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06-18-2019, 12:38 AM | #45 | |
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We are discussing about these topics in the German ZRoadster forum as well: https://translate.google.com/transla...umpe.136284%2F Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-13-2019 at 05:14 PM.. |
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06-28-2019, 08:37 PM | #46 |
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I have developed an issue recently where sometimes my top needs a little help to complete the opening process. The glass stacks on top of the roof and then the roof lifts slightly and stops. I push up on it a little from inside and it starts going again and completes the rest of the process without issue.
Sometimes the top opens fine without my help. Sometimes the roof opens a few inches and I push it... sometimes it barely opens at all (but unlocks) and I push it. Except for the initial hang up, the rest of the process seems to move at normal speed, or at least the same speed as it always has. Have never had any issue with the top closing. Would appreciate any input. Hydraulic cables that I can see appear intact and without evidence of wear. No hydraulic fluid leaking. Pump in the trunk appears to be dry and in good condition cosmetically (no corrosion, etc). |
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06-29-2019, 01:19 AM | #47 | |
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Well, pushing the roof is not the best option to get it repaired. Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-13-2019 at 05:16 PM.. |
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06-29-2019, 01:29 AM | #48 |
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Well that looks bad... RobbiZ4 , I'm assuming you live in Germany...
I'd really like to find someone to do a whole top system refurbish (pump refurbish, lines, wires, etc). But, it seems experts on these tops are next to nil. You in Germany... TopHydraulics in Oregon. |
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06-29-2019, 01:34 AM | #49 | |
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Why do you want to refurbish "everything, i.e. the hydraulic pump? If it works fine there is no reason to touch it. The only issue is water in the trunk and in the foam. The most important step to avoid damages is to replace the two salmon relays next to the pump. |
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06-29-2019, 01:38 AM | #50 |
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I actually just replaced the salmon relays recently... so at least that part is done!
I guess "refurbish everything" is an overstatement. What I really mean is that I want someone who knows what they're looking at to evaluate the entirety of the system and repair any areas that need fixing. Maybe for me its just the roof wires, and everything else is fine. |
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06-29-2019, 01:46 AM | #52 | |
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Just keep an eye on it regularly, even if the car is parked in a garage. There is no detailled description available as it needs a good understanding of the roof folding process. Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-13-2019 at 09:08 AM.. |
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06-29-2019, 02:02 AM | #54 |
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Maybe NoQuarter has an idea.
Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-13-2019 at 05:16 PM.. |
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06-29-2019, 05:09 AM | #56 |
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Well, repairing all 4 wires taktes about 4 to 6 hours. No additional material is required.
BMW normally won't repair, they replace the whole harness including the hydraulic lines. This part costs AFAIK about 1200$ in the States, about 1.000€ in Germany. |
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06-29-2019, 07:20 PM | #57 |
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Robbi... do you know any of the part numbers to the harness components?
Wires alone and/or full harness with hydraulic lines? To all... anyone have experience getting their top repaired at a dealership in NC/SC/VA or at least East Coast/Southeast? |
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06-30-2019, 11:32 AM | #59 | |
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Have you taken it to a dealer or an independent who has a BMW code reader? The pump and various relays/switches throw codes and it may narrow down your problem. My top was slow opening and would stutter as it retracted, but closed normally. I thought it most likely a wiring harness or hall sensor issue since it seemed like the process was repeatedly stopping/starting during retraction. An independent shop read the codes and said it was showing a continuous pump overheat. $620 later, my top works perfectly. Might be worth an hour of labor to get a more finite diagnosis.
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06-30-2019, 07:30 PM | #60 |
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BuddhaPilot Thanks for your message. No, I have not had time to yet. I reached out to an independent shop... hopefully I'll hear from them tomorrow.
I have a Carly OBD dongle. Should that show the codes? Or are the BMW code readers that dealers/independent shops have necessary to pinpoint the issue? |
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07-01-2019, 12:33 AM | #61 |
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The harness is part no. 5 ( 54377311084 ):
http://www.bmw-etk.info/parts-catalo...068/54/54_0402 It is one single piece for both sides of the car, has a lenght of in total about 3m.: Carly can read fault codes of the CTM, but not every fault is documented. And - hall sensors will never die! Only the wires will break. If there is a fault code mentioning hall sensor or microswitch, look for broken wires. @BuddhaPilot The pump will only die if there was water in the trunk. And if so, it doesn't work at all. Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-13-2019 at 05:17 PM.. |
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07-01-2019, 01:35 AM | #62 | |
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Finally delivered!!...2012 135i/AW over Coral Red/MSport/Nav/HK/Toasty Seats/6MT |
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07-01-2019, 03:03 AM | #63 |
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Thanks for the info, guys! And, Robbi, thanks so much for the photos.
What are Parts 6 and 7 on the diagram? They look like hydraulic lines as well. Are those prone to breaking, or just Part 5? |
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07-01-2019, 11:44 PM | #64 | |
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07-02-2019, 11:57 AM | #65 | |
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In addition, you need a set of roof shell screws 54377220536 and some roof clips 54377220698 and some dozen of zip ties. |
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07-02-2019, 12:51 PM | #66 | |
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Still debating what to do. I raised and lowered the top multiple times yesterday and never had the issue. Tried to make a video so I'd be able to show a dealership or independent shop what is happening (in case I couldn't reproduce it on site for them). I guess I can just wait until it becomes more of an issue. Thankfully, I've never had any issue putting it up. |
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