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      07-08-2022, 09:29 AM   #1
Zed4USA
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Replacing Front Suspension Struts

Hello Friends,

I have a 2014 sDrive28i Automatic with the Sport Package.

My front suspension spring struts are leaking oil after 17k miles. Due to safety, performance, and potential vehicle damage concerns - I'm going to get them replaced. The catch is that they are the electronically controlled Adaptive M Suspension spring struts. I really like the "comfort" mode for the city and the "sport" mode for the highway - so I'm not willing to switch to the non-adaptive spring struts.

I believe the correct parts are: BMW 37-11-6-792-892 and BMW 37-11-6-792-891.

When my dealership service dept flagged the problem, I believe they said something like, "you should really replace the springs when you replace the struts". My understanding is that unless the springs are broken, they will typically last 50k miles. So, I don't plan on replacing the springs yet - unless you folks think better of it.

Dealership quoted $3,500 soup-to-nuts (that obviously includes labor and probably includes spring replacement). Looks like the adaptive spring struts parts are $700 each. I'm considering replacing them myself because I like working on the car and it'll save a bunch of money - unless you folks think better of it.

Other than the wire for the electronic control, the spring struts looks identical to the non-electronic versions. Are there any good e89 video tutorials that you would recommend for replacing the front suspension spring struts (either adaptive or not)?

Also, what else should I know about doing this?

Thank you for your help.
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      07-08-2022, 09:52 AM   #2
B21
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The fronts are a relatively simple job…IMHO given mileage spring replacement would be a waste of time and money unless there are obvious issues on inspection.

No electronic coding required on a swap…

Check the top mountings (rubber parts) as they can perish..
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      07-08-2022, 05:15 PM   #3
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Following video is not for a e89 z4 but it is very very similar to the e92 and its one of the most clear and easy to follow installs.



Jump to 9 minute mark for the front struts.
You probably don't have to remove the rotors or the fender liner as they do here but definitely the calipers.

The video doesn't have the EDC module but just follow the wiring to where you need to remove it.


Some decent written instructions here but unless you're familiar with it, may not make much sense.
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=117994

You don't need to replace the springs but if you want to reuse them you'll need a spring compresser and electric impact wrench.
Overall, while it can be done individually, it'll help tremendously if you have someone assist you.

One tip, use a sharpie to mark the camber bolts on the lower control arms before moving so when you reinstall you can get the alignment back to what it was...somewhat.
You'll need an alignment afterwards regardless.


I think the adaptive suspension is closer to 900 each. I would recommend you check an indy shop that does a lot of BMWs and get another quote I'd think 2500 out the door would reasonable....it should only be like 250-400 in labor for the install and another 100-200 for alignment which is usually included.

Good luck.
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      07-10-2022, 03:28 PM   #4
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Here is my shopping list so far.

BMW parts:
• Strut - BMW (37-11-6-792-892)
• Strut - BMW (37-11-6-792-891)
• 2006-2016 BMW Top Nut Cap - BMW (31-30-6-774-021) (qty 2)
• 1988-2016 BMW Suspension Shock / Strut Mount Gasket - BMW (31-33-1-110-196) (qty 2)
• Additional Shock Absorber F 313545 - BMW (31-33-6-789-202) (qty 2)
• Protection Tube 331060 - BMW (31-33-1-094-749) (qty 2)
• 2006-2016 BMW Upper Plate Pad - BMW (31-33-6-767-500) (qty 2)
(~$1,400 including shipping from bmwpartsnow.com)

I'm going to replace the little inexpensive things like the rubber, thanks for that suggestion B21.

Other:
• 1/2 in. Drive Strut Spring Compressor set of 2
• 1/2 in. Drive Electric Impact Wrench
• 4-pack of hockey pucks / jack pads

The camber bolt sharpie idea, the impact wrench, and spring compressor - are good ideas, thanks ray7792.

I found these videos, which kind of show me what is involved:




Can anyone spot any problems with my list? Or does anyone have other tips for me?
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      07-23-2022, 08:10 PM   #5
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So, I dive in tomorrow or the day after. Does anyone have any last minute tips on DIY replacement of the front struts? I'd like to check myself - before I wreck myself.
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      07-25-2022, 05:31 PM   #6
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So…

The front axle was jacked up, and the driver's side wheel was off - and I was looking around at all of the things, but they looked significantly different than any of the videos that I watched. When I started to line up my wrench to remove the first nut, the other side of the bolt had a rounded edge - with nothing for my other wrench to grab on to.

I was already feeling a little light-headed from the nerves and the 100˚F heat with high humidity, so I made the decision to abort before I did any damage. I guess I'll bring all of my parts to a dealer or bmw repair shop (kinda far away) and have them put the new struts in.
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      08-19-2022, 03:34 PM   #7
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How did your strut situation end up? I'll be looking at mine on my 2009 Z4 before Winter sets in. My Z has active suspension. I wonder how new struts will change the active suspension feel, in Sport mode.
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      09-01-2022, 12:57 AM   #8
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Not OP but if anyone is curious, I installed my coilovers last weekend and it went alright.

The front struts weren't too bad, I was fortunate that none of my bolts were rusted or seized so everything came out pretty easily. Had to use spring compressors to compress enough so that the entire strut assembly can be taken out of the car without unbolting anything besides the swaybar endlink and collar thingy. Also having the strut spreader socket tool is very helpful to spread the collar thing so that the strut can come out.

The EDC connector plug is in the engine bay, right next the strut housing, its like clipped upside down so you can't see it.


The rears were a pain in the ass because you have to remove like most of the trunk trim lining to access the rear strut tops. But otherwise it's like 2 bolts to undo, the lower strut mount bolt and camber bolt. With some leverage and brute force, the springs will pop out. The EDC connector plug for the rear is right around where the vacuum hose is for the exhaust flap.


Local shop that i trust quoted me 1500 for the install, honestly if it was 1000 I would've taken it to them instead. I'm not sure if its worth the trouble, especially doing the height adjustments, it is extremely annoying....
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