Rear Brake Pads Need Changing - Anyone Changed Their Own? - New 2009 2010 BMW Z4

davidmbell · 07-28-2011, 02:51 AM

My car has started telling me the rear brake pads need changing very soon.

I've been to local stealership and its the best part of £270!!!!!!!

Now I know this car is a little more advanced than my old Mazda MX-5, but this is crazy money.

Quote : http://www.davidmbell.com/z4/pads_quote.jpg

Has anyone done the change themselves? I've changed discs and pads on my MX-5 before, but the dealer insists that I need to take it to them so that it can be connected to their diagnostics machine to tell the e-brake to release the pads.

Surely I just chock the wheels, or jack the whole thing up, and manually release the brake from in the car?

As for the service light, I've seen video's on how to access the reset menu, I assume as long as I change the wear sensor before I reset it then it will be fine?

Any help much appreciated.

David

davidmbell · 07-30-2011, 03:26 AM

Nobody?

ChuckB · 07-30-2011, 01:37 PM

I have one of the first 09 model, and have not had to replace them yet. Currently have 42,000 I'm on the car and the the 'puter says then next check is in 10,000 km.

Ramius · 07-31-2011, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidmbell

Has anyone done the change themselves? but the dealer insists that I need to take it to them so that it can be connected to their diagnostics machine to tell the e-brake to release the pads.

This is fully correct!! The e-brake has to be put in a certain mode in order to release the pressure on the brakepads. This is only possible when the car is hooked up to the computer... sad but true

(bin there, tried it, but failed...)

Ramius · 07-31-2011, 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckB

I have one of the first 09 model, and have not had to replace them yet. Currently have 42,000 I'm on the car and the the 'puter says then next check is in 10,000 km.

Wow, my first warning came at 32,000km and replaced them 2,000km later.

BOGONY · 08-02-2011, 07:20 AM

Too bad you are not in USA
Just had them done under warranty
It appears to be more than a do it yourself job

Auraraptor · 08-02-2011, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ramius

This is fully correct!! The e-brake has to be put in a certain mode in order to release the pressure on the brakepads. This is only possible when the car is hooked up to the computer... sad but true

(bin there, tried it, but failed...)

Really? Even just having it 'off' won't so it?

fojd6897 · 07-16-2012, 12:51 AM

Brake calliper remove then,

Turn the brake piston to the clockwise until complete stop with the IPS WL-270S ( below-mentioned tool ).

http://www.levelchrome.com/IPS-WL270...ers_p_102.html

bigendbob · 08-06-2012, 06:22 PM

The above method looks like it might work, but always danger of damaging seal.

Having studied what little i can find i will be going along the path, jack up vehicle, ebrake off, disconnect plug at calipers, remove motor gearbox assembly, release bleed nipple and screw back piston from the motor drive end. Insert pads, refit motor and plug, replicate on opposite side, then lower vehicle and set ebrake to park then drive carefully. Hopefully the ebrake adjusts to take up slack and finds its new position.

There was some suggestion in a document about the only way to release in an emergency is to remove ebrake motor/gearbox.

Anybody tried this.

raven333 · 08-07-2012, 04:21 AM

Hi! You are correct! Believe it or not there is no easy way to release the handbrake if it is stuck on! there is a release procedure you described but basically the average motorist is stuffed.
The other issue about a rear DIY brake job is that the cars monitoring system does not know that new pads have been added as the cars release code has not been used, apparently , but not sure, the reason for this is that the motor drive travel is monitored probably so it does not overdrive into the disc when the brakes is off!!!!
I do not mean just resetting the Idrive to set the next replacement interval.
There is a brilliant article which identifies all the new changes for the E89 over the previous models and describes in detail all the operations including the Electric hand brake, roof mechanism etc. You can download as a PDF and store, makes a great reference document. It is on this site as a thread!!!!!

I enjoy doing basic maintenance and even bought a new set of rear pads, now stuffed as I do not have a coding machine. They are on sale for about £120 just for doing this job and nothing else. Only worth buying if the independents start charging a fortune......
Looks like I will have to go to an independent with the right equipment to do the rears but I will do the fronts. The same will be when I need to do the discs which is a long way off!!!

I have checked the E65 sites has they have had this system for years, and it is fitted to lots of other manufacturers,

fojd6897 · 08-10-2012, 09:12 PM

[quote=bigendbob;12456718]The above method looks like it might work, but always danger of damaging seal.

I think, there are no problems, It's just dust cover.

raven333 · 08-11-2012, 07:57 AM

Hi! Even reading the last post does not tell you how to change the rear pads....
A word of warning to those removing the dust covers....
On my last 6 series I had to refurbish one of my callipers, replacing all of the rubber grommets, piston and the dust cap.
Everyone thought that the dust cap was the same across all the models BUT BMW have used a new method to secure the dust cap to the piston and judging by the above diagrams it is the same approach on the newer models including the E89.
It is very difficult unless you have a special tool (no surprise there it being BMW ). The pistons are different sizes front to rear so you need two special tools. Moral if your dust covers are in good condition then leave alone just give them a clean.....even the rubber grommets are a real pig to change!!!!!

bigendbob · 01-01-2013, 11:37 AM

Its interesting to see that pic from the service manual. Looks like those cutouts are intended to allow the piston to be screwed back in.
I think the initial problem is backing off the pads to clear a worn disc, so i'm tempted to go the route of removing the motor gear assembly, then gently turn the shaft sticking out of caliper to retract the piston. Might have to bleed off some brake fluid via bleed nipple. The differences document seems to suggest that the ebrake will reset itself on new pads.
The only way i can think this works is that the electrics sees a current change to motor when it stalls due to brake application, so telling computer the brake is applied. The document also suggests a retension when brakes cool, so again motor runs until it hits a pre determined stall current then cuts out.
Will find out soon as one pad as 2mm left. According the the service that supposed to be good for another 14000 miles!

Well just looked at the new brake pads i have. The piston cutouts could be to engage into the pads that have small pins sticking out, perhaps to stop rotation of piston when the ebrake operates.

morfinx · 01-01-2013, 06:50 PM

Can't you take it to an independent shop? It'll probably be cheaper than the dealership.

raven333 · 01-08-2013, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigendbob

Its interesting to see that pic from the service manual. Looks like those cutouts are intended to allow the piston to be screwed back in.
I think the initial problem is backing off the pads to clear a worn disc, so i'm tempted to go the route of removing the motor gear assembly, then gently turn the shaft sticking out of caliper to retract the piston. Might have to bleed off some brake fluid via bleed nipple. The differences document seems to suggest that the ebrake will reset itself on new pads.
The only way i can think this works is that the electrics sees a current change to motor when it stalls due to brake application, so telling computer the brake is applied. The document also suggests a retension when brakes cool, so again motor runs until it hits a pre determined stall current then cuts out.
Will find out soon as one pad as 2mm left. According the the service that supposed to be good for another 14000 miles!

Well just looked at the new brake pads i have. The piston cutouts could be to engage into the pads that have small pins sticking out, perhaps to stop rotation of piston when the ebrake operates.

I normally do all my own pad and disc changes, even bought a rear set of pads as they wear quite quickly only to find you need to code the car. There is a very interesting PDF on here within one of the threads which describes many operations on the car, especially the parking brake and how to change the pads!!!! Fair to say doing what you suggested not the right way, but there is a company selling a tool which electronically backs of the piston in order to change the pads!!!!!

z4z4z4 · 01-16-2013, 09:32 PM

http://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthre...highlight=0500

The p0500 has the e-brake data.

bigendbob · 01-24-2013, 12:04 PM

Whats needed is this;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autel-EBS3...item337ce9a9eb
Might be a worthwhile investment.

07-28-2011, 02:51 AM	#1
davidmbell Private First Class Drives: 2009 Z4 SDrive35i Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Leeds/Bradford - UK Posts: 110 iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 Z4 SDrive35i [0.00]	Rear Brake Pads Need Changing - Anyone Changed Their Own? My car has started telling me the rear brake pads need changing very soon. I've been to local stealership and its the best part of £270!!!!!!! Now I know this car is a little more advanced than my old Mazda MX-5, but this is crazy money. Quote : http://www.davidmbell.com/z4/pads_quote.jpg Has anyone done the change themselves? I've changed discs and pads on my MX-5 before, but the dealer insists that I need to take it to them so that it can be connected to their diagnostics machine to tell the e-brake to release the pads. Surely I just chock the wheels, or jack the whole thing up, and manually release the brake from in the car? As for the service light, I've seen video's on how to access the reset menu, I assume as long as I change the wear sensor before I reset it then it will be fine? Any help much appreciated. David __________________ 2009 Z4 SDrive35i Deep Sea Blue Pure White Design + Loads of other gear : ) www.z4bmw.co.uk
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07-30-2011, 03:26 AM	#2
davidmbell Private First Class Drives: 2009 Z4 SDrive35i Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Leeds/Bradford - UK Posts: 110 iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 Z4 SDrive35i [0.00]	Nobody? __________________ 2009 Z4 SDrive35i Deep Sea Blue Pure White Design + Loads of other gear : ) www.z4bmw.co.uk

07-30-2011, 01:37 PM	#3
ChuckB Lieutenant Drives: 2009 BMW Z4 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Hockenheim, Germany (APO) Posts: 444 iTrader: (0) Garage List 2009 Z4 sDrive 3.0 [0.00] 2007 120d M-Sport L ... [0.00]	I have one of the first 09 model, and have not had to replace them yet. Currently have 42,000 I'm on the car and the the 'puter says then next check is in 10,000 km. __________________ 2007 E81 - 120d Limited Sport Ed 2009 E89 - sDrive3.0

07-16-2012, 12:51 AM	#8
fojd6897 Registered Drives: bmw E89 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: asia Posts: 2 iTrader: (0)	I replaced rear brake pad. Brake calliper remove then, Turn the brake piston to the clockwise until complete stop with the IPS WL-270S ( below-mentioned tool ). http://www.levelchrome.com/IPS-WL270...ers_p_102.html

08-07-2012, 04:21 AM	#10
raven333 Private First Class Drives: Sapphire Black 3.0siM sport Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 158 iTrader: (0)	Hi! You are correct! Believe it or not there is no easy way to release the handbrake if it is stuck on! there is a release procedure you described but basically the average motorist is stuffed. The other issue about a rear DIY brake job is that the cars monitoring system does not know that new pads have been added as the cars release code has not been used, apparently , but not sure, the reason for this is that the motor drive travel is monitored probably so it does not overdrive into the disc when the brakes is off!!!! I do not mean just resetting the Idrive to set the next replacement interval. There is a brilliant article which identifies all the new changes for the E89 over the previous models and describes in detail all the operations including the Electric hand brake, roof mechanism etc. You can download as a PDF and store, makes a great reference document. It is on this site as a thread!!!!! I enjoy doing basic maintenance and even bought a new set of rear pads, now stuffed as I do not have a coding machine. They are on sale for about £120 just for doing this job and nothing else. Only worth buying if the independents start charging a fortune...... Looks like I will have to go to an independent with the right equipment to do the rears but I will do the fronts. The same will be when I need to do the discs which is a long way off!!! I have checked the E65 sites has they have had this system for years, and it is fitted to lots of other manufacturers, Last edited by raven333; 08-07-2012 at 04:30 AM.

08-02-2011, 07:20 AM	#6
BOGONY Enlisted Member Drives: 2012 335i cab /2011 535 XI Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: NY Posts: 46 iTrader: (0)	Too bad you are not in USA Just had them done under warranty It appears to be more than a do it yourself job

08-06-2012, 06:22 PM	#9
bigendbob Enlisted Member Drives: z4 23i Orion Silver Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: west midlands Posts: 35 iTrader: (0)	The above method looks like it might work, but always danger of damaging seal. Having studied what little i can find i will be going along the path, jack up vehicle, ebrake off, disconnect plug at calipers, remove motor gearbox assembly, release bleed nipple and screw back piston from the motor drive end. Insert pads, refit motor and plug, replicate on opposite side, then lower vehicle and set ebrake to park then drive carefully. Hopefully the ebrake adjusts to take up slack and finds its new position. There was some suggestion in a document about the only way to release in an emergency is to remove ebrake motor/gearbox. Anybody tried this.

08-10-2012, 09:12 PM	#11
fojd6897 Registered Drives: bmw E89 Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: asia Posts: 2 iTrader: (0)	[quote=bigendbob;12456718]The above method looks like it might work, but always danger of damaging seal. I think, there are no problems, It's just dust cover. Attached Images Last edited by fojd6897; 08-10-2012 at 09:36 PM.

08-11-2012, 07:57 AM	#12
raven333 Private First Class Drives: Sapphire Black 3.0siM sport Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 158 iTrader: (0)	Hi! Even reading the last post does not tell you how to change the rear pads.... A word of warning to those removing the dust covers.... On my last 6 series I had to refurbish one of my callipers, replacing all of the rubber grommets, piston and the dust cap. Everyone thought that the dust cap was the same across all the models BUT BMW have used a new method to secure the dust cap to the piston and judging by the above diagrams it is the same approach on the newer models including the E89. It is very difficult unless you have a special tool (no surprise there it being BMW ). The pistons are different sizes front to rear so you need two special tools. Moral if your dust covers are in good condition then leave alone just give them a clean.....even the rubber grommets are a real pig to change!!!!!

01-01-2013, 11:37 AM	#13
bigendbob Enlisted Member Drives: z4 23i Orion Silver Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: west midlands Posts: 35 iTrader: (0)	Its interesting to see that pic from the service manual. Looks like those cutouts are intended to allow the piston to be screwed back in. I think the initial problem is backing off the pads to clear a worn disc, so i'm tempted to go the route of removing the motor gear assembly, then gently turn the shaft sticking out of caliper to retract the piston. Might have to bleed off some brake fluid via bleed nipple. The differences document seems to suggest that the ebrake will reset itself on new pads. The only way i can think this works is that the electrics sees a current change to motor when it stalls due to brake application, so telling computer the brake is applied. The document also suggests a retension when brakes cool, so again motor runs until it hits a pre determined stall current then cuts out. Will find out soon as one pad as 2mm left. According the the service that supposed to be good for another 14000 miles! Well just looked at the new brake pads i have. The piston cutouts could be to engage into the pads that have small pins sticking out, perhaps to stop rotation of piston when the ebrake operates. Last edited by bigendbob; 01-01-2013 at 11:44 AM.

01-01-2013, 06:50 PM	#14
morfinx Shenanigans Drives: E89 Z4 sDrive35i Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 1,097 iTrader: (0)	Can't you take it to an independent shop? It'll probably be cheaper than the dealership. __________________ E89 Z4 sDrive35i 7DCT "Zayna", Alpine White/Coral Red E92 335i 6MT "Calixta", Space Grey/Coral Red [Retired]

01-16-2013, 09:32 PM	#16
z4z4z4 First Lieutenant Drives: 2002 M3, 2011 Z4, & her 740Li Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: mild mediterranean breezes Posts: 386 iTrader: (1)	link to pdf link mentioned earlier http://e89.zpost.com/forums/showthre...highlight=0500 The p0500 has the e-brake data. __________________

01-24-2013, 12:04 PM	#17
bigendbob Enlisted Member Drives: z4 23i Orion Silver Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: west midlands Posts: 35 iTrader: (0)	Whats needed is this; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autel-EBS3...item337ce9a9eb Might be a worthwhile investment.

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