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      03-29-2019, 10:21 AM   #1
hapoom50
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Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement question

Has anyone replaced water pump/thermostat for e89 N54?
I've done e90 335i, but seems like Z4 has less clearance to get water pump out. Do I need to remove power steering? or remove radiator fan and replace water pump between radiator and sub frame?
Please let me know, thanks
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      03-29-2019, 09:48 PM   #2
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      03-30-2019, 11:49 AM   #3
hapoom50
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thx for the reply but couldn't find section how to get water pump out.
anyone done water pump and thermostat replacement for Z4 w/ N54?
any advise would be appreciated
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      03-31-2019, 02:13 PM   #4
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Here's a YT on the E85 that might give you some ideas as the cars aren't that different space-wise in that area. I've watched one on the E89 but can't find it right now.

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      04-03-2019, 07:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hapoom50 View Post
thx for the reply but couldn't find section how to get water pump out.
anyone done water pump and thermostat replacement for Z4 w/ N54?
any advise would be appreciated
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...drive/8IgJHhG1

Click all the links in the preliminary work section.
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      02-25-2020, 03:54 PM   #6
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Resurrecting this thread.

hapoom50 Did you ever get a chance to replace your water pump & thermostat? I am curious to know if you had to drop the steering rack to get more space to pull out the pump. Appreciate any tips/tricks you can share.
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      03-01-2020, 09:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xpuzzle View Post
Resurrecting this thread.

hapoom50 Did you ever get a chance to replace your water pump & thermostat? I am curious to know if you had to drop the steering rack to get more space to pull out the pump. Appreciate any tips/tricks you can share.
You can detach some hoses from below, but Both the tstat and pump come out from above because of the rack. It's a bitch. Remove fan, radiator, expansion tank, cross brace (runs in front of the engine), try to loosen clamps that are clocked in the worst locations, all in a very small space.
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      03-04-2020, 01:59 PM   #8
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Thanks Jparnes
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      03-10-2020, 03:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
You can detach some hoses from below, but Both the tstat and pump come out from above because of the rack. It's a bitch. Remove fan, radiator, expansion tank, cross brace (runs in front of the engine), try to loosen clamps that are clocked in the worst locations, all in a very small space.
I've read the procedure on newtis for this. (https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...drive/8IgJHhG1)

It doesn't look like a big deal from those instructions. I'm guessing there's more to it since you're the second person to tell me this is a hard job.
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      03-13-2020, 10:17 PM   #10
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TIS tells you what do to but not how to do it. I'm not saying you can't do it. I am saying that hose clamps are clocked in the worst positions, the space is super tight, and the pump is connected to a hard line from the turbo with maybe a 4" length of rubber hose between. Not much wiggle room there.
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      03-14-2020, 04:59 PM   #11
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Question: Is it advisable to be proactive or wait for failure before changing tstat and pump?

Car is 2011 35i 3/10 build date, 65,500 miles. Coolant changed every 3 yrs. Average 5-7Kmi a year.
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      03-14-2020, 05:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob20124 View Post
Question: Is it advisable to be proactive or wait for failure before changing tstat and pump?

Car is 2011 35i 3/10 build date, 65,500 miles. Coolant changed every 3 yrs. Average 5-7Kmi a year.
That's a tough call. Because these cars will go into limp mode if they overheat, you pretty much can't do any real damage to the engine. I take my car on very long trips and I don't want to get stranded. So for me preventive replacement makes sense. Plus I get to do the work and not pay big bucks at the shop. In general, replace the tstat, pump, rad, expansion tank, belt and tensioners somewhere between 60 and 90k. I did the tstat and pump at 70 and will do the rest next year when I'm due for a coolant flush.
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      03-14-2020, 07:04 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
That's a tough call. Because these cars will go into limp mode if they overheat, you pretty much can't do any real damage to the engine. I take my car on very long trips and I don't want to get stranded. So for me preventive replacement makes sense. Plus I get to do the work and not pay big bucks at the shop. In general, replace the tstat, pump, rad, expansion tank, belt and tensioners somewhere between 60 and 90k. I did the tstat and pump at 70 and will do the rest next year when I'm due for a coolant flush.

Thanks Jay, I'm due a coolant change next year. I'll try to do it at a DIY. Safe trip and enjoy Zfest if your going, we won't be able make it this year.
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