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09-05-2019, 10:51 PM | #23 |
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When you should know as the sensor feeds the dash display. To replace it lives on the left side of your car, the black plastic tray in front of the driver wheel well. It goes from the wheel well to the front bumper cover.
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06-30-2020, 12:32 PM | #25 |
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my sons had the same issue. the cause was a broken wire in the wire loom (see attached pic).
the fix: take a 3ft piece of wire and connect the end points of each contact (1 by 1) in that loom, with someone pressing the top open/close button. when your wire closes the circuit you will then see which wire is broken. now you can replace that wire permanently. |
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03-08-2021, 10:32 AM | #26 | |
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z4 roof top issue
I have a hardtop Z4 E89 2009 model. My roof mechanism is not working. There was a leakage. I got the leakage issue fixed from the dealership. Right now, the truck opens up, the rear shell comes above the front shell and that's where the roof operation stops.
The dealership guy pointed towards the solenoid and told me the issue could be due to the temperature sensor here. The dealership could not make this fix as they only offer complete replacement of the hydraulic unit. Is this also called ambient temperature sensor? Do you know what this sensor is exactly called or the serial number? I see many different kinds of temperature sensors on the internet. Is replacing the temperature sensor an easy DIY? Quote:
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03-08-2021, 10:36 AM | #27 |
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Drives: 2008 535xi / 2011 Z4 35Is
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The ambient temperature sensor is located in the front bumper area and can be accessed from under the car with the panels removed, or with the wheel and black plastic wheel well cover removed.
Simple device with a simple plug - easy to unplug and plug in a new one. Seems to me you have broken wires in the harness (where it folds onto itself) or a bad micro switch |
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03-09-2021, 04:01 PM | #28 |
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z4e892009
I have just had that problem, one broken and one nearly broken wire. Mine broke on the bend on the right side. I could push on the wiring from inside the cabin and the warnings and red light would come on intermittent. Looking like a common fail point. My fix. https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=127188 Something i noticed the twin wires for each sensor before wrapping in tape at the factory had one twist in them. Perhaps the operative did this to make it easier to wrap. Unfortunately it seems the wires are barely long enough and looks like it's stretching and breaking the wires. In my case one in each pair. I wonder how long before the left side breaks. Last edited by bigendbob; 03-09-2021 at 04:07 PM.. |
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03-13-2021, 02:06 PM | #29 | |
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melde Dich mal im ZRoadster.com Forum an und dann wird Dir geholfen. Das hört sich alles ein wenig unsinnig an, insbesondere die Händleraussagen. Where are you from?
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03-13-2021, 02:12 PM | #30 | |
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I assume, that sooner or later each wire as well as each hydraulic hose will break. Don't hesitate to always fix these issues symmetrically, as in each case the wires, hoses as well as microswitches will stop working on both sides of the car.
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03-15-2021, 09:10 AM | #31 |
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Well my personal analysis and thoughts on my car build May 2009.
Who ever manufactured these wire loom, just like the boot problem, set the wire cropping machine to the wrong position. One wire in each pair have a cut at exactly the same point on the wire. One wire completely broke causing failure. The other the copper was exposed. To have a break at the same point is just about impossible. There is nothing that could cut the insulation completely around. My theory is the wire that survived in the pair, wasn't cut and is slightly longer. The operative wrapping the black cotton sticky tape ended up with one wire not matching the other and put a twist in the wire. I know i have done the same in the past. I have yet to investigate the left side, be interesting what i find. But i assume the wires are different lengths so probably not cut. |
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