Newbie.....to this forum any way!

[roadracer516]

Wanted to say hello! Long time BMW owner. Wife and I just bought a 2013 Z4 3.5i, 48k miles, no accident and very good condition! We are excited for Spring and Summer, will be pretty much a garage queen in the winter here in Utah.

Already coded the cool stuff with Bimmercode and bought a windscreen since that was not with this car. I love light modding, let me know what you like and what to consider? CHEERS

[Marcoose]

Nitro. You must have nitro. LOL

Welcome to the forum.

[MRCW]

Nice! I picked up a 2013 35i with 21k miles this past August... get to drive it year round here in Florida. I did a tune new aluminum charge pipe and single stack FMIC... also added front and rear cameras...

[roadracer516]

Originally Posted by MRCW

Nice! I picked up a 2013 35i with 21k miles this past August... get to drive it year round here in Florida. I did a tune new aluminum charge pipe and single stack FMIC... also added front and rear cameras...

Thanks! Can you tell me your camera setups, definitely need to do atleast a rear backup camera.

[surfwooder]

Since purchase have you changed any of the fluids? Change the break fluid since it will draw moisture from the air. That moisture will settle in the lowest points of the system, like the calipers, and rust the cylinders. I would change the transmission fluid since you don't know exactly how the has been driven. Lube all the top joints, and check the door seals, trunk seals, and treat all the top seals with Gummie Pflege. Look closely under the trunk bottom, left side compartment. You will see the roofs hydraulic unit, check this space any traces of water. Look on the hydraulic unit, you'll see two salmon colored relays. These are important for top operation, change these relays. If one or the other fail you will be stuck with a half open top. When the top is down you have no access to the trunk. When operating the top, either up or down listen for any squeeks, or grinding noises, and watch for smooth operation. Look closely along the inner roof line headliner for any oil leaks type stains. Also, check along the inside of the top wiring cables for oil stains. The tops hydraulic lines are known to pinch and leak. This is a expensive fix at a dealer. Look for any chafing along the cable runs. Chafing could lead to a broken wire, and a real headache to find and repair. Keep in mind there is very little support available to the DIY people, since Congress has allowed all the "Right to repair" laws to expire in 2008. There is no public manual for the E89. Over the Winter, keep your car on a battery tender to keep the battery charged up. Low batteries can give you a headache, and plenty of error codes.

[B21]

Welcome..car looks FAB...although maybe official technical documents are restricted there is access to NewTIS for all technical matters by invite and there are download-able full workshop manuals for E89 35i..

If you want to be led astray I can offer many options-

[roadracer516]

Originally Posted by surfwooder

Since purchase have you changed any of the fluids? Change the break fluid since it will draw moisture from the air. That moisture will settle in the lowest points of the system, like the calipers, and rust the cylinders. I would change the transmission fluid since you don't know exactly how the has been driven. Lube all the top joints, and check the door seals, trunk seals, and treat all the top seals with Gummie Pflege. Look closely under the trunk bottom, left side compartment. You will see the roofs hydraulic unit, check this space any traces of water. Look on the hydraulic unit, you'll see two salmon colored relays. These are important for top operation, change these relays. If one or the other fail you will be stuck with a half open top. When the top is down you have no access to the trunk. When operating the top, either up or down listen for any squeeks, or grinding noises, and watch for smooth operation. Look closely along the inner roof line headliner for any oil leaks type stains. Also, check along the inside of the top wiring cables for oil stains. The tops hydraulic lines are known to pinch and leak. This is a expensive fix at a dealer. Look for any chafing along the cable runs. Chafing could lead to a broken wire, and a real headache to find and repair. Keep in mind there is very little support available to the DIY people, since Congress has allowed all the "Right to repair" laws to expire in 2008. There is no public manual for the E89. Over the Winter, keep your car on a battery tender to keep the battery charged up. Low batteries can give you a headache, and plenty of error codes.

Thank you so much for spending the time to write that out for me! Already on a battery tender and I have the service records for the vehicle as it was always serviced at a BMW dealer. I have not looked closely at service, but will and take the advice you supplied. Thanks again!

[airwalk776]

Originally Posted by surfwooder

Since purchase have you changed any of the fluids? Change the break fluid since it will draw moisture from the air. That moisture will settle in the lowest points of the system, like the calipers, and rust the cylinders. I would change the transmission fluid since you don't know exactly how the has been driven. Lube all the top joints, and check the door seals, trunk seals, and treat all the top seals with Gummie Pflege. Look closely under the trunk bottom, left side compartment. You will see the roofs hydraulic unit, check this space any traces of water. Look on the hydraulic unit, you'll see two salmon colored relays. These are important for top operation, change these relays. If one or the other fail you will be stuck with a half open top. When the top is down you have no access to the trunk. When operating the top, either up or down listen for any squeeks, or grinding noises, and watch for smooth operation. Look closely along the inner roof line headliner for any oil leaks type stains. Also, check along the inside of the top wiring cables for oil stains. The tops hydraulic lines are known to pinch and leak. This is a expensive fix at a dealer. Look for any chafing along the cable runs. Chafing could lead to a broken wire, and a real headache to find and repair. Keep in mind there is very little support available to the DIY people, since Congress has allowed all the "Right to repair" laws to expire in 2008. There is no public manual for the E89. Over the Winter, keep your car on a battery tender to keep the battery charged up. Low batteries can give you a headache, and plenty of error codes.

This is some good advice to a fellow Z4 owner! great job.

[airwalk776]

After you do all the maintenance items, one of the things/mods I love the most is the MMI module, will give you the ability to retain all your stock screen and navigations but adds CarPlay and Android Auto.

Here is a list of mods I have done to my car to give you some ideas.
Mod List
-New floormats and small interior pieces to make the interior 100%
-Stubby antenna
-VRSF 3" Downpipes (and gaskets)
-VRSF Dual Cone Intakes
-VRSF Charge pipe upgrade (and gasket)
-VRSF 2" Inlets
-VRSF 7.5" Stepped Intercooler
-Burger Tuning Sport Oil Cooler Valve
-Red Thermostat Lid & Oil cap
-MHD Stage 2+ Tune
-Apex ARC-8 Wheels
-Continental DWS06 Plus Front 235/40/18
Rear 265/35/18
-PCV Valve Upgrade
-Genuine Black M-Sport Kidney Grills
-IND Distribution Painted Side Markers
-WAKAA CARPLAY MMI and HDMI Input
-Backup Camera with Park Distance Control
-Front view camera
-3D Design Style Front Splitter
-3D Design Side Skirts
-M Color Napa leather Stitched Steering wheel
-Mishimoto Oil Catch Can
-Varex exhaust
-Varex exhaust module

[B21]

Here's my modded and about to be modded list..

Done
Limited Slip Diff Quaife
Stage 2+ DME re-map MHD
Stage 2 TCU re-map xHP
Catless down pipes VSRF
B58 Ignition coil kit Nexys
Stage 1 colder plugs NGK
Evo 1 Intercooler Wagner
Index 12 injectors BMW
Inlet port walnut blast Indy
Uprated oil thermostat Mosselman
Uprated suspension Ohlins
Uprated steering tie rods Meyle
Later all metal water pump Piersburg
E90 M3 front Suspension arms Lemforder
Monoball bearing for front suspension arms Bimmerworld
Adjustable rear camber arms Powerflex
M3 E90 RTAB upgrade BMW
6 pot Brembo BBK front grooved /drilled BMW
Anti roll bars front and rear H&R
Engine bay strut tower brace
DCT aluminium deep sump
Colour matched calipers Phoenix Gold Biggred
Zimmerman drilled / vented rear discs
Centre speaker upgrade Eton
Door card speaker upgrade and door tweeter Audison
Rear shoulder speaker upgrade Eton
Rear centre speaker upgrade Eton
Rear brake lights LED upgrade
Rear reversing lights LED upgrade
Front HALO angel eyes LED upgrade
LCI side repeaters in gloss back BMW
5mm front wheel spacers
Arc 8 19" 8.5j 35 and 9.5J 33 Apex
245/35 19 275/30 19 Sports Contact 7 Continental
Z4 and 35is badges deleted
Gloss black rear valance
Gloss black roll over hoops
Gloss black Kidney Grills BMW
Aluminium oil filter cap
Pending (bought yet to be fitted)
TTE 500 Hybrid Turbo Upgrade TTE
Uprated turbo outflow pipes VTT
Uprated turbo inlet pipes VRSF
Uprated charge pipe VSRF
Uprated 450 lph LPFP Walboro
Uprated diveter valves Forge
Uprated PCV vales
DSP amp upgade Match 10 DSP Audiotec Fischer
Footwell woofer upgrade Audiotec Fischer
Subwoofer upgrade Audiotec Fischer
In car DSP control unit Audiotec Fischer
MOST adapter for DSP Audiotec Fischer
Carplay adapter Mr 12 Volt
Carbon fibre wrapped interior trim pieces Homebrew

[paris1]

A picture is worth 1k words!

[B21]

Originally Posted by paris1

A picture is worth 1k words!

Here you go..

[B21]

Originally Posted by paris1

A picture is worth 1k words!

Forgot the colour matched boot spoiler and the upgraded EKP LPFP controller to be fitted 👌👀😂🙈