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      11-03-2021, 02:14 PM   #23
RobbiZ4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomoracin View Post
Here are all my other friggin' errors!
For all other errors: just get it removed as you can't see, how old these messages are.
Brakefluid should be checked asap!

Check the battery as well: on the minus pole, there is a date - WWYY week and year. If it's a Z4 built in 2009, you'll see a "09", the other number is the production week. If it's the original OEM battery, get it replaced asap with a 70 Ah "AGM" type.
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      11-03-2021, 02:41 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by RobbiZ4 View Post
For all other errors: just get it removed as you can't see, how old these messages are.
Brakefluid should be checked asap!

Check the battery as well: on the minus pole, there is a date - WWYY week and year. If it's a Z4 built in 2009, you'll see a "09", the other number is the production week. If it's the original OEM battery, get it replaced asap with a 70 Ah "AGM" type.
i haven't checked yet, but could i like reset all the errors and see which ones come back? is that a thing?
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      11-03-2021, 02:47 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomoracin View Post
i haven't checked yet, but could i like reset all the errors and see which ones come back? is that a thing?
Correct, if you don't know the history of a car. With the next fault code read you can see, which part really requires your attention.

But get the brake fluid level checked asap!
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      11-03-2021, 04:18 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbiZ4 View Post
Correct, if you don't know the history of a car. With the next fault code read you can see, which part really requires your attention.

But get the brake fluid level checked asap!
Okay, I cleared the codes and rescanned...0 errors!

...but I think I probably have to drive it around a little and rescan again to be sure.
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      11-03-2021, 07:04 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomoracin View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbiZ4 View Post
Correct, if you don't know the history of a car. With the next fault code read you can see, which part really requires your attention.

But get the brake fluid level checked asap!
Okay, I cleared the codes and rescanned...0 errors!

...but I think I probably have to drive it around a little and rescan again to be sure.
Verdict…

- drove home
- turned off car
- rescanned…no errors
- tried opening hardtop again…error
- rescanned…same hardtop error
- but nothing else came back!

Is it safe to assume that the other errors were old and not applicaple now?

…honestly, if felt a little faster on my home from work too (not sure if it was just in my head or not though)
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      11-04-2021, 01:44 AM   #28
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As said:
Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbiZ4 View Post
A68C is a fault code of the hall sensor in the rear roof shell on the right.
In general, it indicates a broken wire in the roof harness.
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      02-14-2022, 02:53 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomoracin View Post
Verdict…
- tried opening hardtop again…error
- rescanned…same hardtop error
Any progress?
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      02-20-2022, 06:53 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nomoracin View Post
Verdict…

- drove home
- turned off car
- rescanned…no errors
- tried opening hardtop again…error
- rescanned…same hardtop error
- but nothing else came back!

Is it safe to assume that the other errors were old and not applicaple now?

…honestly, if felt a little faster on my home from work too (not sure if it was just in my head or not though)
I wouldn't say it's safe to assume, but very possible. You have no idea if these problems were addressed and the codes were simply not cleared, but any half decent BMW mechanic would clear the codes after fixing an issue. Brake fluid should be checked immediately. Also, check the codes again after a couple to a few hundred miles or after a few cold starts to see if you get any misfire codes again. If you do, welcome to N54s and direct injection! Index 12 injectors (the latest and best injector revision for the N54) are a must and FCP Euro is your best friend in this case and many other parts as almost all parts from them come with a lifetime warranty. Don't beat yourself up for buying a used BMW, especially the e89. It's an amazing car as long as you maintain it properly!
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      02-10-2023, 06:30 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbiZ4 View Post
A68C is a fault code of the hall sensor in the rear roof shell on the right.
In general, it indicates a broken wire in the roof harness.
Attachment 2734738

Yes, it looks perfect.
RobbiZ4 is it always on the right? (USA)..
So you are saying if there is a broken wire it should be on the right.

I found the wires to the sensor. I may use a jump wire where I can and try to jump them a closer location on the other side of the frame if I can't get to the broken location.
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Last edited by okanfx; 02-11-2023 at 12:04 AM..
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      02-11-2023, 12:13 AM   #32
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Yellow and brown. Those above must be the wires.
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      02-11-2023, 01:38 AM   #33
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The hall sensor is only on the right, yellow&brown.

But don't underestimate that every 2 (MS, left) and 2x2 (MS&HS right) wires are worn and broken. A partial repair is usually short-lived.

Always replace this zip tie on your pic correctly, if you've cut it already. It's important to not get the hydraulic hose damaged.

Last edited by RobbiZ4; 02-12-2023 at 02:13 AM..
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      02-12-2023, 12:22 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbiZ4 View Post
The hall sensor is only right is correct, yellow&brown.

But don't underestimate that every 2 (MS, left) and 2x2 (MS&HS right) wires are worn and broken. A partial repair is usually short-lived.

Always replace this zip tie on your pic correctly, if you've cut it already. It's important to not get the hydraulic hose damaged.

I will make sure the hydraulic hose gets ziptied correctly. I may have a little trouble putting the wires as they were since it is pretty tight up there. I didn't have enough room with only 3-4inch opening to unwrap all the wires to find where the wire was broken. So I unplug the little plug going into the hall sensor and cut it off from the wires coming from the harness. Soldered a length of wire to the plug outside the car and soldered the other end to an accessible harness by the seats. That cleared the fault and let me put down the top and roll up the windows. Tomorrow I will raise it half way and try to wire harnessing them and doing back the zipties etc. I will also try to replace the wires of the micro switch in the accessible section of the wire harness. Add some WireCoil things at bending locations add new harness where I can. The left side seem to be doing better with little extra wire and less restricted movement for the wires.

Last edited by okanfx; 02-12-2023 at 12:54 AM..
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      02-12-2023, 12:44 AM   #35
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Code reader and Realtime data stream for the CTM

After I replaced the wires, car was still blinking with roof error, since the shell 2 was still propped on some little styrofoam boxes for the fix. So I couldn't tell if the new soldered wires fixed the problem or not. Then to make sure I scanned it with this inexpensive $60 bmw scanner with CTM support and Realtime data stream. I cleared the fault and it didn't come back, I rescanned and didn't come back. Then I felt good the fix worked and removed the prop boxes.

This scanner won't issue override commands like open the locked boot. I think the only think it does at the moment is to let you change the battery, but not sure about that I didn't try that part of it.

But it is good showing data and faults of the CTM.
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      02-13-2023, 08:08 AM   #36
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That looks like a very nice code reader. I have both INPA and ISTA on an old laptop. They are great, but a PIA to use. Not intuitive at all. It would have be nice to have something like this to throw in the trunk for the occasional emergency use.
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      05-09-2023, 04:01 PM   #37
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Got exactly the same issue today... will get it diagnosed properly, but initially seems like i have broken those hall sensor wires aswell.
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      05-09-2023, 04:19 PM   #38
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2010 BMW Z4  [7.25]

Too bad I'm in NorCal...
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      06-21-2023, 04:26 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyP View Post
Got exactly the same issue today... will get it diagnosed properly, but initially seems like i have broken those hall sensor wires aswell.
Got my roof working again half a week ago. It did end up being broken hall sensor wires.
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      06-22-2023, 02:34 AM   #40
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Both pairs of wires need replacing at least past the last bend.
So about 3 foot of wires.
Otherwise you will just keep going back fixing, just be done with.
Here in UK i just used 13amp mains flex, lets see that break.

I suspect these roofs are Italian designed, similar set up on Ferrari.
Probably built there as well with their wiring.
Fiat standard.

Bit like rubbish Magnetti tail lights.

Last edited by bigendbob; 06-22-2023 at 02:39 AM..
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      06-22-2023, 03:36 AM   #41
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yes i saw a thread on german zroadster forum where all wires on the hinges got replaced.
At the moment only both hall sensor wires got replaced but i already talked with the shop that did the work about bringing the car back and doing some preventative maintenance on it. Like replacing microswitches cables aswell in the rear shell and i still havent replaced my coupling lock microswitches.

i bought the coupling lock switches and have them but then when i read repair manual, it said that bmw had changed the plug style on them and now when you order them they have newer connector at the end of them. And as mine is a early 09 car then i have to buy all the older connector parts... pins housing etc from bmw and repin and replace the end of it to be able plug in to my wiring harness. This information demotivated me so much that i just threw those switches on a shelf and left them there. So planning on having the shop do all of it for me.

But at the moment ill just take some time to enjoy the car... i have had alot of work and repairs done to the car recently one after another and havent really been able to enjoy it. all rear trailing arm bushings upgrade, new front strut top mounts, new front wheel bearings, new set of PS4S tires, replaced wing mirror motor, roof wiring fix...
So im taking the car to the seaside for the holidays and just enjoy the hell out of it.
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Last edited by KennyP; 06-22-2023 at 03:51 AM..
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      06-27-2023, 04:01 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyP View Post
This information demotivated me so much that i just threw those switches on a shelf and left them there. So planning on having the shop do all of it for me.
Well, that is a quite simple task for all pre-2013 Z4:
  • open the flat plate of the old housing with a tiny screwdriver and don't tear it off!
  • unpin the 2 pins out of the old housing sorrowly without damaging the housing
  • cut the new oval housing several times deeply and bend it out like a flower (really!)
  • remove the pink plate to be able to unpin the 2 new pins
  • pull out the 2 new pins
  • turn off the green gummis
  • re-crimp each pin with a good AWG20-22 crimp tool
  • pin the 2 new pins into the old housing
This takes about 2 minutes per switch and is much easier than re-soldering or fiddling around with an expensive adapter, that BMW offers.

Just do it and don't wait two long if you won't run into troubles while driving even with an already closed(!) roof.
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      06-28-2023, 07:01 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbiZ4 View Post
Well, that is a quite simple task for all pre-2013 Z4:
  • open the flat plate of the old housing with a tiny screwdriver and don't tear it off!
  • unpin the 2 pins out of the old housing sorrowly without damaging the housing
  • cut the new oval housing several times deeply and bend it out like a flower (really!)
  • remove the pink plate to be able to unpin the 2 new pins
  • pull out the 2 new pins
  • turn off the green gummis
  • re-crimp each pin with a good AWG20-22 crimp tool
  • pin the 2 new pins into the old housing
This takes about 2 minutes per switch and is much easier than re-soldering or fiddling around with an expensive adapter, that BMW offers.

Just do it and don't wait two long if you won't run into troubles while driving even with an already closed(!) roof.
Thanks for the information.
You said there is an adapter that bmw offers... do have a partnumber for that adapter by any chance?
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      06-29-2023, 12:52 AM   #44
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Hi

This adapter is not worth to buy, as it is only 1 plug with two wires, without the required 2nd plug. You indeed have to solder these wires when you buy the adapter.

The easier way is to pin out the new pins, re-crimp it and put it into the old, original housing.

Last edited by RobbiZ4; 07-22-2023 at 04:10 AM..
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