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      05-13-2014, 11:25 AM   #67
mbetoni
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My climate control is the little button above the gear shift that makes the roof ballet happen .

I'm sorry, I couldn't resist.
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      05-28-2014, 08:33 AM   #68
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Heat ?

I was wondering if engine heat is turning off the AC. I noticed that when I lock/unlock the car (cold engine) using remote, the alarm feedback tone sounds normal like any other BMW. But after starting the car and let it run idle (without driving) for 30-45mnts, turn off the engine and lock/unlock the car using remote, it sounds different - it sounds as if somebody is squeezing the alarm and make it squeak. This is a telltale sign that AC will stop working shortly - either same day or in a day or two.
Anybody noticed this ?
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      05-28-2014, 03:31 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuddapah View Post
But after starting the car and let it run idle (without driving) for 30-45mnts,
why would you leave it idling for so long? Seems like a total waste of fuel
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      05-28-2014, 03:45 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicknaz View Post
why would you leave it idling for so long? Seems like a total waste of fuel
Just to heat up the engine for testing.
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      05-28-2014, 05:24 PM   #71
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I suspect that Battery power has got something to do with it. I was having the panel non-responsiveness on my old dying battery. Once replaced, I have only seen this happen once and restarting the car fixed it.
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      05-28-2014, 10:28 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cuddapah View Post
Just to heat up the engine for testing.
Besides wasting fuel, that can't be good for the car. Our Z4s are made to start and go, maybe 1 min tops to get the fluids going. Idling that long is a no-no.

Anyway, I've tried starting the car the regular way and so far so good for 1 mth or so. Maybe they did finally fix it during one of my service visits w/ an update of sorts. Fingers crossed/no jinx.
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      05-29-2014, 06:27 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
Our Z4s are made to start and go, maybe 1 min tops to get the fluids going. Idling that long is a no-no.
Maybe not only our Z4s. My E60 M5 manual specifically pointed out that the car should not be idled for extended periods - maybe 30 seconds after a cold start but then warm everything up by modest driving which gets not only the engine but the gearbox and differential warm together. I also remember reading that some BMW engines would get excessive carbon build up in the heads if idled for long periods.

And maybe more on point with this discussion - to the extent that Efficient Dynamics are implemented on a Z4, battery charging is done largely through regenerative braking (the alternator is asked for maximum output during braking) and at idle either doesn't charge, or only minimally charges if the battery is getting low. It's very possible that the battery would be low after an extended period of time at idle simply because the alternator really isn't charging it.
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      05-29-2014, 06:10 PM   #74
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^Sure, that's pretty much a given that long idles aren't good for many cars/engines.
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      05-29-2014, 07:17 PM   #75
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"Idling" just to check the issue ... not everyday thing :-) Thanks !
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      07-16-2014, 11:39 PM   #76
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Ok, been starting the car for a few mths w/ the normal way of pressing brake then the start button. I guess that BMW finally figured out this glitch. No more need for the T-Fix.
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      08-09-2014, 03:57 AM   #77
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I finally figure out how to prevent this malfunction

This consistently happens to my z4 when I connect my android cellphone into the charger through a USB line to the phone BEFORE I START THE ENGINE. It also happens when I already have my cellphone connected to the usb through charger during a drive and I turned off the engine before I disconnect the cellphone. You must disconnect the cellphone from the charger before you turn off the engine, or else, the next you get in your car. All the function in the dash won't work, especially the air condition during hot summer
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      08-26-2014, 03:52 PM   #78
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^I don't think that it has anything to do w/ the phone although I always have my ipod connected to the USB/audio jack outlets.

Anyway, my T-Fix has been 99% effective but it did not work for that 1% of the time. I had been trying to start the car the 'regular way' but the prb has re-occurred sometimes. I'm now trying another method where I press the start button to get the HVAC lights on/working and then I press the brake and start button to crank the engine.
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      08-26-2014, 04:33 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
^I don't think that it has anything to do w/ the phone although I always have my ipod connected to the USB/audio jack outlets.

Anyway, my T-Fix has been 99% effective but it did not work for that 1% of the time. I had been trying to start the car the 'regular way' but the prb has re-occurred sometimes. I'm now trying another method where I press the start button to get the HVAC lights on/working and then I press the brake and start button to crank the engine.
Do you know current level of IHKA ?
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      08-26-2014, 04:39 PM   #80
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^What is "IHKA"?
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      08-26-2014, 06:49 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
^What is "IHKA"?
IHKA is German ... stands for "Intergriertes Heizung und Klima Automatic". It is the module that controls climate. In one of the threads here somebody mentioned a software update fixed AC issue.

Some more info: Looks like your Z4 is similar to mine - 2011 Z4 sDrive 35i. My Z4 too had this infamous AC shutdown issue among several other issues. BMW Service Manager acknowledged the issue. But they couldn't find any fault codes and so they didn't fix it. AC stopped working several times and starts again after engine cools down. I tried your T-fix too. Didn't work for me. For another issue, BMW replaced DWA Siren module and reprogrammed the car. Before reprogramming, IHKA module's s/w was at 9314053. After reprogramming, it is at 9321829 (the latest at that time was 9321830). I did notice AC flicker now and then. So I can't say software update fixed the issue. An experienced tech checked my car and said that engine is unusually generating too much heat. This heat blows mostly towards the left side of the car, damaging siren (my car siren was replaced) and causes some AC components in its way to heat up. So AC stops working. When the engine and AC components cool down, AC module gets reset and starts working. I would suggest you to request your service manager to update software and reprogram the car. If AC continues to stop, get the car checked by an experienced tech.

Last edited by cuddapah; 08-26-2014 at 08:22 PM..
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      08-27-2014, 02:23 AM   #82
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^I'm out of warranty, so not sure that I can get any software update, etc.

Anyway, the HVAC prb occurs even when the engine hasn't been used for a long time, so doubtful it has anything to do w/ heat issues. Imo, t's just some electrical gremlin that the techs haven't been able to solve. The fact that the T-Fix worked for me 99% of the time tends to indicate that it's something to do w/ the circuitry and how the procedure takes place in sequence.
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      08-27-2014, 04:10 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
^I'm out of warranty, so not sure that I can get any software update, etc.

Anyway, the HVAC prb occurs even when the engine hasn't been used for a long time, so doubtful it has anything to do w/ heat issues. Imo, t's just some electrical gremlin that the techs haven't been able to solve. The fact that the T-Fix worked for me 99% of the time tends to indicate that it's something to do w/ the circuitry and how the procedure takes place in sequence.
In my case, it is always heat. I noticed that after driving for 20-30mnts on a hot day, when I stop and start the car later (after 15mnts), AC wouldn't start. Sometimes it went out when I was driving the car too. I too thought it was electronics issue because I noticed that passenger airbag indicator flickers even when there is nobody or nothing in the passenger seat. It didn't flicker at the dealership. So it was ruled out by the dealership. You might be correct about the procedure sequence. The software update might be just doing that. Since your car is out of warranty, you might want to find an independent repair shop that use Autologic (http://autologic.com/en-us/pages/hom...mw-diagnostics). I thought of purchasing their unit and had a demo. They are the ones who showed me that software is out of date and needs updates. They told me that the software is genuine and licensed from BMW. I am posting screen shots of Autologic. With every Z4 having this issue, instead of ignoring, BMW should do something about it.
Attached Images
  

Last edited by cuddapah; 08-27-2014 at 04:20 AM..
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      08-27-2014, 04:45 AM   #84
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I suspect that while we have similar symptoms, our prbs are not exactly the same. As you mentioned, yours is affected by heat but for me it's not an issue. Also, my HVAC never went offline during a drive, only sometimes during the starting up of the car.
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      08-27-2014, 09:23 AM   #85
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Also have the issue - 2014 35is - happened first time 2nd day I owned the car with probably 200 miles on the car and sitting cold.

Use the trick of start button first - has never failed me. Only happens on start up and still happens when I press start after the brake.

Don't even think about it anymore, not really that inconvenient and A/C works everytime.
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      08-28-2014, 12:49 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DslDwg View Post
Also have the issue - 2014 35is - happened first time 2nd day I owned the car with probably 200 miles on the car and sitting cold.

Use the trick of start button first - has never failed me. Only happens on start up and still happens when I press start after the brake.

Don't even think about it anymore, not really that inconvenient and A/C works everytime.
Please call it by its proper name, the *T-Fix*, I invented this procedure after all! Just playing.

Anyway, if doing the T-Fix is awkward, as I feel weird sometimes pressing my brake to actually crank the car, I'm now trying a new method w/ success thus far (let's call this T-Fix2): 1) press start button to have HVAC working/HVAC lights on; 2) press/hold brake; and 3) press start button. So, basically the same as the regular way to start the car but w/ the extra 1) step, just because it's more natural to actually crank the car w/ the button instead of the brake.
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      08-28-2014, 09:46 AM   #87
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2011 35i:

So far, I have not had A/C cut-off on me but sort of the reverse, although just once so far.

Driving in 80F-90F+ heat w/ the lid down, I turn the fans "off" completely to keep the residual hot air off the engine from coming out into the cabin.

Last week, on a ~40 minute drive, I turned the HVAC/fan off...only to see a few minutes later they were back "on". Three times I turned the HVAC off, only to have it crank itself back on. May or may not be related to issues herein but thought I'd put it down in case.
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      08-28-2014, 03:45 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STR3T
2011 35i:

So far, I have not had A/C cut-off on me but sort of the reverse, although just once so far.

Driving in 80F-90F+ heat w/ the lid down, I turn the fans "off" completely to keep the residual hot air off the engine from coming out into the cabin.

Last week, on a ~40 minute drive, I turned the HVAC/fan off...only to see a few minutes later they were back "on". Three times I turned the HVAC off, only to have it crank itself back on. May or may not be related to issues herein but thought I'd put it down in case.
Is it possible that when the computer senses excessive heat in the engine bay, it turns on the hvac to exhaust heat out of that area?
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