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      06-11-2022, 05:21 PM   #1
rwl
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Thinking about an E89

So, I just moved to Florida and planned on getting rid if my truck and picking up a G29, something a couple of years old. Was passing a dealership today and saw a pretty nice 2016. It’s priced pretty good, but I know next to nothing about the E89. Are there things to look out for? Reasons why I shouldn’t pull the trigger over the newer model? Thanks.
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      06-11-2022, 06:52 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by rwl View Post
So, I just moved to Florida and planned on getting rid if my truck and picking up a G29, something a couple of years old. Was passing a dealership today and saw a pretty nice 2016. It’s priced pretty good, but I know next to nothing about the E89. Are there things to look out for? Reasons why I shouldn’t pull the trigger over the newer model? Thanks.
I'd say it's really a question of personal preference. I've got a 2016 s28i and it's a very different drive from the G29 (I did test drive a M40i when they first came out.) The biggest difference is the technology. The E89 is very similar to the E90 3 series when it comes to the electronics. Personally, I like the fact that mine doesn't have iDrive or Nav. Less stuff to fail. I just want a top down fun drive. Some E89s have the Nav and iDrive, but support is starting to go down with age. None of them have any 'connected services' as they were 3G-based and AT&T shut down the 3G network last Feb.

The one thing I would definitely check is for any signs of water accumulation in the trunk. Specifically under the floor where the battery and hydraulic pump for the top is located. Any significant water intrusion there should be a red flag. As for the top, there are a number of threads here to get familiar with the issues of sensors and salmon relays. Not major issues, but stuff to be aware of.

Like any BMW, maintenance is the biggest factor in long-term reliability. I'd want to see the history of the car before I made a decision. If it's at a BMW dealer they should be able to pull the service history records done by BMW dealers. If it's been well cared for, it can be a good deal.

OTOH, a G29 is newer, has a soft top vs. hard top and all the latest electronics and might have a CPO warranty. It'll also be more expensive up front.

Drive them both and decide.

Gerry
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      06-11-2022, 07:24 PM   #3
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I've never driven a G29. But, if money is a non-issue and you're not looking for a 6 speed manual… go with the vehicle more likely to have a solid warranty, which I assume would be a CPO G29.
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      06-11-2022, 11:56 PM   #4
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The E89 is a GT. If you’re looking for a proper sportscar, you’ll have to spend thousands.

Which trim is it you saw?
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      06-12-2022, 06:15 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Marcoose View Post
The E89 is a GT. If you’re looking for a proper sportscar, you’ll have to spend thousands.

Which trim is it you saw?
It’s a 35is. Seemed to have plenty of pep. I didn’t notice my issues on the test drive, but the electronics are lagging by a bit as compared to my 21 X3 M40i.

I really like the idea of a hardtop instead of a soft top but newer electronics would be nice.
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      06-12-2022, 09:42 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwl View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcoose View Post
The E89 is a GT. If you’re looking for a proper sportscar, you’ll have to spend thousands.

Which trim is it you saw?
It’s a 35is. Seemed to have plenty of pep. I didn’t notice my issues on the test drive, but the electronics are lagging by a bit as compared to my 21 X3 M40i.

I really like the idea of a hardtop instead of a soft top but newer electronics would be nice.
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Originally Posted by rwl View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcoose View Post
The E89 is a GT. If you're looking for a proper sportscar, you'll have to spend thousands.

Which trim is it you saw?
It's a 35is. Seemed to have plenty of pep. I didn't notice my issues on the test drive, but the electronics are lagging by a bit as compared to my 21 X3 M40i.

I really like the idea of a hardtop instead of a soft top but newer electronics would be nice.
The 35is is a good performer but if the electronics are something you like you'll be happier with the G29.

The hardtop is nice but you sacrifice a lot of trunk space for it. And as others said the G29 will likely still have warranty.

Gerry
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      06-12-2022, 10:33 AM   #7
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I own a 2016 35is. I like it now, after some key mods. See sig. The stock setup was a very disappointing.

Boot is smaller than the E85. I find the iDrive rubbish, and the screen is impossible to read in the sun. TBH, I wish it didn’t have the iDrive. Oil changes are more frequent, like twice per annum. And I highly recommend an oil analysis once per annum.
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      06-12-2022, 12:52 PM   #8
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I'd like to chime in on this thread. The BMW E89, was in production from 2009 thru 2016, and was know as the Z4. The basic design is now getting a little "long in the tooth". Since the beginning of production, the E89 has experienced a good bit of problems, but many of them are brought on by owner neglect of watching how the car ages. One problem in particular is the leaking gasket at the oil filter container. This is known to leak, and the oil falls upon the serpentine belt, which weakens the belt and leads to a catastrophic belt failure. Some owner fail to maintain the convertible top. BMW does not have a specific maintenance schedule for the top system. But with so many moving joints, sensors, electric motor in the release from the windshield, and hydraulic motors and pump, and relay system, and basic inspection of wires, and hydraulic hoses. There is always a chance of pinched wires, and hoses. My Z4 is a 2009, and lube all the roof joints every year, and look at every wire and hoses for wear and tear. I don't run my top up and down as much as you would, since I'm in New Hampshire, a much cooler climate than Florida. Knowing the highway system in Florida, as I lived there a few years ago. Many Interstates, and high speed limits, and possibly over speed limit driving. I'd have the dealer change all the fluids, including break fluid. But, special attention to transmission fluid, with flush. Going from a "X" code BMW, to a Z4 you'll be giving up a lot of space to carry stuff, and people. The Z is a true roadster, with only 2 seats, and when the top is down the trunk space is reduced significantly. So you may want to look into a second vehicle. I don't have any experience with the E29 Z4. So, my only prejudice is the soft top. I do know you'd have to keep up the care of the soft top, due to heavy rains, and scorching heat, along with some salt spray. Watch for mildew growth, and treat immediately to save your top from early replacement. Witch ever you choose, E89 or E29, enjoy your new to you BMW Roadster.
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      06-12-2022, 04:11 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by surfwooder View Post
I'd like to chime in on this thread. The BMW E89, was in production from 2009 thru 2016, and was know as the Z4. The basic design is now getting a little "long in the tooth". Since the beginning of production, the E89 has experienced a good bit of problems, but many of them are brought on by owner neglect of watching how the car ages. One problem in particular is the leaking gasket at the oil filter container. This is known to leak, and the oil falls upon the serpentine belt, which weakens the belt and leads to a catastrophic belt failure. Some owner fail to maintain the convertible top. BMW does not have a specific maintenance schedule for the top system. But with so many moving joints, sensors, electric motor in the release from the windshield, and hydraulic motors and pump, and relay system, and basic inspection of wires, and hydraulic hoses. There is always a chance of pinched wires, and hoses. My Z4 is a 2009, and lube all the roof joints every year, and look at every wire and hoses for wear and tear. I don't run my top up and down as much as you would, since I'm in New Hampshire, a much cooler climate than Florida. Knowing the highway system in Florida, as I lived there a few years ago. Many Interstates, and high speed limits, and possibly over speed limit driving. I'd have the dealer change all the fluids, including break fluid. But, special attention to transmission fluid, with flush. Going from a "X" code BMW, to a Z4 you'll be giving up a lot of space to carry stuff, and people. The Z is a true roadster, with only 2 seats, and when the top is down the trunk space is reduced significantly. So you may want to look into a second vehicle. I don't have any experience with the E29 Z4. So, my only prejudice is the soft top. I do know you'd have to keep up the care of the soft top, due to heavy rains, and scorching heat, along with some salt spray. Watch for mildew growth, and treat immediately to save your top from early replacement. Witch ever you choose, E89 or E29, enjoy your new to you BMW Roadster.
I’d actually be trading in my Toyota Tundra truck for the Z4, we are keeping the X3. Space and passengers isn’t an issue, we have options. How much room is left in the trunk with the top down? Can you still fit a set of golf clubs in there?
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      06-12-2022, 05:46 PM   #10
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It will be tight, if not impossible, to put a golf bag in the boot even with the roof up. The clubs will fit alright. (Disclaimer, I don’t own golf gear.) It’s a surprisingly small boot.

If you visit SF in the near future, you’re welcome to take mine for a spin.
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      06-14-2022, 12:07 PM   #11
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I don't think a full bag of golf clubs, and bag would fit in the trunk. You might try putting the top down, and place the bag in the right seat. They will not blow out, but will be a quiet passenger.
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      06-14-2022, 08:25 PM   #12
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Not a chance you'll get a golf bag and clubs in the trunk of an E89. You could get the clubs in without the bag if it has the "ski bag" pass through to the passenger compartment. I've been able to get a couple carry-on size duffel bags in there (flexibility is key) but that's it.

When I had an E85, I could get one compact golf bag and clubs in the trunk. But in it, you had the full width of the trunk and only lost about 6 inches across the top front of the trunk area. In the E89, you lose about 25% off each side and 6-8 inches across the whole top.

Gerry
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      06-18-2022, 11:39 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Not a chance you'll get a golf bag and clubs in the trunk of an E89. You could get the clubs in without the bag if it has the "ski bag" pass through to the passenger compartment. I've been able to get a couple carry-on size duffel bags in there (flexibility is key) but that's it.

When I had an E85, I could get one compact golf bag and clubs in the trunk. But in it, you had the full width of the trunk and only lost about 6 inches across the top front of the trunk area. In the E89, you lose about 25% off each side and 6-8 inches across the whole top.

Gerry
In an E89, not true, depending on how it’s optioned. A golf bag fits easily with the top up, with plenty of luggage space. If you have the ski pass-thru, the golf bag can fit in the hole and you can still put the top down. I’ve done it.
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      06-23-2022, 06:46 PM   #14
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Same Situation But Different

I'm new to the Z4 game. I have a chance to buy a 2009 Z4 S35I. Saw it and drove it. It's in good shape but does have a warning code. See picture. Any thoughts what this is? Suggestions?
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      06-24-2022, 05:19 AM   #15
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That’s a fault in the electrically controlled damping system, either in the ECU that controls them or one or more of the damper units.

By now through age and mileage most 35is and 35i with adaptive damping will have one or more of the units either u/s or on their way out..

IMHO the most frost effective option is to buy some Bilstein B8s shocks and either MSport or Supplex springs…

On my 35is the front two were visibly shot with weeping externally..the rears looked fine but he damping was shot to pieces..

I’ve used B8s on my 20i MSport to goof effect, a buddy has just fine the same on his 30i and is very pleased..

On my 35is I went with Ohlins cause they are the best for street use, but not the cheapest..
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      06-24-2022, 08:26 AM   #16
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What was the cost for this type of service/repair?
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      06-24-2022, 12:12 PM   #17
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What was the cost for this type of service/repair?
800 per front, 500 per rear , 900 for the ECU..all USD

Usually if one is shot they are all pretty close..mine at 50k miles and 11 years old were all effectively gone..

50k-80k seems to be the average area for failures to occur..
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      06-24-2022, 03:22 PM   #18
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"800 per front" are you saying 800 for each shock ($1600 total for the whole front ) or 800 to fix the entire front?

I'm assuming it would be the same with the back.
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      06-24-2022, 03:45 PM   #19
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"800 per front" are you saying 800 for each shock ($1600 total for the whole front ) or 800 to fix the entire front?

I'm assuming it would be the same with the back.
It’s 800 per front shock..so that’s 800 for the left and 800 for the right..

So a full set all round is 2,600 USD….very few if any places can re-furb them..

So almost all folks go for an aftermarket alternatives..

Bilstein, Koni, K+W, Ohlins in more or less increasing costs..

With the benefit of perspective most people who express a preference would say even new these weren’t BMWs finest hour..
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      06-24-2022, 07:18 PM   #20
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Ok guys, it’s time for me to shit or get off the pot. The dealer called today and if I don’t want the car it’s going to auction on Monday. It’s a Dealer only auction, so it’s now or never on this car. I’ll be trading in a loaded 2017 Toyota Tundra which I assume will be a lot easier to unload. Does $42K seem legit for a 2016 35is with 37K? I need your help here. Thanks in advance?
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      06-24-2022, 08:54 PM   #21
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Mine is also 2016 35is, purchased in Nov 2020 from a dealer in SoCal for $38K. It had ~20K miles, nearly all packages, and even some warranty left. See pic below.

I bought right before the chip shortage, when people were still hurting with Covid, unemployment, etc. I think I got a decent deal. Car prices, especially used, have increased a lot since. $42K seems like a good deal to me.

If you need more information, please send a PM, and we’ll switch to phone.

Good luck!

Marc
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      06-24-2022, 11:44 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B21 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRCKG View Post
"800 per front" are you saying 800 for each shock ($1600 total for the whole front ) or 800 to fix the entire front?

I'm assuming it would be the same with the back.
It's 800 per front shock..so that's 800 for the left and 800 for the right..

So a full set all round is 2,600 USD….very few if any places can re-furb them..

So almost all folks go for an aftermarket alternatives..

Bilstein, Koni, K+W, Ohlins in more or less increasing costs..

With the benefit of perspective most people who express a preference would say even new these weren't BMWs finest hour..
Thank you so much for your detailed answer. ThIs is good stuff and very helpful. New to the car game.
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