Dreaded A68D error code on Microswitch Roof shell 2

[Rah-Vee]

After getting that error code I began looking around at the inside wires on the passenger side and saw 2 wires that looked like they were frayed. I unraveled the black cloth tape and saw 2 wires a brown and yellow broken off but I couldn't figure out what they were connected to. I'm assuming the passenger microswitch but I'm not able to figure out how. There is a bundle of wires attached with some strong metal clips running inside the roof. Anyone happen to know what they connect with? Or a wiring diagram which shows each wire.

[RobbiZ4]

Yelow/Brown are the 2 wires of the hall sensor "roof shell 2, packed" on the right side of the car.

These wires bend around the front (left on your pic) in parallel to the 2 hydraulic hoses. Both end in a black 2-pole plug housing connecting the hall sensor.



But - there on the (left), wires NEVER break! Wires will only break on the right bow in the top, where you can hardly see anything from your perspective.

[Rah-Vee]

Thanks! I realized after that I rerouted that hall sensor cable months ago and forgot. That info by process of elimination led me to the brown / green brown which would be the microswitch. After testing with jumper cables I found that the broken wire for the microswitch is in the roof. So I pulled the headliner out and put in a jumper from the microswitch all the way through to where the other end routes back into the trunk and it fixed the 68D error!
What is the consensus on the best wire to use when replacing all the wires, for now I'm using a softer 22ga speaker wire temporally.

[RobbiZ4]

Originally Posted by Rah-Vee

What is the consensus on the best wire to use when replacing all the wires, for now I'm using a softer 22ga speaker wire temporally.

Perfect!

Here you can see my solution:

⌛E89: Retractable Hardtop (roof) Maintenance (and additional) tasks
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic...61524#p1861524

[Rah-Vee]

After having my top working for a few weeks after I replaced the wiring once again the top started to act upon opening and closing. It began by opening and then stopping halfway and the same with the closing both giving the A696 and sometime A692 error codes. It seems even though I replaced the wires for both sides up to where the top of the arm is going into the trunk for both the microswitches its now failing again. The final draw was when the top was open and then because of the A696 microswitch left error the sequence to close would not work at all. And thus the roof was stuck in the open position. Luckily the Trunk would still allow me to open it. From this opening the trunk on the left you can just barely gain access to the B pillar wires on the left side. I had to remove the screws holding the separator lid to give me enough wiggle room to get my hands in there to wiggle the wires around. After a few tugs the Microswitch 2 error cleared and i was able to start the sequence to get the roof into service mode. From there I began troubleshooting my wiring. As it turns out the degradation of the microswitch wire goes much further than just the top of the arm going into the trunk. I had to start from inside the trunk where the wire goes deep into the trunk where there is a big bundle of wiring on both the left and right side.

On the left side if you look at the very base of the arm that goes into the floorboard of the trunk there is a bundle of wires covered with cloth. you'll need to cut this open. in there will be a Brown and Light brown wire. For testing I cut it right there and wired in a new microswitch I purposed and this cleared the Microswitch Left error:
Here is the left looking down when the top is in the service position:

The roof could now move back and forth with no issue. So i rerouted the wire all the way from the roof into the trunk.
When the wiring for the left switch sensor is bad the roof doesn't move at all or stops in different phases it takes time to unravel all the wiring to wiggle each part to get the roof moving. I had the same problem with the microswitch on the right side, so once again from inside the trunk I cut the bundle and found the Brown / Green Brown wires and cut them.I put in my purchased microswitch as a bypass to get the roof to clear the error and start its movement again. Also if the right side microswitch wiring is bad you cannot close windows nor open your trunk. Here is pic of the right side where I spliced inside the trunk:



This is my test microswitch I use from inside the trunk to bypass all the wiring.




Once I get some time I want to dig under all the trunk flooring to find where both side of the micrswitch wires originate and then I will replace with a new flexible wire as the BMW one looks horrible, it cracks upon touching it.

[RobbiZ4]

A696 - hall sensor, open circuit, closing movement, rear-end module
That is from the rear hallsensor with the red wire on the right coupling fastener. In most cases there are traces of rust as the housings will crack over years. Can be replaced with a cheaper one from an E88.

A692 - Microswitch, rear-end module closed, right
This is one of the two microswitches I recommend to replace after 10 years due to their aging. They are positioned on the top of the coupling fasteners on both side of the trunk lid.

Details on the following page:

⌛E89: Retractable Hardtop (roof) Maintenance (and additional) tasks
https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=130932

[javis20]

RobbiZ4 uses Lify cable, but they don't sell that here in the USA. And to import it is a PIA. So an alternative is ChainFlex which is sold by Grainger Industrial supply.

Chainflex® control cable CF9 CF9.05.02 (2 wires 0.5mm2) and CF9.03.05.INI 52 wires 0.34mm2)

The Hall sensor for the A696 error is 54-34 -7-190-735.

I make a note of everything Robbi says. Definitely read his "Retractable Hardtop Maintenance" thread. It's the BMW convertible top gospel !

[RobbiZ4]

Originally Posted by javis20

I make a note of everything Robbi says.

Ui, I've got a stalker.

Welcome.

[RobbiZ4]

Originally Posted by javis20

RobbiZ4 uses Lify cable, but they don't sell that here in the USA.

That's interesting, as LiFY is a quality, not a product. It is just a wire with thinner and more
strands(?). Ok, got it from Wikipedia: it's a German DIN definition.

In general, 0,25mm² is sufficient for these sensor lines as far as they are high flexible.

Silicone wire is not quite right, as it has a high-temperature insulation that feels more flexible. But a flexible core is more important. And this is defined as AWG xy.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge