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03-29-2019, 10:21 AM | #1 |
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Water Pump and Thermostat Replacement question
Has anyone replaced water pump/thermostat for e89 N54?
I've done e90 335i, but seems like Z4 has less clearance to get water pump out. Do I need to remove power steering? or remove radiator fan and replace water pump between radiator and sub frame? Please let me know, thanks 2012 Z4 35is |
03-29-2019, 09:48 PM | #2 |
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Www.newtis.info
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03-30-2019, 11:49 AM | #3 |
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thx for the reply but couldn't find section how to get water pump out.
anyone done water pump and thermostat replacement for Z4 w/ N54? any advise would be appreciated |
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03-31-2019, 02:13 PM | #4 |
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Here's a YT on the E85 that might give you some ideas as the cars aren't that different space-wise in that area. I've watched one on the E89 but can't find it right now.
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04-03-2019, 07:59 AM | #5 | |
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Click all the links in the preliminary work section.
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2016 340i XDrive, EBII/black, 6 MT, M Sport, Track Handling, Cold Weather, Tech, Lighting, Driver Assistance Plus.
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02-25-2020, 03:54 PM | #6 |
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Resurrecting this thread.
hapoom50 Did you ever get a chance to replace your water pump & thermostat? I am curious to know if you had to drop the steering rack to get more space to pull out the pump. Appreciate any tips/tricks you can share. |
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03-01-2020, 09:04 PM | #7 |
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You can detach some hoses from below, but Both the tstat and pump come out from above because of the rack. It's a bitch. Remove fan, radiator, expansion tank, cross brace (runs in front of the engine), try to loosen clamps that are clocked in the worst locations, all in a very small space.
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2016 340i XDrive, EBII/black, 6 MT, M Sport, Track Handling, Cold Weather, Tech, Lighting, Driver Assistance Plus.
2012 Z4 35i, ED 2/24/2012, Melbourne Red Metallic, Black Leather, Carbon Trim, 6MT, M Sport, CW, PP, PS, NAV, CA. |
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03-10-2020, 03:12 AM | #9 | |
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It doesn't look like a big deal from those instructions. I'm guessing there's more to it since you're the second person to tell me this is a hard job. |
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03-13-2020, 10:17 PM | #10 |
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TIS tells you what do to but not how to do it. I'm not saying you can't do it. I am saying that hose clamps are clocked in the worst positions, the space is super tight, and the pump is connected to a hard line from the turbo with maybe a 4" length of rubber hose between. Not much wiggle room there.
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03-14-2020, 04:59 PM | #11 |
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Question: Is it advisable to be proactive or wait for failure before changing tstat and pump?
Car is 2011 35i 3/10 build date, 65,500 miles. Coolant changed every 3 yrs. Average 5-7Kmi a year.
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03-14-2020, 05:21 PM | #12 |
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That's a tough call. Because these cars will go into limp mode if they overheat, you pretty much can't do any real damage to the engine. I take my car on very long trips and I don't want to get stranded. So for me preventive replacement makes sense. Plus I get to do the work and not pay big bucks at the shop. In general, replace the tstat, pump, rad, expansion tank, belt and tensioners somewhere between 60 and 90k. I did the tstat and pump at 70 and will do the rest next year when I'm due for a coolant flush.
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03-14-2020, 07:04 PM | #13 | |
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Thanks Jay, I'm due a coolant change next year. I'll try to do it at a DIY. Safe trip and enjoy Zfest if your going, we won't be able make it this year.
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