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12-23-2022, 03:26 AM | #1 |
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Upgrade from 30i to 35i worth it?
I got a great deal on a 2010 30i e89 about a year ago in superb condition with only 60K miles and pretty much all the options for that time other than M-Sport package. Found the ride a bit harsh and wanted to improve handling, so upgraded the front control arms and installed Koni Golds (formerly FSD) and sway bar. Now rides very nicely and I enjoy driving it often, except I do lust for a bit more acceleration, especially when compared to the f36 Gran Coupe I picked up recently.
Been seeing a few tempting deals for loaded 2015/2016 35i/35is and wondering if it's worth trading up. The power will obviously be there, but I have reliability concerns in going from the bulletproof N52 to the notorious N54. The solid rep of the N52 was part of the appeal for me in picking this one up originally and it hasn't disappointed so far. I don't mind spending a few bucks on worthy upgrades, but hate the idea of throwing gobs of cash at a car just to keep it running. Is it worth the extra speed to take the risk on the less reliable engine? |
12-23-2022, 07:46 AM | #2 |
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I’m jinxing myself for saying this, I haven’t had any problems with the N54 yet. I change oil every 6 months, and the indy gives it a good visual inspection.
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12-23-2022, 10:58 AM | #3 |
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Ya, what the above poster said. The power bump is quite noticeable and that's why I got the 35i instead of the 30i, but didn't spring for the 35is because imho the value proposition gets lost there.
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The richest one percent of this country owns half our country's wealth, five trillion dollars. One third of that comes from hard work, two thirds comes from inheritance, interest on interest accumulating to widows and idiot sons and what I do, stock and real estate speculation...It's bullsh*t. I create nothing. I own. We make the rules, pal...Now you're not naive enough to think we're living in a democracy, are you buddy?
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12-23-2022, 11:12 AM | #4 |
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Drives: E89 Atacama Yellow 35is
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Scotland..God’s own country
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Whereas the N52 engined Z4s suffer from what could be described as irritating faults such as cracked plastics and leaking gaskets the N54 has veritable bombshells waiting to go off..if you condense down hundreds if not thousands of N54 issues the answer is not if but when.
Of course as with any bunch of statistics there are those who were / are fortunate …during their period of ownership they haven’t had any issues, in part because previous owners already suffered from / addressed those issues. My N20 powered E89 in 35,000 miles and 5 years never suffered any form of breakdown, having been re-mapped by the end it was over 300 BHP and 450nm torque the same as a stock 35i. My 35is I bought last year at 50k miles has had the following issues.. Both front adaptive shocks leaking, rear shocks and springs soft and damping failed. One misfire was tracked down to an index 12 injector mixed with index 9 injectors contrary to BMW service instruction. Coil 6 failed. Inlet ports were found to be partly carboned thanks to direct injection and oil recirculating. The water pump failed. Friends I know personally with 35i/35is have had those issues plus the usual of turbo waste gate rattle, failing / flooding injectors, oil seal turbo failure, cracked cam box covers, high pressure fuel pump failure, and the odd DCT failure. In a shop most of these are big ticket items to replace..one UK 35i has gone through £15k under an extended warranty in 3 years and less than 10k miles. I’ve never known an N52 powered car have any big ticket items even those past 125k miles and I know many Zeds with those engines in them. Power wise the N52 and N54 are chalk and cheese…the N52 has to be revved and gearbox stirred to make rapid progress..many articulate that’s the joy of a Zed. The N54 in any form , and the 35is and re-mapped N54s most of all have a low end, mid range punch that feels like someone has ignited a Saturn V booster rocket. They run out of revs easily so short shifting is the best option. Dynamically compared to the N52 and especially the N20 they feel and are like barges. Handling is ponderous and lacking surety…compounded that with age and a heavily front end loaded car with lots of weight in front of the front axle and it all tells you that in stock and especially tired form the engine exceeds the chassis by some margin. Of course depends on where and how you drive and what floats your boat. Having had the N20 and N54 I’d say that if I could relive the N54 purchase point I would have not gone ahead. However I did and I’ve done and are still doing a massive upgrade program to get things for me to an acceptable form.
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Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
Change history here… https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h1vabklgz...0List.pdf?dl=0 Build thread here… https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131886 |
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12-23-2022, 12:56 PM | #5 |
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You gotta pay to play, unfortunately. Risk involved with N54 reliability, but personally I think it's well worth it for the big increase in torque. I'm on my second 35i and (knock on wood) neither of them have had any major issues during my ownership.
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12-26-2022, 02:48 PM | #6 |
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I owned the E85 version for several years put 200k miles on it before trading up. I really like the N52 but I knew it was going to be a real disappointment on a car that’s 400 lbs heavier. Just too
Much mass for the little NA motor to haul around. Sure, there are now a number of things you can do to the N52 that will help. Shorter gears. MILF, headers or even a supercharger will spice things up. I was not eager to put that much effort into my daily. Best advice I can offer, If you are afraid of the costs just stay away from BMW. |
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01-02-2023, 02:38 AM | #7 |
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Thanks, that's really helpful. Handling ultimately matters more to me than power--which is why I'm driving BMW and not a muscle car. I already do significant suspension and steering tuning when I get a car, so having more issues of that kind to overcome isn't the right direction for me.
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01-02-2023, 02:41 AM | #8 |
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Well, I think there's a middle ground where we accept some additional cost that comes with a unique car/marque while attempting to not adopt a money pit. That's just being prudent.
Last edited by Zoomz; 01-02-2023 at 02:52 AM.. |
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01-02-2023, 02:47 AM | #9 |
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Thanks for the input, everyone. I've decided the 3.0 works well for me. I like the classic and solid nature of this engine/model and the significant work I've already put into improving the handling (which I'd probably end up having to repeat with another car). My tuned 440i scratches my occasional HP urge just fine, so I'll appreciate the Z for what it is. I'm also finding that with a few more simple mods and shifting mainly with the paddles, I can get plenty of kick out of the Z yet.
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01-02-2023, 03:44 AM | #10 | |
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Drives: E89 Atacama Yellow 35is
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Scotland..God’s own country
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Quote:
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Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
Change history here… https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h1vabklgz...0List.pdf?dl=0 Build thread here… https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131886 |
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