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      08-13-2019, 05:14 PM   #89
RobbiZ4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanhoag View Post
Just thinking back to my experience earlier. Any idea why I was able to get the top to "un-freeze" with the key fob but not the center console buttons?

Would the SmartTop module bypass some system that was preventing the center console buttons from making the top function?

I would have been SOL without the key fob!
I'm not sure about it.
In general, the CTM has some kind of memory regarding faults. Then it will block further activites for the next 1 or even 10 minutes, depending on the issue.
Normally the roof modules are only simulating the two buttons, that means, putting the respective wire to ground the way you do it manually.
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      08-14-2019, 10:25 AM   #90
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Makes sense! Checked the relays. Both 2018.
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      08-14-2019, 04:07 PM   #91
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RobbiZ4 Posting another video here to get your thoughts.

The same problem occurs... but this time, before the console light goes from green to red, I lift up on the top with my hand. It moves a little and I let go... but it starts to fall back down... so I lift up again for longer and it then retracts fully.

Do you still suspect the issue is the microswitches?

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      08-14-2019, 05:08 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanhoag View Post
RobbiZ4 Posting another video here to get your thoughts.

The same problem occurs... but this time, before the console light goes from green to red, I lift up on the top with my hand. It moves a little and I let go... but it starts to fall back down... so I lift up again for longer and it then retracts fully.

Do you still suspect the issue is the microswitches?
No.

Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-16-2019 at 08:07 AM..
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      08-14-2019, 05:17 PM   #93
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Will take a look! What do you mean by "messing screws" and "out of messing"? Not familiar with this term/expression.
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      08-14-2019, 05:29 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanhoag View Post
Will take a look! What do you mean by "messing screws" and "out of messing"? Not familiar with this term/expression.
Please apologize! There was a mixup of typos as well as the wrong word for the material of these screws. Got it already updated.

"Messing" ist the German word for this material, "brass" seems to be the material name in English. I just wanted to say, these screws are not made of steel - be cautious.
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      08-14-2019, 05:35 PM   #95
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Just tried to tighten them. They were already snug. Didn't budge with some pressure.

What ended up being the issue with the roof that wouldn't go up?

Could it simply be an issue of low hydraulic fluid?

To a simpleton like me it seems like an issue of not being able to generate enough pressure or tension to hoist the weight of the top components.
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      08-14-2019, 05:40 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanhoag View Post
Just tried to tighten them. They were already snug. Didn't budge with some pressure.

What ended up being the issue with the roof that wouldn't go up?

Could it simply be an issue of low hydraulic fluid?
To a simpleton like me it seems like an issue of not being able to generate enough pressure or tension to hoist the weight of the top components.
The hydraulic fluid should be between min and max level. I have never seen a loss of hydraulic fluid in the past. In general, don't fill in more then up to the max level. The required hydraulic oil quality is "ZH-M" or "ZHM". Expensive from BMW (100€/liter), much cheaper from Mercedes (16€/l), the best price on eBay (~8€/l).

After we tightened these 2 screws the required pressure was back and the roof worked like intended.

Yes, you are correct regarding the opening process. But if the pump would be too weak, it never should be able to lift the package out of the trunc. Weird.
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      08-14-2019, 05:50 PM   #97
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Did you ever check the pumps environment for water? Can't remember that we discussed it before.
That could be the source of a week or destroyed hydraulic pump. As it's still working, it's not destroyed.

Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-16-2019 at 08:09 AM..
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      08-14-2019, 05:53 PM   #98
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Oh boy. If you're stumped, that's discouraging!
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      08-14-2019, 05:58 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanhoag View Post
Oh boy. If you're stumped, that's discouraging!
Just have a look at it. And try to touch below the pump, if it's moist. The foam sucks water if there is any in the trunc.
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      08-14-2019, 06:24 PM   #100
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In this former post you already mentioned this delayed or stopped opening process as well as the condition of the pump.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanhoag View Post
I have developed an issue recently where sometimes my top needs a little help to complete the opening process. The glass stacks on top of the roof and then the roof lifts slightly and stops. I push up on it a little from inside and it starts going again and completes the rest of the process without issue.

Sometimes the top opens fine without my help. Sometimes the roof opens a few inches and I push it... sometimes it barely opens at all (but unlocks) and I push it.

Except for the initial hang up, the rest of the process seems to move at normal speed, or at least the same speed as it always has. Have never had any issue with the top closing.

Would appreciate any input. Hydraulic cables that I can see appear intact and without evidence of wear. No hydraulic fluid leaking. Pump in the trunk appears to be dry and in good condition cosmetically (no corrosion, etc).

Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-15-2019 at 12:18 AM..
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      08-14-2019, 07:37 PM   #101
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Yeah. I stand by my statements in that older post. All visible components appear to be in good condition. We'll see what the independent shop says tomorrow. Crossing my fingers!
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      08-15-2019, 12:19 AM   #102
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This is definitely neither a microswitch issue as stated by me earlier, nor a broken wire topic.

Did you check the pumps condition on the floor, aka did you take it out of the foam an had a look at the unserside? I've seen a pump that looked pretty good on top, but taken out of the foam, it was corroded. The motor of the pump can be openen without any risk by opening the two small screws on the right (in the first pumps picure above).

There is a lack of hydraulic pressure in the system. If the reservoir of the hydraulic pump is still between min and max, there is also no loss of hydraulic fluid in the system That means, none of the 2x6 hydraulic hoses is broken anywhere.

There are 3 reasons for weak hydraulic pressure:
- the two screws on the pump I have explained earlier. Same reason as on my video of the car, that couldn't lift the roof package out of the trunc
- hydraulic cylinders get weakened over time
- the hydraulic pump has weekend and requires a refurbish

At this point I can't recommend anything without touching the car.
Maybe that Klaus Witte from TopHydraulics can support you, if you present him the last video.

Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-15-2019 at 12:27 AM..
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      09-10-2020, 01:31 PM   #103
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Hey guys since all the roof gurus are on this thread I would kindly request some help.

Cars is sdrive35 2010. The roof always comes off crooked coming down or going up followed by a red light on the dash.

I have replaced both hydraulic cylinders as well as the pump itself but to no positive result.

Here are some videos that show what i am talking about. I am all out of ideas.....





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      09-10-2020, 01:33 PM   #104
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As mentioned in the video I can take the top down this way as well as pull it back up the same way.
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      09-10-2020, 10:16 PM   #105
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For all of us trying to diagnose and fix different top issues.... what is the cheapest code reader out there that will report things like microswitches, hall switches, etc?

I have a few basic code readers that show no codes, even though the red dash light comes on.

There are Autel and Snap-on code readers that will show top codes, but those cost many hundreds or thousands of dollars.
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      09-13-2020, 01:34 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahad5058 View Post
As mentioned in the video I can take the top down this way as well as pull it back up the same way.
do you get any fault codes after this happens?
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      09-13-2020, 01:40 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanhoag View Post
For all of us trying to diagnose and fix different top issues.... what is the cheapest code reader out there that will report things like microswitches, hall switches, etc?

I have a few basic code readers that show no codes, even though the red dash light comes on.

There are Autel and Snap-on code readers that will show top codes, but those cost many hundreds or thousands of dollars.
if you have a Windows laptop (or a Mac w/ bootcamp), you can install standard BMW software for free from Bimmer Geeks, check the Downloads section

alse get a proper cable from them for $50

let me know if you're interested in helping to set up the sw (https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...LmyGSW8p7tnJAC)
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      09-13-2020, 09:46 AM   #108
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Thanks for the suggestion. Does the software support e89? I assume it must since you're suggesting it. But I feel like e89 gets left out a lot.
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      09-13-2020, 01:47 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tintoverano View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ahad5058 View Post
As mentioned in the video I can take the top down this way as well as pull it back up the same way.
do you get any fault codes after this happens?
None that Carly can pickup.
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      09-13-2020, 08:19 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanhoag View Post
Thanks for the suggestion. Does the software support e89? I assume it must since you're suggesting it. But I feel like e89 gets left out a lot.
Yes
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