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10-05-2018, 05:49 PM | #23 |
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So. Used the camera a little more today. And I will probably try a different one at some point. But what I have currently is better than no camera at all.
This is the camera I currently have: Accele TLP100IRBL License plate frame backup cam with active parking lines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSF7KD1..._aB-TBbD711C12 The line width is determined by the camera but seems to closely approximate the width of the car. The large, dotted, multicolored lines are static. There are thin red lines that turn when you turn the wheel, you can see them in the photo in my prior post. However, the thin red lines do not seem to approximate the turn of the wheel accurately. The camera can be tilted up or down, which helps with it being mounted so low. I haven't tried driving far in reverse using the camera. I only really need it for backing out of parking spaces and my short driveway. I may try a more basic camera. I'd like to fix the image offset on the iDrive screen that I mentioned above. And, while I like lines that turn with the wheel, I'd rather have static lines only than turning lines that are inaccurate. *Edit* — the larger lines also turn with the camera I have but again do not approximate the turn of the wheel particularly well. |
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10-09-2018, 03:35 PM | #24 |
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Thanks for the info. I think those cameras with active lines detect the actual physical turning of the car, not the turning of the wheel. So, the lines would be reactive not predictive, and would probably lag in reflecting the car's actual trajectory. I would imagine it would be better than nothing and better than regular static lines. But you seem to think it is worse.
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10-10-2018, 04:13 PM | #25 |
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You bring up an interesting point.
I agree that an aftermarket, non-OEM camera with turning lines would likely be reactive rather than predictive. However, with the camera I have... the thin red lines turn with the wheel even when the car is not in motion (albeit, inaccurately... they turn much more rapidly in when turning the wheel to one direction vs the other). This would suggest that they are predictive. On the other hand, the larger lines only turn when the car is in motion, suggesting that they are reactive (and their reaction is not particularly smooth with frequent corrections). Question for those who know more about this stuff.... Can information other than just video be sent via the yellow RCA cable? i.e. can predictive information based on the turn of the wheel be sent to the camera? Somehow the info is getting from the wheel to the camera and I can't imagine its via the 12v. I didn't give it much thought at first... but now I'm curious. Regarding preference. My jeep with OEM curving lines is great. My gf's beetle with static lines is fine. This aftermarket system with choppy, frequently re-correcting, reactive turning lines is just distracting. Maybe other aftermarket cameras are better. Or maybe there are adjustments I could do to improve this one... |
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10-15-2018, 01:18 PM | #26 |
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Couple of questions
bryanhoag, able to use Siri for most things and mic works well? When you start-up the car, does it automatically go to CarPlay if it was the last thing on the screen when shut down? Last question, does it have another video input either composite or HDMI to use for a FireTV or such?
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10-15-2018, 02:14 PM | #27 |
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Yes, Siri works well. But, as mentioned previously, you do have to run a separate mic.
Unfortunately, when you start up the car, it defaults to the iDrive system, so you always have to switch to the CarPlay system upon start up (even if you were on the CarPlay system when you last shut the car down). However, the back up camera initiates automatically in either mode. That is one of my few complaints about this system. You always have to switch to it on start up. And... if you start directions in CarPlay, then toggle to iDrive, then toggle back to CarPlay, you have to restart your directions. But, its not that big of a deal. There is no other video input source. Only a yellow RCA plug. |
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10-19-2018, 12:51 PM | #28 | |
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10-19-2018, 03:57 PM | #29 | ||
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You can see the fiber optic connections in the lower right, and those areas were blank on the German harness that I bought. (Sorry, I do not have a picture of the harness that I bought.) They told me I was going to have to spend extra money and buy a new amp, because my harness would not work. BUT IT DID. An hour after I left they called me back and told me they hooked it up with my harness and it worked. I wish I could give you more technical information as to why, but I didn't ask. They said it worked without a new amp, and it worked. I didn't think to ask why what they told me earlier was wrong. What I got from the Germans was a three-way harness that connected to the car harness (pictured above), the Joying head unit, and a black box that came with the German harness. The box box had two connections to it. One connection connected to the harness, the other connection connected to an adaptor cable they sent that was specific to the Joying radio type. I did find a picture of this adaptor cable: That adaptor cable connects directly to the Joying to provide the steering wheel controls. This was not explained in the instructions. So, I had to contact the Germans to figure out what wire on the adaptor connected to which wire on the Joying. Here are their instruction: Quote:
Good luck. Last edited by tommylotto; 10-19-2018 at 04:05 PM.. |
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10-19-2018, 06:09 PM | #30 | ||||||
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10-19-2018, 09:00 PM | #31 |
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By Halo, do you mean the Alpine Halo. If you think you can get that to work, more power to you. It is a better more reliable unit all around. It will work as intended, because Alpine is a major company and cannot afford to sell crap. I just think that screen is too big, but maybe it works for you.
If you bought the harness for the Halo it probably will not work for the Joying. The site selling the harness was pretty particular about which head unit you had, and Alpine was a different product from no-name Chinese. Looks like your setup came with two black boxes, not one. So, it is definitely not the same thing I had. Good luck. |
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10-24-2018, 07:01 PM | #32 |
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A few brief updates re: UniChip SmartBox
1) There were some concerns early on about future support for iOS updates, etc. UniChip support sent me two update files recently to load onto USB drives and plug into the USB port of the SmartBox. Very easy to update. 2) Back up camera issue with image being shifted upward on the screen was not fixed by the update. Nor was it fixed by using a different camera. So it's an issue inherent to the SmartBox (perhaps mine is just a dud?). Still better than not having a camera. |
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01-29-2019, 01:44 PM | #33 | |
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I'm thinking of going with Unichip carplay too. How has it been for you. Any issues after 6 months? Os or firmware Updates? Thanks |
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01-29-2019, 01:59 PM | #34 | |
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Do you have to press any buttons to get backup camera image on screen. Did you have to splice into reversing light wire or dies the carplay box take care of that? Thanks |
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01-29-2019, 08:06 PM | #35 | |
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No... back up camera shows up automatically whether you're using iDrive or the CarPlay smartbox. Camera disappears after moving forward for a few seconds and goes back to whichever screen you had been on before backing up. You do not have to splice into the reverse light wire. The carplay box does that for you (which is awesome). |
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01-30-2019, 09:41 AM | #36 |
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01-30-2019, 01:23 PM | #37 | ||
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I thought about splitting the two camera outputs to the smart box but then that only work if the smart box has an option to turn on video feed when not in reverse? Have you thought about a front camera? Lastly, where did you route the camera cable to get to the rear number plate? |
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01-30-2019, 10:17 PM | #38 | |
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Regarding turning the smartbox video feed on... I have PDC and I can press the PDC button to turn the camera on or off regardless of which direction I'm moving. So, if you have PDC, that may solve that issue for you. As far as running the cables... I ran through the armrest, through the ski pass through, into the trunk and through the battery compartment. Then I had to remove the big plastic rectangular piece of trim at the back of the trunk (with the little light in it). That is a bit of a hassle to remove because you also have to remove trim pieces on both sides of it to get it out. Once out, there was already a hole in the back metal that I was able to pass the cables through (but you could drill one if there wasn't one there). The only hole I had to drill was a small hole in the bumper immediately above the license plate. I taped the cables to a clothes hanger and was able to fish them through the plastic hole and the metal hole. Hope that helps... have fun! |
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01-30-2019, 10:35 PM | #39 | ||
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Cheers |
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01-30-2019, 10:38 PM | #40 |
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02-01-2019, 05:33 AM | #41 | |||
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I have spent half the day installing the system. Can you please give me an idea where in the metal back is the hole to the license plate. I have removed all the trim as per your post. There's a number of small holes, but they seem to only go into an inner skin of the panel. My next step is to remove the bumper but want to avoid it if I can. Also. Does your messages in CarPlay work? When I click on a message header, it wants me to send a reply. I can't view the message. Does your system video image blink now and then. I can find any info for the dip switches. I suspect they set screen resolution and size, which may be my blinking issue... Thanks in advance. |
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02-01-2019, 10:21 PM | #42 |
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Hey.. sorry the wire running has been such a hassle. It's been so long since I did mine, its hard to remember exactly what I did. But, the holes through the metal were at the midline. As I'm thinking about it, I think there may have been two holes through metal. I'm pretty sure I drilled my hole through the plastic bumper above the license plate and then poked a clothes hanger through that hole aimed upward and then looked down through the metal holes from above at the tip of the hanger and just moved it around until I managed to get it to poke through the first metal hole and then worked it through the second.
I know that's probably not the easiest to follow and I apologize that I'm trying to remember exactly how a project went that I did months ago. But, I did not remove the bumper. That would be way more of a hassle that I'd want to deal with. I honestly don't use iMessage/text in CarPlay. But, I do know that CarPlay in any car doesn't show you the actual message. Siri reads it to you and asks if you want to reply. Not sure if that is what you're asking.. I have not had issues with blinking. I'm sure you're right about the dip switches. I just left mine as they were when delivered and it worked correctly. But I'm sure if you contact UniChip support and tell them you have a Z4 e89, they can tell you exactly how the switches should be set. |
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02-02-2019, 06:00 AM | #43 | |
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Thank you. I searched for an hour. No holes that goes outside anyways in the back of my 2013 car. I ended up going though the gromet that carries the hose for the exhaust valve. Gosh it was a painful job to route the cables though the car. Well made car and I'm too old to twist that much Re carplay. Thanks for the heads up. I hadn't use it for messages in a factory setup either. My Unichip ver doesn't read the message. It just wants me to dictate a message. Appreciate your help. It's all done now and I'm pretty happy to have a reversing camera got the z4! Cheers |
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02-02-2019, 06:48 AM | #44 |
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Glad it worked out! Question... do you have the issue where the image is shifted up on the screen with part wrapped around to the bottom when you're using the reverse camera?
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