[PUREF30cjz]

Ok guys heres some questions to the ones that have a pure stage 2 with supporting mods and drive aggressively in a warm climate. So first lets get the basics out of the way.

2013 BMW 335i xdrive
92k on the odometer
mods

Pure stage 2 turbo latest edition with the tornado looking compressor wheel.
Dorsch stage 1 HPFP
AFE enclosed intake
VRSF 200 cell catted downpipe
CTS charge pipe
Wagner Evo 2 competition intercooler
Custom tune by Wedge still getting it perfect but close
Xhp for trans on stage 4
Xdelete for fun
MHD tuning
NGK plugs 1 step colder gapped at .22

Ok so there are a few small issues, car runs like a raped ape but I have some questions to see what anyone may come up with or have same experience.

1st. I now have a small studder when light throttle usually under load up a hill nothing horrible but noticable and annoying. Happens between 1100 through 2300 rpms most noticable around 1500 to 1700. Logs show nothing and no check engine lights. Car runs amazing never skips a beat any other time WOT is insane and smooth. Only thing that Ken from wedge saw was a weird throttle signal may try a new TB. I have done 2 smoke tests all show its sealed. Cleaned MAF, MAP, and air filter, changed to new plugs, new BMW coils, and no change to the way the car runs.

2nd. SO ever since I changed to the bigger turbo if I try gunning it from a stand still car takes a sec to get going, then bam goes like hell! But if i ease into it then it comes off the line faster. Dont know why it would have a problem getting going I have the Pure inlet option 1 which is the one that requires cutting according to the guys there when I asked they said theres not a noticable difference between the 1 other than looks and cost.

3rd. I have the VRSF 200 cell catted downpipe and was wondering would it be worth it to change to the noncatted that I have?? I already own it and if it would help with spool and be worth a good amount of power Id do it. But have been told its not holding me back. Anyone changed from a highflow cat downpipe to non and noticed a worthwhile difference? I also would like to stay emissions legal but I guess I can always swap ea year if its worth it.

4th and last. So ever since I have done all this .... Yes I drive aggressively and hard. Take it too 7000 rpms constantly ... its way too much fun to play with the new power. Im head tech at a shop and have done a compression check and leak down and both are great and even on all cylinders. I use liquid moly 5W40 oil religiously with new Mann filter. There are no leaks and there isnt any oil smoke coming from the exhaust even under hard acceleration. But I seem to be going through a quart of oil every 1000k. Only thing I have noticed is when I did the stage 1 hpfp I noticed there was a mild amount of carbon on the intake valves and will be walnut blasting it soon. Only other thing I can think of is previous owner ordered a new valve cover from someplace on ebay to save money and dont know if the internal baffling is the same or if its crap and I should change to a bmw one. How normal is the oil useage on these cars with 500+ whp?

Thanks guys

[nickf30n55]

Originally Posted by BMW335icjz

Ok guys heres some questions to the ones that have a pure stage 2 with supporting mods and drive aggressively in a warm climate. So first lets get the basics out of the way.

2013 BMW 335i xdrive
92k on the odometer
mods

Pure stage 2 turbo latest edition with the tornado looking compressor wheel.
Dorsch stage 1 HPFP
AFE enclosed intake
VRSF 200 cell catted downpipe
CTS charge pipe
Wagner Evo 2 competition intercooler
Custom tune by Wedge still getting it perfect but close
Xhp for trans on stage 4
Xdelete for fun
MHD tuning
NGK plugs 1 step colder gapped at .22

Ok so there are a few small issues, car runs like a raped ape but I have some questions to see what anyone may come up with or have same experience.

1st. I now have a small studder when light throttle usually under load up a hill nothing horrible but noticable and annoying. Happens between 1100 through 2300 rpms most noticable around 1500 to 1700. Logs show nothing and no check engine lights. Car runs amazing never skips a beat any other time WOT is insane and smooth. Only thing that Ken from wedge saw was a weird throttle signal may try a new TB. I have done 2 smoke tests all show its sealed. Cleaned MAF, MAP, and air filter, changed to new plugs, new BMW coils, and no change to the way the car runs.

2nd. SO ever since I changed to the bigger turbo if I try gunning it from a stand still car takes a sec to get going, then bam goes like hell! But if i ease into it then it comes off the line faster. Dont know why it would have a problem getting going I have the Pure inlet option 1 which is the one that requires cutting according to the guys there when I asked they said theres not a noticable difference between the 1 other than looks and cost.

3rd. I have the VRSF 200 cell catted downpipe and was wondering would it be worth it to change to the noncatted that I have?? I already own it and if it would help with spool and be worth a good amount of power Id do it. But have been told its not holding me back. Anyone changed from a highflow cat downpipe to non and noticed a worthwhile difference? I also would like to stay emissions legal but I guess I can always swap ea year if its worth it.

4th and last. So ever since I have done all this .... Yes I drive aggressively and hard. Take it too 7000 rpms constantly ... its way too much fun to play with the new power. Im head tech at a shop and have done a compression check and leak down and both are great and even on all cylinders. I use liquid moly 5W40 oil religiously with new Mann filter. There are no leaks and there isnt any oil smoke coming from the exhaust even under hard acceleration. But I seem to be going through a quart of oil every 1000k. Only thing I have noticed is when I did the stage 1 hpfp I noticed there was a mild amount of carbon on the intake valves and will be walnut blasting it soon. Only other thing I can think of is previous owner ordered a new valve cover from someplace on ebay to save money and dont know if the internal baffling is the same or if its crap and I should change to a bmw one. How normal is the oil useage on these cars with 500+ whp?

Thanks guys

Get some data logging done you might need a custom tune problems like this can happen with ots maps since not all cars are equal especially modified ones

[harkes]

Hey!

Another member to the PS2 PWG gang - yay!!! Please do share some logs via Datazap when you get the time. Very interested in seeing how your tune performs

[harkes]

I know you have probably been reading and fallen into the trap of colder and gapped spark plugs. However, I strongly believe that this is only needed IF you experience problems with stock plugs. In all other situations it will be bad for drivability and performance.

I have maxed out the PS2 on 93 and 100% methanol with factory plugs - no issues! Try swapping back your factory plugs and test that out.

Increased oil consumption is completely normal on the N55 driving hard. Mine is also drinking a quart every 1000-1500 miles when I drive hard and do lots of logging.

[Marlinman]

also may want to consider catless DP, there is an instance or two of the cats melting with the upgraded turbo.

[PUREF30cjz]

Originally Posted by harkes

I know you have probably been reading and fallen into the trap of colder and gapped spark plugs. However, I strongly believe that this is only needed IF you experience problems with stock plugs. In all other situations it will be bad for drivability and performance.

I have maxed out the PS2 on 93 and 100% methanol with factory plugs - no issues! Try swapping back your factory plugs and test that out.

Increased oil consumption is completely normal on the N55 driving hard. Mine is also drinking a quart every 1000-1500 miles when I drive hard and do lots of logging.

Good to know about the stock plugs Ill give that a try and see how she runs. Are you running the catless or catted ... and so far no meltdowns looking good inside but if its worth alot of power may change it out.

How is your car off idle can you floor it without a slight bog ?

I have several logs loaded on datazap for wedge I dont know how to load them here message me and if you let me know Ill do so.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by BMW335icjz

Good to know about the stock plugs Ill give that a try and see how she runs. Are you running the catless or catted ... and so far no meltdowns looking good inside but if its worth alot of power may change it out.

How is your car off idle can you floor it without a slight bog ?

I have several logs loaded on datazap for wedge I dont know how to load them here message me and if you let me know Ill do so.

Just provide the direct link to the log on datazap. As long as its public everyone can click the link and see it.

[lens]

Originally Posted by BMW335icjz

Ok guys heres some questions to the ones that have a pure stage 2 with supporting mods and drive aggressively in a warm climate. So first lets get the basics out of the way.

2013 BMW 335i xdrive
92k on the odometer
mods

Pure stage 2 turbo latest edition with the tornado looking compressor wheel.
Dorsch stage 1 HPFP
AFE enclosed intake
VRSF 200 cell catted downpipe
CTS charge pipe
Wagner Evo 2 competition intercooler
Custom tune by Wedge still getting it perfect but close
Xhp for trans on stage 4
Xdelete for fun
MHD tuning
NGK plugs 1 step colder gapped at .22

Ok so there are a few small issues, car runs like a raped ape but I have some questions to see what anyone may come up with or have same experience.

1st. I now have a small studder when light throttle usually under load up a hill nothing horrible but noticable and annoying. Happens between 1100 through 2300 rpms most noticable around 1500 to 1700. Logs show nothing and no check engine lights. Car runs amazing never skips a beat any other time WOT is insane and smooth. Only thing that Ken from wedge saw was a weird throttle signal may try a new TB. I have done 2 smoke tests all show its sealed. Cleaned MAF, MAP, and air filter, changed to new plugs, new BMW coils, and no change to the way the car runs.

2nd. SO ever since I changed to the bigger turbo if I try gunning it from a stand still car takes a sec to get going, then bam goes like hell! But if i ease into it then it comes off the line faster. Dont know why it would have a problem getting going I have the Pure inlet option 1 which is the one that requires cutting according to the guys there when I asked they said theres not a noticable difference between the 1 other than looks and cost.

3rd. I have the VRSF 200 cell catted downpipe and was wondering would it be worth it to change to the noncatted that I have?? I already own it and if it would help with spool and be worth a good amount of power Id do it. But have been told its not holding me back. Anyone changed from a highflow cat downpipe to non and noticed a worthwhile difference? I also would like to stay emissions legal but I guess I can always swap ea year if its worth it.

4th and last. So ever since I have done all this .... Yes I drive aggressively and hard. Take it too 7000 rpms constantly ... its way too much fun to play with the new power. Im head tech at a shop and have done a compression check and leak down and both are great and even on all cylinders. I use liquid moly 5W40 oil religiously with new Mann filter. There are no leaks and there isnt any oil smoke coming from the exhaust even under hard acceleration. But I seem to be going through a quart of oil every 1000k. Only thing I have noticed is when I did the stage 1 hpfp I noticed there was a mild amount of carbon on the intake valves and will be walnut blasting it soon. Only other thing I can think of is previous owner ordered a new valve cover from someplace on ebay to save money and dont know if the internal baffling is the same or if its crap and I should change to a bmw one. How normal is the oil useage on these cars with 500+ whp?

Thanks guys

1) Might be transmission related.
2) Bigger turbo=needs time to spool, you usually won't get any torque or power until 3200-3500rpm+ I usually use brake boost launch control if I do any launches from a dig.
3) You actually have a bigger problem melting the cat which is why most people go full catless as it's less problems in the future, someone a long while back actually melted their high flow cat when they were around the 500-550whp mark.
4) Higher rpm you spend time in, the more oil it'll burn, it's common for all motorsports engines, they have a bulletin board where some M cars go can go through a quart and a half and it's considered normal if they drive it in the high rpms alot. Just keep a 5L jug of oil in the back. You'll burn alot more when you upgrade the turbo.

[harkes]

Originally Posted by BMW335icjz

Good to know about the stock plugs Ill give that a try and see how she runs. Are you running the catless or catted ... and so far no meltdowns looking good inside but if its worth alot of power may change it out.

How is your car off idle can you floor it without a slight bog ?

I have several logs loaded on datazap for wedge I dont know how to load them here message me and if you let me know Ill do so.

I dont have any issues with drivability of my car