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      09-12-2022, 04:48 PM   #1
Mbin903
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Putting up on jack stands

I’ve got my 2011 35is up on jack stands to do an oil change.
I jacked up the passenger side first, and positioned the jack stands, and then did the drivers side. I didn’t really like the way the car was leaning with just one side up, and how scary it seemed trying to get the other side up at that angle. Is there not a middle jack point in the front and rear to avoid this? I looked under the front but all I saw was the plastic cover under there. It just seems like it would be easier than doing one side at a time.
And I’m guessing it’s going to be good to start the car and let it run to get warmed up before draining it correct?
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      09-12-2022, 08:44 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Mbin903 View Post
I’ve got my 2011 35is up on jack stands to do an oil change.
I jacked up the passenger side first, and positioned the jack stands, and then did the drivers side. I didn’t really like the way the car was leaning with just one side up, and how scary it seemed trying to get the other side up at that angle. Is there not a middle jack point in the front and rear to avoid this? I looked under the front but all I saw was the plastic cover under there. It just seems like it would be easier than doing one side at a time.
And I’m guessing it’s going to be good to start the car and let it run to get warmed up before draining it correct?
Yes, there are center jack points. Use the jack on it and set the jackstands at the 'regular' jack points. Use an adapter block or get stands that fit into the lift pockets. It's more stable and won't destroy the lift pockets (even if they are easy to replace.) Attached is a PDF showing the lift points. Don't jack at the diff cover!

Engine should be warm when you change the oil. A 5 or 10 minute drive will do fine. It'll take longer to warm up if it's just idling.

Gerry
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File Type: pdf Z4 Jacking.pdf (95.5 KB, 159 views)
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Last edited by GerryC; 09-12-2022 at 08:57 PM..
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      09-13-2022, 12:09 AM   #3
Mbin903
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Thank you so much Gerry. Is there something under the car that identifies the area in the front for jacking?
And if you don’t jack under the diff. , is there not a spot in the rear to get the whole rear at once?
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      09-13-2022, 07:20 AM   #4
bigendbob
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I use a kerb, blocks of wood drive up curb.
I can then crawl underneath car.
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      09-13-2022, 09:08 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbin903 View Post
Thank you so much Gerry. Is there something under the car that identifies the area in the front for jacking?
And if you don’t jack under the diff. , is there not a spot in the rear to get the whole rear at once?
On the front, there's a hard plastic trapezoid looking shape that sticks out past the plastic under trays. That piece is bolted to the subframe.

At the rear, I used the point where the two braces bolt (to the rear subframe I assume)
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      09-13-2022, 05:27 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mbin903 View Post
Thank you so much Gerry. Is there something under the car that identifies the area in the front for jacking?
And if you don’t jack under the diff. , is there not a spot in the rear to get the whole rear at once?
Look at the pictures in the PDF.

In the front is #1. In the center between the front wheels is a frame section that sticks out.

The diff is #3. As the note says, remove the heat shield. Look at the side view picture of the diff. Don't lift at the back edge on the cover. Lift in the center of the diff case.

The other rear option is #4. It's where the two tension struts are bolted to the frame. This is the easier option in the rear.

Gerry
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      09-14-2022, 01:10 AM   #7
Mbin903
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Scowlingtuna and Gerry

I located the rubber pad in the front. It’s basically inline with the front wheels.

And in the rear, I saw where the 2 metal strut braces meet in the rear below the diff.
Thank you
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      11-19-2022, 09:31 PM   #8
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Here are the jack points near the center of the car.
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