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      02-27-2015, 09:42 PM   #1
MannyS
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OEM Sway bar question

What is the difference between front sway bars on a new 35i and 35is since both are the same 26.5 mm diameter? Sway Part numbers are different.

Last edited by MannyS; 03-01-2015 at 08:16 PM..
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      02-28-2015, 04:16 PM   #2
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May help to post this in the e93 board not the e89 one....
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      03-01-2015, 08:13 PM   #3
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Sorry for the lack of model clarity. The question is about an E89. I placed an order for a 2016 Z4 35i yesterday and want to understand the difference between front sway bars on each model in order to determine if I will swap out the OEM bar for the the 35is sway bar. I do not like aftermarket bars with squeaky poly bushings.
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      03-02-2015, 12:26 AM   #4
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I can't answer your question, but yes, there seems to be two types of sway bars for the Z4. There is no "is" sway bar though. It is rather an "M sport"-sway bar which is used with everything from the 18i to the 35is. Maybe because they are lowered 10mm?

The part numbers are the same for 35i and 35is if the 35i is equipped with the Adaptive M suspension or the non-adaptive M sports suspension.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...96&hg=31&fg=10

Same story for Z4 18i.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...96&hg=31&fg=10


Apparently the part is used across SUVs, 1-series cars and so on:

Here is the Z4 M sport version:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref....=on&showeur=on

And here is the Z4 non-M sport version:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref....=on&showeur=on


Same story with the sway bar used on the 335is, just fyi:

The one used on E9x 335is non-M sport (used with everything from 316i sedan to 335is coupe)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref....=on&showeur=on

The one used on 335is M sport (also used with everything from 316i sedan to 335is coupe)
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref....=on&showeur=on
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      03-02-2015, 10:22 PM   #5
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Thanks for the data. Was originally thinking that there may possibly be a tensil strength difference between each front sway since they are the same diameter, but the lower setup on on the is and M models may have some type of clearance issue difference on the bar.
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      03-03-2015, 06:26 PM   #6
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Hi Manny,
I have h&r front and rear and there are no squeaks. No need to be concerned. I also notice an improvement in handling.

-Jake
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      03-03-2015, 09:25 PM   #7
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Thanks Jake. Does your front bar have a single or two link bolt holes on each side?
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      03-04-2015, 07:31 AM   #8
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Np, the front are non adjustable, but the rears are.

Front # 70987
Rear # 71987

Some retailers sell h&r but don't list for e89, they should have no problem ordering as long as they have the part #. I believe Turner helped me out with this.

Hope this helps.

-Jake
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      03-04-2015, 07:33 AM   #9
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yep, confirm, I just fitted in H+R sways (e89/30i)
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      03-05-2015, 04:55 PM   #10
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Thanks for all of the data
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      04-11-2015, 03:20 PM   #11
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How is the ride quality with the H&R sway bars?
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      04-16-2015, 05:15 PM   #12
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Improved cornering, no downsides to the H&R sways.
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      07-23-2018, 05:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jts1981 View Post
Hi Manny,
I have h&r front and rear and there are no squeaks. No need to be concerned. I also notice an improvement in handling.

-Jake
I also have 35is and thinking of going to H&R sway bars. What is your experience in terms of:
1. how difficult is DIY fitment
2. What setting did you use for the rear?
3. how much reduction in bodyroll did you observe?
4. Any loss in daily comfort?
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      07-24-2018, 12:51 PM   #14
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1. Kind of a pain compared to installing sway bars in other cars but absolutely still a DIY job.
2. Stiffer setting.
3. Hard to say exactly but definitely noticeable.
4. None.
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      07-25-2018, 08:01 AM   #15
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I saw some older posts that indicate the rear H&R had clearance problems when set on the firmest setting. Is this true? I'm getting ready to have a set installed on my 2012 28i with Adaptive M Suspension.
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      07-31-2018, 03:31 AM   #16
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1. Rear is the most difficult, you may want adjustable endlinks. For some reason mine also came with the wrong bushings rear, so I used a pair of modified powerflex bushings.
2. I started with middle, and now run the stiffest. It is still safe enough on my car, as the rear still has greater traction with stock alignment on the track. (Stiffer sway bar normally means less traction)
3. Alot (compared to non-m sport).
4. Absolutely (compared to non-m sport). It is much stiffer over bumbs etc.

My car uses non-m sport springs in combination with koni fsd and M arms/bushings front rear. It is still comfortable enough for longer road trips. The exprience may be different when comparing to m-sport sway bars in combination with m-sport springs.

I actually run the stiffest setting rear without adjustable endlinks. The bar touches the powerflex bushing on my differential (bushing problem). Otherwise no problems. I have posted pictures over at spo olstreet.
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      07-31-2018, 04:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asbjorn View Post
1. Rear is the most difficult, you may want adjustable endlinks. For some reason mine also came with the wrong bushings rear, so I used a pair of modified powerflex bushings.
2. I started with middle, and now run the stiffest. It is still safe enough on my car, as the rear still has greater traction with stock alignment on the track. (Stiffer sway bar normally means less traction)
3. Alot (compared to non-m sport).
4. Absolutely (compared to non-m sport). It is much stiffer over bumbs etc.

My car uses non-m sport springs in combination with koni fsd and M arms/bushings front rear. It is still comfortable enough for longer road trips. The exprience may be different when comparing to m-sport sway bars in combination with m-sport springs.

I actually run the stiffest setting rear without adjustable endlinks. The bar touches the powerflex bushing on my differential (bushing problem). Otherwise no problems. I have posted pictures over at spo olstreet.
Thank you so much!
> 2. I started with middle, and now run the stiffest. It is still safe enough on my car, as the rear still has greater traction with stock alignment on the track.

Do you recommend stiffest setting for daily driving and occasional canyon carving? I just hate bodyroll when I push hard on canyons. Do you think medium setting would be good enough without compromising much on daily comfort?

> 4. Absolutely (compared to non-m sport). It is much stiffer over bumbs etc.

The previous author says no difference. Which makes me wonder. I thought adding stiffer swaybar only reduces independence of the suspension. Does it also stiffens the normal ride when both wheels hit a bump/pothole by adding spring rate? Sorry I'm new to this

From :
http://speed.academy/how-swaybars-work/2/
"However, the upside to controlling body roll via stiffer anti-sway bars, compared to doing so with stiffer shocks and springs, is that unlike stiffer shocks and springs, antisway bars don’t make the suspension stiffer in the vertical plane, meaning stiffer anti-sway bars can help control body roll with less compromise to overall ride quality."
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Last edited by taranfx; 07-31-2018 at 04:42 PM..
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      07-31-2018, 08:16 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jts1981 View Post
Improved cornering, no downsides to the H&R sways.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tangent View Post
1. Kind of a pain compared to installing sway bars in other cars but absolutely still a DIY job.
2. Stiffer setting.
3. Hard to say exactly but definitely noticeable.
4. None.
I dropped my car with # 70987 & # 71987 for installation. I now read on forums that I need non-oem end links for rear. Is that true? What happens if I use OEM endlinks all through?
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      08-01-2018, 09:26 AM   #19
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Don't use OEM end links. Order the E46 adjustable rear links from Turner Motorsport. OEM are bad news. I had binding issues and my rear end was twitchy. I run the loosest setting (end of the bar, last hole). Also when fully unsprung, the sway bar can make contact points with suspension components. The rod end send up can be set up to solve all of that.

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Last edited by fmorelli; 08-01-2018 at 01:20 PM..
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      08-01-2018, 08:56 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmorelli View Post
Don't use OEM end links. Order the E46 adjustable rear links from Turner Motorsport. OEM are bad news. I had binding issues and my rear end was twitchy. I run the loosest setting (end of the bar, last hole). Also when fully unsprung, the sway bar can make contact points with suspension components. The rod end send up can be set up to solve all of that.

Filippo
Got my car back with rear set to loosest setting. Drove it on a canyon road. Bodyroll is significantly reduced. Initial turn-in is little rolly on a hard turn then it is lot better than before. Even normal city driving body-roll is reduced. Rear was little unsettling very occasionally but I'm not sure if I'll call it twitchy. (btw do you know why it was twitchy for you?)
I'm going to oder those and install them anyway since you know better.
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      08-02-2018, 08:41 PM   #21
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It was twitchy as the stock rear end links bind in some way. You will find the rear planted once you swap the other ones in.

Filippo
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      08-08-2018, 08:16 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alexm9999 View Post
I saw some older posts that indicate the rear H&R had clearance problems when set on the firmest setting. Is this true? I'm getting ready to have a set installed on my 2012 28i with Adaptive M Suspension.
I had the H&R set installed yesterday using the stock end-links. Set on middle setting. No apparent binding. I need to drive it more across various conditions but my initial impression is that handling has improved. My main intent was to reduce roll and oversteer - it seems to have worked.
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