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02-19-2024, 07:59 AM | #1 |
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New wheels/pictures of my Z4
There are a couple of pictures and some discussions on another thread that I posted when I was shopping for a Z4 but nothing specifically about the new wheels/tires. It's too cold for a hand wash, so be nice given the car was just spayed off at the carwash.
My car is a 2011 6sp 35i that just turned 60,000 miles. Below are my current modifications. Carbon fiber mirror caps Carbon fiber rear spoiler JB4 on map 2 Burger dual cone intake H&R springs Apex VS-5RS one piece forged wheels 19x9.5" +35mm offset (with a 3mm spacer) front 19x10.5" +45mm offset Rear Michelin PS4s tires 265/30R19 front 285/30R19 rear Camber Settings (Alignment pins removed from the stock top hats) -1.3 degrees front and -2.5 degrees rear I had to do some mods on the rear inner fender liners, but the steel fenders are stock and nothing had to be done in the front. There is currently no rubbing fully loaded with 2 grown men in the car or with the steering wheel turned full lock left and right.
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2011 BMW Z4 35i 6sp wh/rd
2017 BMW M4 Comp DCT blk/blk 2001 Porsche 911 Turbo 6sp blk/blk |
02-19-2024, 11:11 AM | #2 |
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Great stuff..I found my 275/30 19 on 10j 40mm on BMW 437Ms were just touching the inners on full droop…
Very pretty ..I like the look.. I’m running 1.7 camber front and rear.. I suspect you need more rear camber to squeeze those rears in..
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Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
Change history here… https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h1vabklgz...0List.pdf?dl=0 Build thread here… https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131886 |
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02-19-2024, 02:29 PM | #3 |
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I'm just maxing out the stock rear camber recommend range but you are correct, they wouldn't clear with less camber. I would add more in the front, but that's max until I get some camber plates. I'll get some coil-overs and camber plates as soon as I take the time to calculate my wheel rates and front/rear wheel rate percentage. You never know what your getting. Ground Control on my old E46 M3 had great balance. Bilstein PSS10's on my 911 turbo needed the rear springs replaced. It's easier to run the math and make sure they're in the ballpark before ordering/installing. Right now I'll definitely drop the front tire pressure to reduce understeer.
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02-19-2024, 02:33 PM | #4 |
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I'm considering removing the S-Drive 35i badging from the side and replacing the chrome Z4 trunk lid emblem with black Z4 badging.
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02-19-2024, 03:40 PM | #5 | |
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And did you have adaptive suspension ? Thanks.
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2016 35is, camber plates, KWV3, PS4S, xHP, MHD, LFB pedal, flat bottom wheel, red indicators, black headlamps
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02-19-2024, 07:09 PM | #6 |
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Removing these pins and lowering the car will allow you to get more negative camber.
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02-20-2024, 02:58 AM | #7 |
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Good move..I used the G29 Z4 logo in gloss black on mine..
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Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
Change history here… https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h1vabklgz...0List.pdf?dl=0 Build thread here… https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131886 |
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02-20-2024, 03:00 AM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
Change history here… https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h1vabklgz...0List.pdf?dl=0 Build thread here… https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131886 |
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02-22-2024, 12:07 PM | #9 |
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Honestly I wouldn't do that, it would stand out too much if you blacken out the Z4 emblem at the back. Its perfect now, I would've probably painted the spoiler white though.
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02-22-2024, 01:03 PM | #10 |
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That's why there's chocolate and vanilla. I left the spoiler and mirror caps exposed carbon to contrast all the white. I normally believe there should be a lot of chrome or no chrome and a lot of chrome should basically be 50's and 60'cars.
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02-22-2024, 01:24 PM | #11 |
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Tastefully done!
When I bought my car back in the day, I didn't pay any attn to the style of the wheels and got the crazily-busy 293 w its TWENTY spokes, ugh. I guess our choices sucked because the other popular alternative suffered from cracks. If I can make my car a summer-only vehicle, I'd probably use the 290 style wheels I got from my winter package.
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The richest one percent of this country owns half our country's wealth, five trillion dollars. One third of that comes from hard work, two thirds comes from inheritance, interest on interest accumulating to widows and idiot sons and what I do, stock and real estate speculation...It's bullsh*t. I create nothing. I own. We make the rules, pal...Now you're not naive enough to think we're living in a democracy, are you buddy?
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02-22-2024, 03:52 PM | #12 | |
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Your car looks fantastic though What kind of H&R springs did you have added? Any issues with rubbing? Thinking of adding sport springs to mine, but worrying about the stiffness over broken country roads and large speed bumps. I also wonder how its got the M bumpers with it being a 35i hmm |
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02-23-2024, 02:19 AM | #13 |
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MSport bumpers were an option on 35i …ie the 35i MSport..
For the geeks the 35i MSport rear diffuser is different to the 35is rear diffuser..even if they have the same MSport rear bumper..
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Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
Change history here… https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h1vabklgz...0List.pdf?dl=0 Build thread here… https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131886 |
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02-23-2024, 10:14 AM | #14 |
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I knew there would be a lot of questions about fitment, so I'm hoping these pictures will help. This is far from a "plug and play" fitment, so understand you will need to be willing to make changes, work with offsets, spacers and alignment. With a fitment this tight, don't assume that all Z4s are the same. I don't have any rubbing, but I have made room where needed.
This picture shows where the inner wheel lip aligned with the inner fender. The lower line is at ride height and the upper line is under compression (by this point, your shock is getting into the bump stop). You can assume the position with a reasonable droop. Full droop wasn't that important to me as I don't typically jump the car. With the car jacked up I don't any significant issues. Please note the stud/nut at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. I shorted the stud and the nut by about 1/3rd to give a little more clearance.
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02-23-2024, 10:26 AM | #15 |
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Next I had to slot the holes in the fender liner, so I could "cheat" the liner up on the inside and out toward the fender lip on the outside.
This pictures show how much you need to slot the holes.
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02-23-2024, 10:28 AM | #16 |
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After this, you need to cut the outer most lip off the plastic part of the fender liner. This is the lip that rests on top of the metal fender lip currently.
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02-23-2024, 10:31 AM | #17 |
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Finally you will need to heat the plastic portion of the outer fender liner, so the remaining plastic lip will now ride on top of the metal fender lip instead of beside it.
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02-23-2024, 10:33 AM | #18 |
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I hope this is helpful. There is no need to hammer/cut/roll any metal. Except for the slightly shorter studs, the car can be returned to stock condition with new rear fender liners and some nylon nuts.
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02-23-2024, 10:39 AM | #19 |
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Good write up..as you say there are some mods that are a bridge too far for some..but a detailed exposition is better than saying I made it fit or not!!
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Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
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02-23-2024, 10:41 AM | #20 | |
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02-23-2024, 10:58 AM | #21 |
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Thanks for the insight, I have a 35i so no adaptive suspension, Honestly I just want to have the car sit lower while not sacrificing comfort for a harsher ride.
My only fear is rubbing against the fender with 15mm spacers in the rear when I get those. |
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02-23-2024, 11:08 AM | #22 | |
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However, and if you're willing to help, I have an annoying clicking noise.
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2016 35is, camber plates, KWV3, PS4S, xHP, MHD, LFB pedal, flat bottom wheel, red indicators, black headlamps
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