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12-08-2014, 06:09 PM | #1 |
BMWZ4Rider
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DIY H and R Lowering Springs For 2009 35i Z4
H and R Lowering Springs DIY Installation
Part # 28987-1 Non Adaptive Suspension I could not find an DIY on the web for installing H and R (or any) lowering springs for my 09 Z4 35i NON Adaptive Suspension. I found many installations on 3 series and other Bimmers which I took notes from, so I took on this project. 1st I got a quote for the 4 springs installed from a trusted local mechanic who specializes in German and other cars. He quoted me $841 to do the 4 spring install and complete an alignment. Some Tips and Lessons Learned: I used all the standard hand tools- No air guns You need 2 Jacks- 1 Low Profile which is an ABSOLUTE MUST especially after the lowering springs are installed on the F. Experience If you raise the car with a standard size jack, lower the car on the jack stands, install the new lowering springs and then lower the car from the center F jack point with anything other then a low profile jack, you will not be able to get the jack out from under the newly lowered car. I started with the Rear Springs Basics: 1. Loosen the wheel lugs on the ground. 2. Raise the car from the Center Jack Points in the rear 3. Put the car on jack stands- both sides. 4. Remove the wheel- DUH. 5. Put the 2nd jack under the rear suspension Shock Carrier mount and put light pressure on the mount 6. Remove the Shock Bolt. This the ONLY bolt that has to be removed to get the spring off. 7. Put the Spring Compressor on the spring. 8. Compress the springs appx. 1 to 1.5 inches. 9. Lower the jack on the shock arm low enough to allow the spring to move around in the mounting brackets. 10. As I did this alone, I had to then lean heavily on the hub to push the spring mount down which will allow enough room under the spring to pry out the bottom rubber spring mount with the spring still in place. 11. Once this Rubber Mount is removed the spring will come right out. 1st spring took me 2 hours to remove BUT I was being VERY careful and I was very slow to go- NO MISTAKES. 2nd spring tool 30 minutes (NOTE and Lesson) Use the Correct Spring Compressor Tool for the Job. There were 2 types needed. One fit the rear due to small amount of room and the 2 bar system to fit the front. I borrowed these tools from AutoZone for a $50 deposit. I loaned out the 2 different tools. 12. IMPORTANT- Once the spring is OUT Raise the suspension arm with the jack. DO NOT LET THE Wheel hub HANG as this is putting twisting and stretching motion on the bushings. A short time hanging is OK while getting the spring out BUT Letting the hub just Hang COULD damage the bushings- My Opinion. 12. Remove the Upper Robber Spring Mount 13. Clean The Upper and Lower Rubber Springs Mounts. 14. Clean the Spring mounting arms on the car. (I Completely cleaned the wheel wells, brakes, everything- Personal choice. 15. Note the Rubber spring mounting boot and where the OEM springs sat in them and left indents. I installed the new springs with the springs ends located 180 degrees on the opposite side as there are no mounting stops on the rubber mounts on the rear (BUT there are very specific mounting stops on the Front) 16. Lower the Jack to the lowest point possible and allow the wheel hub to hang freely (BUT with Keeping the Jack still under shock mount and ready to raise it when the new spring is installed.) 17. No Need for the Springs Compressor to Install the new springs, as they are substantially shorter then stock even with the top and bottom rubber boots installed on the springs. 18. Install the spring making sure the rubber mount fit into the spring arm locations. Note there is a correct spring top and top and bottom. 19. Once the spring is installed properly, raise the hub up with the jack. 20. Reinstalled the shock bolt. 21. Repeat on the other side. Front 1. 1-4 Same as the rear. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THE STRUT ASSEMBLY OUT OF THE CAR TO COMPLETE THIS INSTALL. 2. Remove the 3 rubber hoses, tool less, from there mounts, which are mounted to the wheel well and brake hose support 3. Unbolt the Brake Hose Bolt and suspension Connector arm. 4. Passenger Side- Remove the small electric motor arm- UNSURE what this does BUT the 10MM nut/Bolt must me removed to allow full front suspension travel. 5. Put the 2nd Jack under the suspension arm and sung it up with pressure on the arm. 6. Open the Hood. 7. Take the Dust cap off the strut not cover. 8. 19 MM- Loosen the Strut Nut. You need 2 tools to do this correctly. 9. NOTE- I DID NOT have the correct size allen key to fit into the center strut post to keep it from turning while loosening the strut nut. Improvision Here- I took a pair of locking jaw pliers. I use duct tape and tapers off the sharp edges, Then taped felt over the teeth for a smooth surface on the pliers. I then when inside the wheel well and clamped with LIGHT pressure the strut, Loosened the strut nut. 10. Jack up the strut and compress the spring with the jack, This makes putting the spring compressors on much easier. 11. Back in the wheel well, put on the 2 bar spring compressors located 180 apart on the spring. NOTE- Put on the spring compressors on the springs with the turning nut on the top, as there is not enough room to have the LONG threaded rod of the compressor fit up inside the strut housing with the turning nut on the bottom. 12. EVENLY compress the springs until 2-3 springs are touching each other. 13. Back in the ER- Now remove the 3 strut nuts. 14. Now begin to slowly lower the strut assembly with the jack. 15. Before lowering all the want down jget a HEAVT DUTY bungy or ROPE and tie it around the strut assembly tieing it off in the ER. This keeps the VERY HEAVY strut assembly from torqueing and twisting all the bushings on the steering arms etc. if you let it just hang freely. 15. Once the strut assembly is lowered and with the correct spring compression the complete struct/spring assembly will come out of the mounting hole and come out of the wheel well. AGAIN TIE THIS ASSEMBLY OFF. DO NOT LET IT HANG FREELY. USE THE BUNGY/ROPE FOR SUPPORTING THIS. 16. With the spring compressors left on the spring, continue to remove the strut/spring bolt on top. Use the lock pliers technique above if the strut is still turning while removing the nut. 17. Carefully removed the strut spring assembly and note the order of the parts. Once the nit is off, Remove in order: Strut assembly top Grease cover on the bottom side of this assembly. Large tapered formed washer- MUST BE PUT BACK IN THE SAME ORDER. Spring mount top Spring Spring mount bottom- Located on the Strut assembly. 18. CLEAN EVERYTHING 19. Grease the bearing on the strut top. This is your only change to service this piece. 20. Ready for Re-assembly- Prefit the HR spring o the strut mount bottom- NOTE the Spring end stop. 21. Prefit the Spring mount top with Pre set mounting location. 22. On the ground, put the 2 springs compressors on the HR Spring. 23. Compress the spring until the 3 center springs are touching. 24. Put the Spring on the lower strut mount, with the spring end fit into the correct location as described about. If the spring is compressed enough, the spring mount top will fit (with the spring end fit into mounting stop provided) and allow the strut mounting top to fit over the strut and put the center bolt on. 25. Tighten the bolt on the strut top as tight as possibe. 26. Now lower the strut with the jack and slide the assembly up insiude the wheel well and into it position. 27. Use the jack to jack up the suspension into the strut location and align the 3 bolts and ALIGNMENT PIN into position with the jack. If the bolts and pin are not in the correct position, rotate the top until it aligns up 3 bolts and 1 pin- There is only 1 way this will go. 28. When aligned raise up jack until the bolts protrude into there designated holes. 29. Tighten the bolts. Reinstall all the hoses removed from there clamps and other bolts. 30. Now do the other side- 1st F spring took me 4 hours. 2nd one took me 2 hours. 31. Put the car together, Lower it Literally and test drive. My car drives straight as an arrow. It is recommended to get her aligned BUT I am not sure why, with the achieved results. The car dropped appx 1 to 1.2 inches as stated by H and R. I love the Look and she dove like a champ.
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2009 BMW Z4 35i/SMG/DCT/Premium,Cold, Sound PK/Com Acc/Ash/PDC/Wind Deflector/Smoked Reflectors/Red Calipers/Cl Mask/M Series Grill/6000K LED's/De-Badged/M Pedals/CF Mirrors-Engine Cover/Stubby/20% Tint/H8 LED's/LCI Side Markers/Sniper Sprint Spoiler/VMR V710/H&R Sport Springs/KN.
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12-08-2014, 07:22 PM | #3 |
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nice work! thanks for the write up!
By the way, it seems like you kept the dampers in place. Are these the H&R "OE Sport" springs that are designed to work with the stock dampers? Also, the lowering looks very similar to a car with the stock sport suspension. Is that correct, or would there be a slight lowering if someone with the stock sport/adaptive suspension did this mod? |
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12-08-2014, 08:14 PM | #4 |
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Nick he dropped 1 1/2". The M sport drop is 10mm or a touch less than1/2". So he's an inch lower than sport suspension.
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2016 340i XDrive, EBII/black, 6 MT, M Sport, Track Handling, Cold Weather, Tech, Lighting, Driver Assistance Plus.
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12-08-2014, 08:34 PM | #5 |
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It's hard to imagine having to crawl over speed bumps and negotiate driveways any more carefully than I have to with the adaptive suspension to avoid scraping. Good luck with that!
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12-08-2014, 11:37 PM | #6 |
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Great job, car looks so much nicer lowered. Had mine installed over a year ago and still very happy with them, you going to enjoy the improved handling.
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12-09-2014, 02:34 AM | #7 |
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12-09-2014, 06:35 AM | #8 |
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I did not YET have the alignment done, as I just finished this on Sunday.
However from a good long test drive with straight runs, slalom turns and tight radius turning the car steers and tracks staright as an arrow. No Pulling to either side. Is the alignment stiill needed? Any alighment # and recommendations from forum members with these springs installed?
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2009 BMW Z4 35i/SMG/DCT/Premium,Cold, Sound PK/Com Acc/Ash/PDC/Wind Deflector/Smoked Reflectors/Red Calipers/Cl Mask/M Series Grill/6000K LED's/De-Badged/M Pedals/CF Mirrors-Engine Cover/Stubby/20% Tint/H8 LED's/LCI Side Markers/Sniper Sprint Spoiler/VMR V710/H&R Sport Springs/KN.
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12-09-2014, 06:39 AM | #9 | |
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Quote:
The drop was susbstantial at the H and R stated 1.2 inches from stock NON Adaptive suspension levels. Unsure about the total drop with Adaptive suspension and adding these springs.
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2009 BMW Z4 35i/SMG/DCT/Premium,Cold, Sound PK/Com Acc/Ash/PDC/Wind Deflector/Smoked Reflectors/Red Calipers/Cl Mask/M Series Grill/6000K LED's/De-Badged/M Pedals/CF Mirrors-Engine Cover/Stubby/20% Tint/H8 LED's/LCI Side Markers/Sniper Sprint Spoiler/VMR V710/H&R Sport Springs/KN.
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12-09-2014, 06:44 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
All kidding aside, the car is LOW. The low profile jack scrapes along the under side of the car. SO SHE's LOW.
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2009 BMW Z4 35i/SMG/DCT/Premium,Cold, Sound PK/Com Acc/Ash/PDC/Wind Deflector/Smoked Reflectors/Red Calipers/Cl Mask/M Series Grill/6000K LED's/De-Badged/M Pedals/CF Mirrors-Engine Cover/Stubby/20% Tint/H8 LED's/LCI Side Markers/Sniper Sprint Spoiler/VMR V710/H&R Sport Springs/KN.
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12-09-2014, 09:21 AM | #11 | |
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Quote:
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03-24-2015, 10:15 AM | #12 |
BMWZ4Rider
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Follow up to my winter project-install of my H and R lowering springs/ drop.
Does anyone have what ALIGNMENT RECOMMENDATIONS, SETTING FRONT AND REAR after my drop that should be done?. Should I go to BMW for this? I have a very good, local, Independent shop but unsure about having the alignment done by them without forum members experience and recommendations. Thanx in advance
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2009 BMW Z4 35i/SMG/DCT/Premium,Cold, Sound PK/Com Acc/Ash/PDC/Wind Deflector/Smoked Reflectors/Red Calipers/Cl Mask/M Series Grill/6000K LED's/De-Badged/M Pedals/CF Mirrors-Engine Cover/Stubby/20% Tint/H8 LED's/LCI Side Markers/Sniper Sprint Spoiler/VMR V710/H&R Sport Springs/KN.
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05-04-2016, 05:10 PM | #13 |
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i still can't figure out how you placed a spring compressor in the rear left spring. I removed the coil bolt but I can't seem to pull the spring out. I've tried having someone stand on the wheel hub, but there simply isn't enough give. I loaned both types of spring compressors and I can't find a good mounting point. Doesn't seem to fit anywhere. Please help
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05-04-2016, 07:28 PM | #14 | |
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So to answer your question, go to Home Depot and buy a 4 foot wrecking bar which you will use as a pry bar. You will figure out how to apply the bar to the trailing arm to release tension on the spring. Press down on the bar with all your weight and manly strength while your buddy grabs the spring and yanks it out.
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2016 340i XDrive, EBII/black, 6 MT, M Sport, Track Handling, Cold Weather, Tech, Lighting, Driver Assistance Plus.
2012 Z4 35i, ED 2/24/2012, Melbourne Red Metallic, Black Leather, Carbon Trim, 6MT, M Sport, CW, PP, PS, NAV, CA. |
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05-05-2016, 03:43 AM | #15 | |
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Okay thanks for the heads up. Also, is it better to have both sides lifted? And possible disconnect the sway bar to allow more give? |
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05-05-2016, 05:07 AM | #16 |
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I see you have VMR V710, are they 9.5j ET33 rears with 265/30 tyres? Any rubbing with this setup?
I'm going to fit Eibach springs but worried they will cause rubbing. The drops is less than H&R so if you have no rubbing I'll be fine. |
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05-05-2016, 05:55 AM | #17 | ||
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2016 340i XDrive, EBII/black, 6 MT, M Sport, Track Handling, Cold Weather, Tech, Lighting, Driver Assistance Plus.
2012 Z4 35i, ED 2/24/2012, Melbourne Red Metallic, Black Leather, Carbon Trim, 6MT, M Sport, CW, PP, PS, NAV, CA. |
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05-10-2016, 02:23 PM | #18 | |
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Quote:
When refitting the spring on your own sit on a plank of wood propped up against the brake disc hub , put the top of the spring in first and jiggle on the plank whilst using a pry bar to just lever the bottom of the spring over the bottom spring cup locator |
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07-25-2019, 09:12 AM | #21 | |
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