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      01-08-2019, 05:26 PM   #1
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Top issues

Ok top gurus, looking for advice on where to start. The thing has been perfect on our 2009 3.0 and I regularly inspect it for kinks and fraying in the wiring harnesses. Sunday it suddenly stopped not wanting to retract at all and was giving me the yellow roof symbol like the partition wasn't in place. Checked and moved it multiple times to no avail. Tried it as I left for work Monday and it started retracting and then gives the red roof symbol and the red light above the retract button flashed. I noticed it was moving jerkily and hesitating at points. Decided to put it back up so I didn't have a stuck top and it went back in place smoothly as normal. Haven't noticed any fluid under the car or in the low spots inside the trunk. Any ideas?
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      01-08-2019, 08:26 PM   #2
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Run a code scan on it. You could have a damaged wire.
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      01-09-2019, 10:09 AM   #3
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OMG Read this

Greetings all,
I was just about to post something on this. I just got my car back from the shop after 31 days at BMW. Same model and year as OP. My top also stopped midway during retraction and then did not move and gave me a red error light and message: "Convertible top movement impaired". Took it to BMW (extended warranty in hand) and they initially diagnosed it to a bad hall sensor. Turns out that was a mis diagnosis and after more labor hours, they found a broken ground wire in the top overhead panel. After fighting with my extended warranty company for 2 weeks the repair (replacement and re positioning of the entire ground wire wire) was approved. I hope this helps! Seems our cars are prone to chaffing in these wires, so we should do our best to inspect them as much as possible. Also one final note. Apparently there is an "emergency mode" so you can operate the roof manually. I had no idea, and still dont, how this mode works. If anyone knows, it would be helpful in situations like this, as I had to have my car towed in.
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      01-09-2019, 02:53 PM   #4
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Airmarc,

Any chance you have pics of the offending wires or area where it occurred?
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      01-10-2019, 12:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airmarc View Post
Greetings all,
I was just about to post something on this. I just got my car back from the shop after 31 days at BMW. Same model and year as OP. My top also stopped midway during retraction and then did not move and gave me a red error light and message: "Convertible top movement impaired". Took it to BMW (extended warranty in hand) and they initially diagnosed it to a bad hall sensor. Turns out that was a mis diagnosis and after more labor hours, they found a broken ground wire in the top overhead panel. After fighting with my extended warranty company for 2 weeks the repair (replacement and re positioning of the entire ground wire wire) was approved. I hope this helps! Seems our cars are prone to chaffing in these wires, so we should do our best to inspect them as much as possible. Also one final note. Apparently there is an "emergency mode" so you can operate the roof manually. I had no idea, and still dont, how this mode works. If anyone knows, it would be helpful in situations like this, as I had to have my car towed in.
Who told you about this emergency mode? I have never heard about this. If it was the dealership, please find out how to access it and share.
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      01-10-2019, 01:53 PM   #6
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I just went through this. Your issues sound exactly like mine were. After miss diagnosing to a few haul sensors, it turned out to be a broken wire where the main hinges are. If you peal back the electrical tape you will likely find a wire or two has broken after being kinked from use over time.
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      01-14-2019, 08:14 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by jparnes1 View Post
Who told you about this emergency mode? I have never heard about this. If it was the dealership, please find out how to access it and share.
It is in the paperwork from the dealer. Unfortunately they never explained to me what that was. It was only reading the invoice later that i saw it. I did a quick search on emergency mode for BMWs and convertible tops and it looks like its a real thing on other models. Didnt find anything for the Z4. Sorry cant help further.
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      02-26-2019, 10:05 PM   #8
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Update

Finally got the car to an independent shop to get a diagnosis. It's throwing a code for pump overheat, so it looks like a pump replacement is in my near future. I've found a couple of reasonably priced new OEM pumps (if there is such a thing at $1800 for a pump) and plan to replace it myself, then take it to the local dealer for coding. Anyone here taken on pump replacement?
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      03-01-2019, 01:07 PM   #9
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The Z4 has an emergency mode but it just isn't practical for most people. You use some sort of long extension pole/handle that reaches up into each corner near the hinges and crank it open manually. But I think there is quite a bit of disconnecting things to get to that point.
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      03-16-2019, 10:45 PM   #10
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Update- New hydro units are almost non-existent for the E89 now and are nearly $3300 if you can find one. Price was quoted from several dealers and none could have one in less than 6 months. I found a place that specializes in rebuilding BMW top hydro units and actuators as well as those on many other makes. The E89 unit is $600 for a rebuild and is warrantied for 3 year AND doesn't have to be re-coded to work with the car when it's reinstalled.

www.tophydraulics.com
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      03-18-2019, 03:51 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddhaPilot View Post
Update- New hydro units are almost non-existent for the E89 now and are nearly $3300 if you can find one. Price was quoted from several dealers and none could have one in less than 6 months. I found a place that specializes in rebuilding BMW top hydro units and actuators as well as those on many other makes. The E89 unit is $600 for a rebuild and is warrantied for 3 year AND doesn't have to be re-coded to work with the car when it's reinstalled.

www.tophydraulics.com

Thanks for that link! Day before knee surgery, my 2009 top started with a hiccup , then completely dead with top down and rain moving in. I have a carport , but no garage. Took it to Local BMW (froze my ass off) and they said water in trunk fried the pump and control module. They wanted north of $5k to repair. They did the emergency top thing, said they broke the screws, so they will have to be replaced before the top functions again, but the top is up. They also scratched the bottom of panel 2 , as it looks like they were using pry bars on the bottom of the panel and it scratched the paint. Not noticeable unless you look, but still unprofessional. I wasnít thinking clearly from surgery drugs, or I would of told them to diagnose and fix the leak. But, looking for parts on my own, I Found a used hydro unit for $2k. This link sounds good, will save a ton of money, now I have to find a trusted local shop!
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      03-18-2019, 03:57 PM   #12
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I am so ecstatic. So glad I came to this forum. I talked to Rob at Top Hydraulics, and the turnaround time on that is 3-5 business for rebuild, then shipping! $600 for rebuild, $15 shipping! Might be the medication talking, but that just made my day!
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      03-18-2019, 05:59 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madscott View Post
I am so ecstatic. So glad I came to this forum. I talked to Rob at Top Hydraulics, and the turnaround time on that is 3-5 business for rebuild, then shipping! $600 for rebuild, $15 shipping! Might be the medication talking, but that just made my day!
Glad I was able to help someone with a similar issue! That's a really good turn around considering the website says up to 60 days. Mine is kind of the opposite. It stutters as its retracting, but runs fine when you put it back up. Independent shop said it's indicating pump overheat and that it was a water leak that probably caused it because the insulation around it was wet. Not even sure where to start as far replacing trunk seals because I've found moisture nowhere else in the trunk area.
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      03-28-2019, 03:16 PM   #14
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I didn’t start this thread, but Just an update . I pulled my hydro unit off myself, 6 days after major knee surgery, took 20 minutes. I shipped it to Top Hydraulics in Florence, Oregon on Monday priority mail it cost $49 from metro Atlanta. They received it Wednesday. I got a FedEx notification of return shipping label created today(Thursday), estimated delivery is Saturday. If all goes well , I should install it on Sunday, back in the game by Monday! Kudos to Top Hydraulics for such fast turnaround, I’ll gave an update after installation . $610 for rebuild and return shipping, $49 for shipping $659 Total vs $3300 quote I got on new or $2400 quote on used. Big shoutout and thanks to BuddhaPilot for the link to TopHydraulics.com and advice and help on removal!

Last edited by Madscott; 03-28-2019 at 05:42 PM..
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      03-29-2019, 07:10 PM   #15
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Well here’s my top saga....

I took my 2012 into the dealer because of what I perceived to be a sticky top latch. The roof was having issues with properly locking closed (the two front claw-like appendages). The roof was opening and closing just fine. Now, a week later, they are telling me there was water in the trunk and that’s what caused my roof motor to go bad.

I was a bit confused because my top has been opening and closing just fine until I dropped it off at the dealer. The dealer then tried to tell me that the reason the two claws are not engaging properly is because the motor in the trunk is going bad!!! That’s a big WTF for me because, my roof is still going up and down like a champ, just not locking closed and I know there’s a small motor in the roof that works those claws open and closed.

I do some research and see the entire top roof motor assembly and claws for less than $200. They are quoting me over $4,000 to replace the trunk motor and the seals that caused it to leak.

My contention is that just replacing the motor in the trunk still won’t fix my issue, and also, this is a known design flaw, and I feel BMW should do the right thing and fix the motors anyways. It’s a poor design that allows water to get to the motor.

I’ve told the dealer to just give me my car back and I will fix it myself. Now they are telling me to wait as they investigate further. I’ve been going back and forth with BMW all day... I’m thinking of taking their brand new X3 loaner to Vegas for the weekend.

Arggggghhh...
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      03-30-2019, 09:39 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post
Well here's my top saga....

I took my 2012 into the dealer because of what I perceived to be a sticky top latch. The roof was having issues with properly locking closed (the two front claw-like appendages). The roof was opening and closing just fine. Now, a week later, they are telling me there was water in the trunk and that's what caused my roof motor to go bad.

I was a bit confused because my top has been opening and closing just fine until I dropped it off at the dealer. The dealer then tried to tell me that the reason the two claws are not engaging properly is because the motor in the trunk is going bad!!! That's a big WTF for me because, my roof is still going up and down like a champ, just not locking closed and I know there's a small motor in the roof that works those claws open and closed.

I do some research and see the entire top roof motor assembly and claws for less than $200. They are quoting me over $4,000 to replace the trunk motor and the seals that caused it to leak.

My contention is that just replacing the motor in the trunk still won't fix my issue, and also, this is a known design flaw, and I feel BMW should do the right thing and fix the motors anyways. It's a poor design that allows water to get to the motor.

I've told the dealer to just give me my car back and I will fix it myself. Now they are telling me to wait as they investigate further. I've been going back and forth with BMW all day... I'm thinking of taking their brand new X3 loaner to Vegas for the weekend.

Arggggghhh...
The foam cradle was soaked when I pulled the hydro unit. I checked all my seals and everything still looks perfect. They're good and soft and I put Gummi Pflege on them every couple of months. I've run water everywhere around the trunk and base of the top where it could get in, but have yet to find a drop inside.
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      03-30-2019, 01:58 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mayhem View Post
Well hereís my top saga....

I took my 2012 into the dealer because of what I perceived to be a sticky top latch. The roof was having issues with properly locking closed (the two front claw-like appendages). The roof was opening and closing just fine. Now, a week later, they are telling me there was water in the trunk and thatís what caused my roof motor to go bad.

I was a bit confused because my top has been opening and closing just fine until I dropped it off at the dealer. The dealer then tried to tell me that the reason the two claws are not engaging properly is because the motor in the trunk is going bad!!! Thatís a big WTF for me because, my roof is still going up and down like a champ, just not locking closed and I know thereís a small motor in the roof that works those claws open and closed.

I do some research and see the entire top roof motor assembly and claws for less than $200. They are quoting me over $4,000 to replace the trunk motor and the seals that caused it to leak.

My contention is that just replacing the motor in the trunk still wonít fix my issue, and also, this is a known design flaw, and I feel BMW should do the right thing and fix the motors anyways. Itís a poor design that allows water to get to the motor.

Iíve told the dealer to just give me my car back and I will fix it myself. Now they are telling me to wait as they investigate further. Iíve been going back and forth with BMW all day... Iím thinking of taking their brand new X3 loaner to Vegas for the weekend.

Arggggghhh...
I would venture to say what you found for $200 is the motor to un latch the roof at the windshield. The one in the trunk is the hydraulic unit to actually open and close the retractable top . Your problems are like mine . My top worked fine, then it didnít. When I actually finally got it to move, it closed, put the pump was not strong enough to push the top the last inch or so onto the windshield so that it would latch, although it looked closed. just the opposite when putting it back down. The boot never closed completely
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      03-30-2019, 06:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Madscott View Post
I would venture to say what you found for $200 is the motor to un latch the roof at the windshield. The one in the trunk is the hydraulic unit to actually open and close the retractable top . Your problems are like mine . My top worked fine, then it didnít. When I actually finally got it to move, it closed, put the pump was not strong enough to push the top the last inch or so onto the windshield so that it would latch, although it looked closed. just the opposite when putting it back down. The boot never closed completely
Overall, the location of the hydraulic motor is a major design flaw. They should never have placed that motor in the lowest point in the trunk. Once I fix this issue, I am going to investigate installing some sort of drain so water canít pool down there again.
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      03-31-2019, 08:28 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoQuarter View Post
The Z4 has an emergency mode but it just isn't practical for most people. You use some sort of long extension pole/handle that reaches up into each corner near the hinges and crank it open manually. But I think there is quite a bit of disconnecting things to get to that point.
Can someone link a how to guide or a dealership document on this emergency mode? i live rather far from Bmw dealer and if needed i would like to know the procedure.

I have had an issue once before. I was rather sick that day and wasnt paying enough attention probably because of that. Came to the parking lot after a meeting and threw my bag to the trunk... pulled the tray down because i fancied a topless drive.. maybe it made me feel better. Any way i did not notice a Meguiars paste wax box laying on the side of the trunk where the labels say not to put luggage. That box was mostly black so did not stand out.

When lowering the roof it of course got in the way and my roof stopped..Had an error on the dash to check for blockages. found that box and removed it but still the roof would not move. Had the trunk part up in the air and roof halfway in the trunk in a big public parking lot like a fool.
Tried locking the car and moving the key far away from the car hoping it would shut everything down and the roof would reset itself.. Did not work. Still had an error message.
Cant disconnect the battery as its in the trunk under the stuck roof.
After an hour i had enough and called for a tow truck. Luckily it happened in the city where the main BMW dealer is located not where i live.

Towed my Z4 (still trunklid up in the air and roof stuck) through the city to the dealer. At the dealer when the tow truck driver had dropped the car back on its wheels i tried one last time if the roof would move. And it actually did. On the first time roof did not clamp in to the a pillar as the claps were wrong way round... already clamped up. Lowered my roof fully and had it come back up. This time it worked fine all closed up. Tried numerous times lowering and raising the roof to see if it had any problems. it did not. All was fine again. Guys at the Dealer were making jokes that my car got scared of them and started working again.

Anyway my roof has been good since that little adventure. 2 years+ or so.

Always check the sides of the trunk before lowering your roof!

If that had happened where i mostly drive and live it would have meant a 250km tow to the dealer on a highway with the roof halfway stuck.

Because i have experienced a problem like this i would love to know how to manually put up my roof even if it is difficult and not for the average user.

Last edited by KennyP; 03-31-2019 at 08:36 AM..
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      04-01-2019, 02:52 PM   #20
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Overall, the location of the hydraulic motor is a major design flaw. They should never have placed that motor in the lowest point in the trunk. Once I fix this issue, I am going to investigate installing some sort of drain so water canít pool down there again.
I know we have been messaging, but I am putting this on the forum. I installed my pump Sunday. It took maybe 25-30 minutes. There was a little hydraulic cleanup , not much . I had a plastic motel clothes bag that fit about perfect around the foam cradle, so I put the bag around it, now I have a 4Ē layer of moisture protection, but I am a little worried about heat dissipation during operation of the pump. I will see how that goes. I have an appointment Wednesday with BMW South Atlanta to do the water ingress test and put the screws back from the emergency top procedure, $330 for the test and unknown for the repair. Labor price for the screws. $165/hr. , so another $500 . But Inshould be good to go after that. I will let you know if the pump fixed my problem about Thursday or Friday!
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      04-01-2019, 11:22 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddhaPilot View Post
The foam cradle was soaked when I pulled the hydro unit. I checked all my seals and everything still looks perfect. They're good and soft and I put Gummi Pflege on them every couple of months. I've run water everywhere around the trunk and base of the top where it could get in, but have yet to find a drop inside.
Iím a bit dubious of how water gets down there in the first place. I keep a roll of paper towels, some rags and a jacket in the trunk, yet somehow, all of that stuff is dry, but underneath all that, the motor is all wet. Something isnít right.
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      04-05-2019, 11:27 PM   #22
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Ok, so my top is functional. But I have a problem. A recap. I took the car to Global BMW in Atlanta They put the top up using emergency mode. They told me the pump was bad . Removed pump myself, sent to Top Hydraulics for rebuild , got it back and installed. When Global put the top up manually, they left screws out of top, and the Tech told me any competent mechanic should be able to replace them . So I took the car to BMW South Atlanta to have the screws put in , and water leak testing. That dealer was closer than Global to my house. The Tech at BMW SOUTH told me I needed a new top, because the screws are a one time use only, and canít be replaced. He also did some trouble shooting and told me the 2 salmon colored relays on the side of the pump are bad, $42 for the two and the top will be moving again, but the individual panels move around when you drive , so they are not tight. As long as the top is locked in, it shouldnít be a safety issue, but itís noisy in the car and on bumps, you can hear the roof panels jostle around a little. He also wouldnít replace the relays, he told me Imwould have to do it myself because the dealer wouldnít be responsible for damaging the motor or roof.
So I called Global BMW, and they understand the roof wasnít tight, but it should be ok. Global ordered the bolts, and I will take it Monday for that and the leak test. So I guess Monday maybe?? At least the hydro unit and my install seems good to go. If you have water problems, and send the pump,out for rebuild. Replace the two salmon colored relays on the side of the unit. . About $40.

Also, donít take a car to BMW South Atlanta, they will keep the car for 2 days , put 35 miles on it , literally do nothing you ask them to do, and charge $165/ hr for doing it!
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