to disconnect the hall sensor jumper).

I also learned (because I didn't listen to RobbiZ4 ) that you can use this tool: https://www.google.com/search?q=83300496597 to unlock the roof from the closed position, then release the hydraulic pressure with a half turn off the brass screws at the pump in trunk and raise the roof shell manually. I had to learn this because I ignored Robbi's advice not to add zip ties that weren't originally there, added a zip ties in a place I thought was clever which, after a few uses, caused enough friction to result in a burst hydraulic line. I managed to repair the hydraulic line with a coupler (https://cabriolethydraulics.com/hydr...pair-couplers/) and now, after replacing all the wiring in roof shell 2 with Chainflex, the roof works reliably, just like new. I am greatly relieved!

Note there's also this tool, in case your roof gets stuck in the trunk: https://www.google.com/search?q=83300496598 I mistakenly bought that first - my roof was locked in the closed position.