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      02-08-2016, 08:23 PM   #1
mrkoven
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is this how dual cone intake is suppose to fit??

just put on this bms dci, it does sound good..

however, i dont know if im crazy but throttle response feels more sluggish? i didnt buy it for gains, just sound, but is it possible to lose power due to heatsoak or something? is there a better way to position the cones?

not sure if it matters but i did a stage 1 mhd flash and muffler delete, otherwise its stock








Last edited by mrkoven; 02-08-2016 at 08:30 PM..
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      02-09-2016, 08:56 AM   #2
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Well too close but not exactly.
You gotta push the rear intake pipe harder and it will get into the hose deeply.
I had the same problem when I was installing them, and push it harder and played with the tube little bit and it was all good. Otherwise you may have 30FF code or any other CEL. Your intakes looks too close to each other.
Check my set up out, and you will know what I am talking about (I know my engine bay is so clean! )

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      02-09-2016, 09:00 AM   #3
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Also, you don't have to remove the air scoops, so they can still bring cold air.
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      02-09-2016, 01:40 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talhagursoy View Post
Also, you don't have to remove the air scoops, so they can still bring cold air.
Actually there is more "passive" airflow by removing it. More air will come through to the DCI



Your hood will channel the air flow.

Since DCI depend on passive air flow this will not be enough which was designed for active air flow not passive air flow.



Also do logs to see what is best. I am betting you will reduce dutycyle with it removed.
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      02-09-2016, 02:31 PM   #5
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I don't think air flow is a big deal for DCI since there is no cover, but cold air is a deal. If I remove the scoops I don't think I will get any cold air because there are too many ways for air to go. These are just thoughts nothing logged and tested, but will take a log soon
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      02-09-2016, 07:26 PM   #6
mrkoven
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thanks for that tip!! no CEL, but will try pushing the rear cone in more

interested in your results on the air scoop.. i figured it would be less restrictive off, but i have no idea
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      02-10-2016, 12:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by talhagursoy View Post
I don't think air flow is a big deal for DCI since there is no cover, but cold air is a deal. If I remove the scoops I don't think I will get any cold air because there are too many ways for air to go. These are just thoughts nothing logged and tested, but will take a log soon
To know this 100% run it and see what it does to your dutycyle before and after. The objective is to get less duty cycle at same boost target

The air pressure builds up in front of the radiator, then the compressed air will overflow in the direction where there is less friction which will be up and over into the engine and the DCI will capture that fresh pressurized ambient air while keeping the engine cool also.

The only way to know for a fact without theorizing and guessing is to test it. You should have less pwm with it off and increased wgdc with it on.

What does it mean ? Less wgdc means your turbo's are running more efficiently working less to produce the same amount of boost.

We already did the R&D on this





Below is after with stock intake ie CAI





Please look at the MPH on the car after each test. There is no ambient air getting to the DCI. The air inlets are no good for passive air flow. You would have to be over 100 mph for air pressure to increase for ambient air to get ot the DCI. This is what contributes to rasp on carscause at 150°f the wastegates are wide open. The lower the temps are pre turbo the more closed the wastegates are.

Last edited by BQTuning; 02-10-2016 at 01:01 AM..
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      02-22-2016, 07:23 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuraQ View Post


Sorry OT, but holy moly your engine oil temp is high!

EDIT: Disregard that... 210F = 100C, not 120C like I thought...

So according to your research, the conclusion is:

DCI + no air scoop > DCI + air scoop > OEM

Last edited by Asbjorn; 02-22-2016 at 07:29 AM..
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      02-23-2016, 12:55 AM   #9
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OEM + Drop-in filter is the best. My personal feeling with the N54 is that dual cone intakes mirror the OP's comments.

What the results show - at least what I interpret from them - is that with the stock CAI (ie OEM box) the intercooler has to do less work to cool the air charge and this is therefore more efficient.
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      02-23-2016, 06:42 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunzaro View Post
OEM + Drop-in filter is the best. My personal feeling with the N54 is that dual cone intakes mirror the OP's comments.

What the results show - at least what I interpret from them - is that with the stock CAI (ie OEM box) the intercooler has to do less work to cool the air charge and this is therefore more efficient.
I have dyno's pre/ post inlets using oem + Cobb drop in. Recently I upgraded to Afe Stage 2 Pro 5R and I can honestly say it made a big difference. The drop in filter just doesn't flow enough to take advantage of all my mods. Btw the Pro 5R comes with a heat shield that hooks up to the stock funnel.

I plan to test the component surface temps with a laser thermometer. If it makes sense I may wrap the heat shield in gold heat tape to help fight against heat radiating around the intake.
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      02-24-2016, 04:53 AM   #11
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I think on a full bolt-on (IC, INLETS, Exhaust etc) + aggressive tune on the N54 then of course aftermarket intakes are going to help. But on an otherwise stock car with a light tune then the stock airbox will be superior.

Happy to see proper numbers on both but I have spoken to ESS myself and they recommend STOCK airbox plus drop-in as the choice. COBB also has done some testing and they found the stock airbox with tune-only to be superior.
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      03-07-2016, 02:23 PM   #12
mrkoven
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talhagursoy thanks for your pic, i have fixed my intake placement and theyre not touching anymore :P it did help with my perceived throttle lag initially i think, sounds really good regardless
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      08-07-2016, 12:51 PM   #13
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I am trying to change my intake to the ECS carbon fibre one. Anyone know how to get the damn old airbox out. There are these three tabs with rubber on them which holds the box down. I am not too sure how to remove those tabs/screws.

Thanks,
Jake.
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      08-07-2016, 09:35 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jake169
I am trying to change my intake to the ECS carbon fibre one. Anyone know how to get the damn old airbox out. There are these three tabs with rubber on them which holds the box down. I am not too sure how to remove those tabs/screws.

Thanks,
Jake.
I am not sure if there is a nicer way, but basically you have to pull it really hard
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      08-08-2016, 10:39 AM   #15
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Thanks talhagursoy. You would think they could make it simpler by just putting screws or bolts..
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