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      11-26-2017, 05:38 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by fmorelli View Post
Just so I understand (as I've not done it myself), is the procedure to turn the motor for each cylinder until all four valves are closed? Guess I had not thought about it but makes sense.

Filippo
Exactly. The exhaust side doesn't matter of course so you are just looking to get the 2 intake ports closed. I use a handheld trigger to bump the starter.
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      10-28-2018, 12:11 AM   #24
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What lift or jack stands are you using?

Noquarter, I realize this thread is old. I was looking into the walnut blasting as my car has a problem with cold starts and from what I can diagnose it's likely fouled intakes. It's a 2009 z4 35i with 45k miles. Just replaced the plugs and it runs better but still starts rough when cold. Given the infrequent driving its received over the years and likely ethanol mix fuel to boot, it's probably in need of the intake cleanup and a throttle body cleanup. I probably should have he fuel filter replaced as well but will do that next year.

Anyway, that's a long way to say, your garage is gorgeous (love the floor!!) and I was curious what kind of jack of jack stands you're using on your car. Haven't found a solution I love yet.

Thanks!!
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      10-29-2018, 03:51 PM   #25
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Your fuel filter is an integrated unit inside the fuel tank and is not intended to be replaced. You can of course, just know that it is not a thing you just buy and swap out as a routine maintenance item.

You won't regret getting the intakes cleaned and the throttle body, but I am doubtful that will solve any cold start problems.

The mostly likely things that are contributing to your problem are leaking injector(s) and/or the HPFP.

The injectors can dribble fuel into the cylinder while that car sits causing it to be a very rough start. Afterwards, all the excess fuel is burned up so it continues to start just fine.

The HPFP on the other hand can lose pressure while it sits causing a delay in starting.

Being a 2009 model year, you may be under a reimbursement program from BMW - check it out: http://bmw-rp.com
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      10-30-2018, 05:37 PM   #26
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I've been starting my car in the cold and it sounds like there are some low volume mini explosion sounds coming from the exhaust, is this one of the causes, this buildup or something else?

How much would this service cost? There's no way to get around this or can I buy some fuel additives to address this prb? Thanks.
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      10-30-2018, 06:02 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
I've been starting my car in the cold and it sounds like there are some low volume mini explosion sounds coming from the exhaust, is this one of the causes, this buildup or something else?

How much would this service cost? There's no way to get around this or can I buy some fuel additives to address this prb? Thanks.
Is it only at startup or does it stay that way?

Either way, sounds like what you are describing is exhaust "burble" which many seek out. It can sound pretty good. It is mostly heard when letting off the gas.

To clean those intake ports there really is no short cut. Opening it up and mechanically cleaning them is required.
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      10-30-2018, 06:07 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accts4mjs View Post
Anyway, that's a long way to say, your garage is gorgeous (love the floor!!) and I was curious what kind of jack of jack stands you're using on your car. Haven't found a solution I love yet.

Thanks!!
This kind of floor has 2 problems to work around for jacks and jack stands.

The hand jacks with small wheels (such as the low profile ones) will get the wheels stuck sideways in the grooves and instead of rolling out of the way as the car is lowered, they will dig in and damage the tile. I just put the small wheels on a piece of wood when I need to use these jacks.

For jack stands, you need the kind with a flat base plate, not the triangular style with legs. Those legs usually have a pretty then metal angled leg that will cut into the tile.
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      10-31-2018, 06:06 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoQuarter View Post
Is it only at startup or does it stay that way?

Either way, sounds like what you are describing is exhaust "burble" which many seek out. It can sound pretty good. It is mostly heard when letting off the gas.

To clean those intake ports there really is no short cut. Opening it up and mechanically cleaning them is required.
Yup, just during startup, after 30 seconds or so it's gone.

What's the worst-case scenario if I delay walnut blasting? I assume this is not a service dealers do and I have to go to an indy?
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      10-31-2018, 06:20 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
Yup, just during startup, after 30 seconds or so it's gone.

What's the worst-case scenario if I delay walnut blasting? I assume this is not a service dealers do and I have to go to an indy?
The posts previous to this says dealers will do it if you ask and an indy is cheaper as always.

A rough idle is about the most you can expect from delaying the walnut blasting and a half-engine light/reduced power warning being a possibility if you floor the gas pedal and go all out being a slight possibility.

With your description, I bet real money on needing a new injector or 6.
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      11-17-2018, 01:54 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by accts4mjs View Post
Noquarter, I realize this thread is old. I was looking into the walnut blasting as my car has a problem with cold starts and from what I can diagnose it's likely fouled intakes. It's a 2009 z4 35i with 45k miles. Just replaced the plugs and it runs better but still starts rough when cold. Given the infrequent driving its received over the years and likely ethanol mix fuel to boot, it's probably in need of the intake cleanup and a throttle body cleanup. I probably should have he fuel filter replaced as well but will do that next year.

Anyway, that's a long way to say, your garage is gorgeous (love the floor!!) and I was curious what kind of jack of jack stands you're using on your car. Haven't found a solution I love yet.

Thanks!!
I had a similar problem at 65000 in my 2012. Finally after a long time it threw a misfire code on cyl 2. After weeding out the plugs and coils, let the car sit for an hour then pull the plug(s). If you smell gas on the plug tip, you have a leaky injector. When upgrading injectors you have to do the whole bank of 3 at a minimum. So in my case I changed injectors 1, 2 and 3. It's ok to have index 12 in one bank and a lower index in the other.
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      11-17-2018, 06:56 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
I had a similar problem at 65000 in my 2012. Finally after a long time it threw a misfire code on cyl 2. After weeding out the plugs and coils, let the car sit for an hour then pull the plug(s). If you smell gas on the plug tip, you have a leaky injector. When upgrading injectors you have to do the whole bank of 3 at a minimum. So in my case I changed injectors 1, 2 and 3. It's ok to have index 12 in one bank and a lower index in the other.
Pardon my ignorance, but how can you have a “bank” ( of cylinders?) on an I6 engine?
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      11-18-2018, 06:22 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paris1 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
I had a similar problem at 65000 in my 2012. Finally after a long time it threw a misfire code on cyl 2. After weeding out the plugs and coils, let the car sit for an hour then pull the plug(s). If you smell gas on the plug tip, you have a leaky injector. When upgrading injectors you have to do the whole bank of 3 at a minimum. So in my case I changed injectors 1, 2 and 3. It's ok to have index 12 in one bank and a lower index in the other.
Pardon my ignorance, but how can you have a “bank” ( of cylinders?) on an I6 engine?
It's mostly just a Logical bank rather physical.

The exhaust is split into two groups with two sets of O2 sensors and we only a have a pair of knock sensors. This helps the DME monitor and manage the engine functions.

Bank one being cylinders 1-3 and bank two being 4-6.
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      11-19-2018, 10:59 AM   #34
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And if one of the banks needs more/less fuel, all three injectors for that bank are adjusted equally. Therefore, those three injectors need to be as compatible as possible. There was a slight manufacturing/design change between the series of injectors so a bank needs to have all "newer design" or all "older design".


The DME doesn't know which series injector is installed just that is treats them the same per bank.
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