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11-20-2010, 06:31 AM | #2 |
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11-20-2010, 06:33 AM | #3 |
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The Z4 35i/is is very easy to do this mod on.
All you do is look under the right exhaust and you will see a S-shaped rubber pipe going to the flap actuator. Pull this out and block it with a golf tee and seal the actuator end too to stop dirt getting in. Alternatively just get two small zip ties, kink the rubber pipe and tighten the zip ties over it to stop any air getting through. Takes 5 minutes max. There are other methods that use something to block the pipe like a ball bearing and reconnect or hose caps to block off the hose. It improves the sound at low rpm/idle. So you basically get more burbles and sound when at cruising speed. |
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11-20-2010, 07:03 AM | #5 |
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Be ware, after doing the Golf tee mod alot of people noticed that the actuator stopped working/responding when you reconnect it. Just a warning.
Also this mod gives hidden error codes to the ecu.
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Last edited by Constant.S; 11-20-2010 at 07:12 AM.. |
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11-20-2010, 02:22 PM | #6 |
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Do you have a link to support that?
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11-20-2010, 02:52 PM | #7 |
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Well, i wouldnt have a reason to lie, and google is your friend but there ya go:
These are the links that i "can" show because they are from this forum group. For the other ones i cant because it would be advertising different forums. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=106 http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=141 An about the fuel consumption. http://www.1addicts.com/forums/showp...&postcount=153
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11-20-2010, 04:06 PM | #8 |
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Nobody's going to care if you show a link to another forum if somebody asks for proof. If you're skittish PM me. Several reasons I asked for your link(s) -
1. Yes, face it, people BS on forums. Not saying you BS, but anything is possible. You're a good sport and I appreciate you stepping up and providing some links. 2. Unless you have a forum group that’s really devoted to working on their own cars, 99 percent of forum links prove nothing about mechanical stuff because most people rely on their mechanics to take care of their cars and that's a good thing. Today, more than ever cars are like "black boxes" with all kinds of mystical things going on in there. In principle, but not categorically, I believe people talk about hidden codes in the same way they talk about urban legends. It's "hidden" for the same reason Mel Gibson said in Conspiracy Theory when asked if he could prove it, he said, "No, that's the nature of a good conspiracy, you can't prove it." 3. The links you provided are informative, although I disagree with most of what they are saying: a. I'll buy the solenoid getting stuck which is entirely possible, but I'm sure if he tinkered around it would work properly. b. The car uses vacuum solenoids all over the place and without a sensor to verify operation, it has no way of knowing if the solenoid operated or not unless something else connected with it didn't operate that has a sensor. That muffler solenoid is at the end of the line with no other sensors or other devices. The solenoid operation would cause a very small, virtually unnoticeable change in vacuum pressure and then, virtually instantaneously, go back to normal. That’s happening all the time when you step on the gas and all over the place within the car’s normal vacuum system. The ECU can’t tell the difference. On the other hand, if a person started the car before first blocking the vacuum line it’s possible the ECU would register a significant reduction in vacuum pressure and register a leak code but it wouldn’t know where it happened. It would be up to the mechanic to trace it out. c. Gas mileage would be no different because the vacuum solenoid is opening and closing all the time while you are driving. So how’s leaving it open all the time going to change your gas mileage - except - for the myth that somebody started years ago that exhaust back pressure is a good thing. Look at any race car or talk to the team mechanic and ask him how much exhaust back pressure he likes to use and he'll look at you like you just got off the boat from Mars. Thanks for providing the info. Cheers
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Last edited by teagueAMX; 11-20-2010 at 04:58 PM.. |
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11-20-2010, 04:34 PM | #9 |
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You, sir, made some valid points I was just recycling info i found around that stopped me when i was looking on doing this mod. True, there are some BS out there, but also are some useless DIY mods. Bottom end, its just an actuator no big deal to get it back working as you said.
Cheers
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11-20-2010, 04:57 PM | #10 |
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Cool.
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11-20-2010, 06:17 PM | #11 |
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I did this mod on my 135i which has a single exhaust too with dual tips. Same principle. Look for a tube that connects to a round bell-housing of sorts.
I did not experience a hidden / shadow code as I used a BT scanner to check and none were listed. It only triggers a hidden code when you actually disconnect the electrical plug for the actuator located in the trunk/boot somewhere. |
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11-20-2010, 08:39 PM | #12 |
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Drives: 2011 Z4 35is Melbourne Red
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Teague is 100% correct. No codes or ill affects. A sticky solenoid is certainly possible. The ECU does not monitor non-ecential vacuum. This vacuum application is non-critical and in no way affects the motor. Now if you had a vacuum leak that was related to the motor you would get a code for a lean condition.
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10-09-2014, 09:47 AM | #13 | |
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Quote:
Anyone know if this can be done on the 30i? Or any other mod that could achieve the same effect?? |
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10-09-2014, 09:57 AM | #14 | |
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Quote:
YOU CAN NOT DO A GOLF T MOD FOR 23 or 30i. |
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10-10-2014, 06:31 AM | #15 | |
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Does anyone know if there is a different mod for the 30i that is as easy and would achieve the same effect as the golf t? |
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10-10-2014, 09:06 AM | #16 |
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