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      05-20-2013, 08:22 PM   #1
z4z4z4
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Installed new REAR pads in driveway


Here's a thousand words to be replaced by pictures soon. This is what I did.
I recommend that brake work should be performed by trained brake specialist/mechanics. You are not encouraged to try this at home. Just sharing what I did to successfully replace my electronic actuated emergency brake pads without using a computer/e-tool/dealership.

I blocked the front wheels. Jacked up the passenger side, the side with pad sensor on rear, since my dashboard has been telling me to replace rear pads for the last 1000 miles. Jackstands in place. Removed the right rear wheel. Car locked, e-brake off and Computer asleep. Don't want to wake it while ebrake motor is removed. Unplugged the electrical connector to brake motor. Removed 2 brake motor fasteners, T-30 Torx. Removed motor. Used 6mm Hex bit in socket of brake piston where motor drive interfaces, clockwise until stopped. I turned the piston interface the wrong direction on purpose and found that it stops within only a few turns same as e-motor applying the brakes (you can check your brake disc if its locked or if it has a little play), Then I turned the other direction 12-15 turns.
Now performed nominal brake pad removal tasks by removing 2 13mm brake pad housing bolts. Used a 15mm open end wrench to assist removal of 13mm bolts. Removed the brake pad housing. Removed pad sensor wire on inside pad. Removed both pads. Removed pad sliders (formed sheet metal pieces). Cleaned under old sliders, installed new. Installed new outside pad. Manually pressed brake Piston back into cylinder to allow new inside pad installation. I did not need to worry about brake fluid runover. It's only 15-16mm of worn pad travel you're displacing. I could have started this job with hood open and watched reservoir level of brake fluid. No turning the piston, just press piston with manly hands or small 2 arm threaded puller, etc. With pads in place reinstalled old or a new pad sensor on inside pad. Installed the pad housing. Torqued and used thread lock on 2 13mm housing bolts. Turned the piston the opposite direction to stop position and then backoff one full turn using 6mm hex in piston/motor interface. Now reinstalled motor, BUT did not force the motor drive into the piston interface. It is a sweet interface with 12 point motor drive easily finding "home" in the piston socket. Reinstall/torqued with thread fastener the 2 T-30 Torx motor housing bolts, but forgot to replace U bracket under the bolts before bolting together. Had to back up a step by removing torx fasteners. The motor housing is plastic. Use a short wratchet to avoid abuse. Plugged in the motor, routed the brake pad sensor as required using retaining features to manage cable.
Before installing my wheel I unlocked the car, opened my passenger window to best listen for any havoc. Turned on engine, pumped brakes a few times......then pulled the ebrake switch. Sweet and short tightening motor sound. Released brake. Retightened and released a few times. All was well. Opened hood, no brake fluid overflow. Reinstalled wheel/tire.
When I restarted there was the service notice and still had the BRAKE light on. NO panic. Time to drive 5 miles to allow reset. Bedded the brakes with a five or six 45 to 20 mph cycles. NO noise. Dashboard Brake Light went away. Now to try a reset of rear brake service reminder in the dash. Plenty of youtube help for that.
Here are a few pics to prove I didn't dream this.
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      05-20-2013, 09:23 PM   #2
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Wow
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      06-02-2013, 04:11 AM   #3
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Thanks for this will be doing this shortly. Pretty much what i was going to do. Nice to know it all works out.

Well just done the above. I found it easier to remove the whole assembly by removing the two 16mm bolts holding the caliper on, as i found it difficult to get my tools on the gearbox torx screws. Plus once off, could give it all a good clean and painted before reassembly.

Last edited by bigendbob; 06-03-2013 at 11:09 AM.
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      06-05-2013, 07:40 PM   #4
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Ta Dah!!



Congratulations bigendbob!!

Today I finally completed my service reset issue for the rear brake pads.
I had attempted to perform Service Reset without replacing the pad sensor cable. Yesterday I bought new one from my dealer and made a big smile to see the mileage reset to 28000 miles. It was an education for me that the sensor is a two wire /two stage design. I had worn through the first and second level and ignorantly tried to reuse the sensor as we use to do decades ago. Here's a few helpful pics for familarity with sensor wire/connection.
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      06-06-2013, 05:11 PM   #5
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I have had the same problem with the brake wear sensor warning. Just ordered one.
I initially wondered if i could bypass by just connecting the two wires and bypassing the sensor.
Didn't known if the sensor just short out onto disc as per a single wire unit, but why two wires. you have answered that quuestion.
Thanks.
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      06-06-2013, 05:41 PM   #6
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My intel is from the internet, so it must be correct.
The operational scenario, exaggerated, goes like this: If your driving style wears the pads into the first sensor wire by 1000 miles, the computer now knows Your wear rate and since the computer is programmed to know the remaining pad thickness it can then predict (shown on Nav) the remaining miles of life until the second sensor is reached... at which time the Lift lamp is thrown on the cluster. You can see the sensor topography supports this description and my picture of the old sensor shows that I had flattened all features on it. Yes the old style sensors simply completed the circuit and enabled a warning light. We could install new pads and reuse the sensor wire which would once again establish an open circuit until we wore down the pads to the sensor and completed the circuit again, a little later than a new sensor since we used some material. Now the sensors are smart and not merely analog electro mechanical devices. Someday the wear rate will be transmitted to the authorities and we will receive a fine for exhibiting 20th century road manners.
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      06-06-2013, 05:45 PM   #7
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      07-18-2013, 06:11 PM   #8
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Great work!
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      07-25-2013, 03:32 PM   #9
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Nice write ups. Thanx
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      01-25-2014, 08:10 PM   #10
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Just performed exact operation in my driveway. Piece of cake and saved a few hundred.
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      01-25-2014, 09:59 PM   #11
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      03-26-2014, 08:25 AM   #12
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Few brake-related questions I was hoping someone could chime in about:

1. So it's one sensor per axel? Any experience with aftermarket sensors? I saw some on Tirerack and am intrigued because they look to be 1/3 the price.

2. What is a fair price to pay for a dealer or private shop to charge to install new brake pads and sensors on the front and rear?

3. If I'm not having any issues like squealing or vibrations etc., can I assume the rotors are still a safe thickness? The car is an 09 and has 50K. I'm trying to keep costs down and don't want to replace them if it's unnecessary.

4. If the computer is saying I need new rear pads (can't recall which it's saying need to be replaced), should I just replace all four corners?

Thanks in advance

Last edited by silverstone_ttlz4; 03-26-2014 at 08:37 AM.
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      04-09-2014, 09:20 AM   #13
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There is a sensor on right rear and another on left front.

Replacing pads without measuring remaining rotor thickness or ignoring the worn rotor .....would be irresponsible.

I only replaced rear. Front system lasts longer since the rear also perform e-differrential function.
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      04-09-2014, 09:35 AM   #14
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What are some good low-dust options for the rear?
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      07-16-2014, 09:35 AM   #15
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I finally got my new rotors and am going to give this a try soon. Going to replace front and rears.

Do you have a part number for the sensors?
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      07-17-2014, 11:18 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hujan View Post
I finally got my new rotors and am going to give this a try soon. Going to replace front and rears.

Do you have a part number for the sensors?
Front:34356792563
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-23...-bmw-part.aspx

Rear:34356792566
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-23...-bmw-part.aspx

These are dealer prices so you may as well go to your dealership, or shop on line by just googleing the part numbers for other parts house options.


please goto realoem.com, enter your last 7 digits of your vin# and confirm in the BRAKES section your part numbers. I notice your Z4 is 2010, mine is 2011 and my part #s state after 3/2010 build date.
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Last edited by z4z4z4; 07-17-2014 at 11:28 PM. Reason: add realoem
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      07-18-2014, 05:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z4z4z4 View Post
Front:34356792563
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-23...-bmw-part.aspx

Rear:34356792566
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-23...-bmw-part.aspx

These are dealer prices so you may as well go to your dealership, or shop on line by just googleing the part numbers for other parts house options.


please goto realoem.com, enter your last 7 digits of your vin# and confirm in the BRAKES section your part numbers. I notice your Z4 is 2010, mine is 2011 and my part #s state after 3/2010 build date.
Thank you! I appreciate it!
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      07-20-2014, 10:28 PM   #18
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Okay, got the sensors on order and rotors arrived last week.

You guessed correctly that the parts numbers are different for cars built prior to March 2010. Mine is a 2009 build date (10/2009) to be exact. It was one of the first MY 2010s. Anyway, here are the correct part numbers for cars with a build date before 03/2010:

Front: 34356789444

Rear: 34356789446


Does anyone recommend a particular tool to spread the pistons apart?
.
.
.
.

Last edited by Hujan; 07-23-2014 at 04:32 PM.
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      07-28-2014, 07:22 PM   #19
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Okay, guys. I knocked this out this weekend using the steps "z4z4z4" provided in the OP. A couple of notes:

1) I actually used a torx bit to turn the e-brake motor clockwise (I believe a 40). I was worried it might break something, but there was almost no resistance at all. After turning that gear/motor until it stopped, I was able to press the piston using a C-clamp. Everything seems to be working fine and no error codes.

2) I found it easier to loosen and remove the 13 mm bolts holding the bracket onto the caliper first, then loosen the 18 mm bolts holding the caliper to the hub assembly. Otherwise, that top 18 mm bolt is a PITA to get to and will almost certainly be "frozen" if your car has any mileage at all. I needed a rubber mallet, a box wrench, and some WD40 to get them moving. I removed the 18 mm bolts first on the passenger side but did the 13 mm bolts first on the driver's side and the latter was much easier.

The only bummer was that ECS sent me the wrong pads for the rear, so do be careful if you have a Z4 built before March 2010 (which is when BMW apparently changed the design). At least I think that was the problem. I had to source some ceramic pads on a Sunday afternoon and my parts guy at BMW Encinitas came through for me. Good guy he is.

Other than that, I popped on the new rotors and ceramic pads without too much incident. Someday I'll flush the brake fluid and maybe throw on some SS lines.

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      08-04-2014, 10:33 PM   #20
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Great feedback to our online procedure. That's at least 4 members sharing pride and independence for this operation.

Good job and congrats!
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      08-05-2014, 06:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z4z4z4 View Post


Great feedback to our online procedure. That's at least 4 members sharing pride and independence for this operation.

Good job and congrats!
Thanks! Though all the credit goes to you. Your instructions were spot on. It made a lot of sense once I got the car apart and started looking at it. I just had your post opened up on my iPad next to the car while I was doing it. So thanks for being a pioneer!
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