35is Winter upgrade program

[B21]

Started my winter upgrade program..new uprated EKP, digital dash, new DSP/amp plus lots of minor other bits..joy of having a nice man cave on a damp Scottish winter’s day..

[B21]

Great advantage as many of you know with a winter project started early is the joy of stopping and sorting things out and moving on.

For those whose idea of a good audio system is a reasonable volume stereo amp and 2 or 4 speakers then ignore the rest of this post..

I bought the AudioFischer Match 10 DSP amp a while back, but other 1st world issues meant I ran out of time to fit it shortly after I bought it.

I did fix most of my tweeters, mid rnage and woofers which came from Audison, Eton and AudioFischer..

Unfortunately I then learnt the hard way that although I had the 677 aka Top-Fi aka Harmon Kardon 14 speaker system, the power to drive better quality but less efficent speakers.

First of all I thought I had burnt out some speakers, roof down, volume up the OE amp would overheat and slowly shut down, making some very unpleasant sounds, fortunately on cooling normal service, albeit poor quality resumed.

The issue with the E89 although its really an E90 3 series in disguise, BMW couldn't resist doing minor tweaks.

One of the unique tweaks is the addition of woofers to the audio set ups..most BMW have tweeters, mid range and woofers, the E89 has those plus woofers.

What this impacts (and I had this on Match 7 upgrade on my 20i with the 676 mid rnage 11 speakers system) is that the harness the manufacturer supplies (and in this case the suggested initial DSP s/w setup) are wrong...

Neither the harness nor the s/w recognise the existence of the woofers and /or try and push the subwoofer setting to the woofers.

Not a major issue for a competent installer but can catch the not so well informed out.

As this DSP/amp is generic (although AF do, thank god, supply almost a complete harness) then its an integration job to get around the vagaries of the extra 2 channels that E89s have over E90s.

Fortunately the Match 10 DSP is an extremely clever puppy..it has the ability to completely abstract all the input channels, be that 4 analogues, two digitals or an on board card handling bluetooth or USB inputs and then map them through a virtual management intereface to any of the 10 amplified channels and one line out (maybe for a meg subwoofer amp?)..

So in s/w in the DSP you can allocate which outputs physically exist and their amps to any / all /some of the inputs.

In addition for each physical channel you can tailor the low pass, high pass filters so you don't send loads of bass to your tweeters etc.

These filters can have different slopes and use different types of filter eg Butterworth, Bessel and so on.

at some point, because each speaker is a different distance to the lsiterner's ears..you can adjust the time taken to all coherently arrive at those ears..either by simpple physical measurement or by using the clever sampling tools to determine that for it self.

After re-reading everything 5 times over and checking TIS wiring diagrams, an afternoon on the PC saw the basic set up completed.

I'll now set it up in test format before doing a proper physical mount.

The one thing that's new to me is the MOST to digital interface box..the small one!

More modern cars, and the 677 amp on the E89 use a fibre optic daisy chain called MOST to move many types of higher volumes /faster data around the car.

Just cause its digital doesn't mean its directly compatable with the simple two chanel digital input to most (pun) amplifiers.

The MOST protocol, carries audio along with many other things..so what's needed is a bridge between MOST bus and the fibre optic digital input to the amp..this is a highly specialised bit of kit..AF makes this baby that can be configured for many verions of BMWs and others..Audi, LAnd Rover, Lambo, Merc, Porkster, Volvo and the VW Toureg..

So after I've stripped the back of the car out to get to the subwoofers to replace them with my uprated AF subs, we'll do an initial test..

[B21]

The new DSP amp needs a 50 amp supply.

The old amp has a 40 amp fused supply.

I decided just popping in a bigger fuse and praying wasn’t a good plan.

Normally you just add a thick cable with an in-line fuse and bolt it to the battery positive terminal.

Tried to be neater..I saw that adjacent to that battery is a red box..it’s the main distribution point for ultra heavy current distribution.

I saw one ‘slot’ was free but no ‘spade’ to plug into was free.

So I bought a used one to take apart and cannibalise..unfortunately internally it’s not just one bus bar but two bus bars separated.

Not to be defeated I’ll still use the idea but attach my new amp feed to the main bus bar and route it via the blank port..

[B21]

So after a minor cold before Christmas and a mother of all colds after New Year back to the grindstone.

Many things to do and still takimg more bits off than putting back together.

Today fitted the boost sensor tap to allow the IDMotion digital instrument cluster receive its boost pressue readings from its own private off board pressur sensor.

As usual with these 35d party things even more of a f€%£fest than even BMW offers.

The very expensive Forge Motorsport version of the boost sensor tap comes with a nicely machined sluminium fitting and supplied ‘with all the fittings’ for N20, N54 and N55 engines.

Takimg the old screw out..M5 standard I pondered on the new screws..some discrepancies it seemed..


Yup they had provided some fairly brutal self tapping screws..perfect for fitting to a precision machined aluminium casting…not..

Fortunately I had some suitable screws albeit with a Philips head rather than torx or Allen..

Anyway now fitted..hopefully there won’t be a boost leak from it.

The ID4motion wiring harness was designed for LHD car..there’s not enough cable to go from an instrument cluster on the RHS across to the duct on the left hand side into the electronics box in the engine bay.

So I’ve ordered a 2 metre boost pipe (20 bar) and sent that into the pax cabin via the electronics box..I’ll fix the new ID4 specific boost sensor in the paxczbin then I’ll have enough cable to reach the ID cluster.

Whilst I was there I laid the cable in for the front parking camera.

A suitable 13mm hole drilled in the electronics box and then some black sealant to render it water tight.

How to spend most a day..

[B21]

It’s the little things ..

I’ve always hated Jubilee clips aka Terry aka worm drive ..

They always make an installation botched.

These Murray constant tension clips are sooo much nicer..

I’ve got some T bolt versions but they are overkill even for me..

[B21]

The fitment of the ID4Motion digital cluster is turning into a nightmare.

The primary issue appears to be that the generic hardware ..used on many BMW models like 3/5/7 series is just too big to fit in the E89 instrument cluster space.

I couldn't make their installation instructions work..certainly without severely scratching /damaging the plastics in and around the instrument binacle.

So I've taken the whole dash out to fit it.

Even then its a f$%kfest...some of the screws that hold the dashboard together and to the rest of the car have to be jettisoned.

I'm not very happy at all.

Had I known how difficult and the compromises needed I certainly wouldn't have bought it.

But I've started so I'll continue..

The darkest hour is before the dawn..

[KennyP]

Saw your video on youtube where the lower part of the dash and rear of the interior were taken apart and thought that that was crazy... now this is next level! I wish you lots of strength and endurance to see it through...

I personally dont get these digital screens.. its not like adding Carplay to idrive... with that you get additional functionality... but these digital clusters dont really offer anything new apart from different looks... And theres a possibility that they are actually worse to read,for example, top down in the sun...
Also i think analog dial clusters are going to age just fine... at the moment even the cheapest new economy car has a digital screen as a cluster in it... so it isnt anything special... and in 5 years even the used car market would be full of cars with digital screens in them, and everybody wil have to live with them...

Its like watches... a digital display sportswatch(some casio) vs a mechanical one with self winding and a nice dial with smoothly moving hands indicating time... even though a digital watch is more precise than the mechanical one...mechanical watches are appreciated much more...

Im sure analog clusters will be alot more appreciated once they are almost fully gone from the general car market... well atleast the nicer ones...

So taking the way i feel or think about these clusters into account... its even more mindboggling to me what you are going through to get this thing to fit.

[MRCW]

Originally Posted by B21

The fitment of the ID4Motion digital cluster is turning into a nightmare.

The primary issue appears to be that the generic hardware ..used on many BMW models like 3/5/7 series is just too big to fit in the E89 instrument cluster space.

I couldn't make their installation instructions work..certainly without severely scratching /damaging the plastics in and around the instrument binacle.

So I've taken the whole dash out to fit it.

Even then its a f$%kfest...some of the screws that hold the dashboard together and to the rest of the car have to be jettisoned.

I'm not very happy at all.

Had I known how difficult and the compromises needed I certainly wouldn't have bought it.

But I've started so I'll continue..

The darkest hour is before the dawn..

Wow.

That's allot of work

Thank goodness I'm an analog guy.

[B21]

Originally Posted by KennyP

Saw your video on youtube where the lower part of the dash and rear of the interior were taken apart and thought that that was crazy... now this is next level! I wish you lots of strength and endurance to see it through...

I personally dont get these digital screens.. its not like adding Carplay to idrive... with that you get additional functionality... but these digital clusters dont really offer anything new apart from different looks... And theres a possibility that they are actually worse to read,for example, top down in the sun...
Also i think analog dial clusters are going to age just fine... at the moment even the cheapest new economy car has a digital screen as a cluster in it... so it isnt anything special... and in 5 years even the used car market would be full of cars with digital screens in them, and everybody wil have to live with them...

Its like watches... a digital display sportswatch(some casio) vs a mechanical one with self winding and a nice dial with smoothly moving hands indicating time... even though a digital watch is more precise than the mechanical one...mechanical watches are appreciated much more...

Im sure analog clusters will be alot more appreciated once they are almost fully gone from the general car market... well atleast the nicer ones...

So taking the way i feel or think about these clusters into account... its even more mindboggling to me what you are going through to get this thing to fit.

It was a split decision for the reasons you highlighted …frankly with what I now know I wish I did not purchase the unit..but….

I’ll persevere….we will see how the sunlight issue works out..I think given the guys and their design I think that aspect will work..

What’s cute / clever on this is that some of the renditions just look like pure analog dials …albeit with additional digital data..the designers have done a lot of work on the design, unlike the Chinese versions..

I’m pregnant now so I’ll try and complete it…

Stay tuned !

[B21]

Originally Posted by MRCW

Wow.

That's allot of work

Thank goodness I'm an analog guy.

Sound move !

[B21]

Day 2…the nightmare continues..

My buddy in Italy also with a yellow 35is is doing the exact same retrofit…he’s kept the dashboard in place..but he’s struggling as well.

Here’s my wooden mock up of the ID4Motion screen to help with initial set up.

Called it a day..by this time the dash is looking like a guyere cheese.. :headbang:

[B21]

Day 3..finally got a trial fit..my poor dremel has had a few tiring days…

Here’s a few static pics plus a YouTube link….

The key point that emerges is you have to take the top cowl off the instrument cluster, then fit the new ID4 cluster to the removed top cowl, then refit the top cowl to the dash..

The issue is the 4 of the 6 screws are hidden..two are easy, one difficult, three almost impossible..

My friend in Italy fitting his to another Atacama Yellow LHD 35is has lost his temper and butchered the fittings and glued the whole thing together.

[Steve Jarvis]

Looks good, that's a crazy amount of work.

[B21]

Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis

Looks good, that's a crazy amount of work.

Yes and there’s a couple of unacceptable compromises in their approach I don;t like , just wrestling with the next steps..

[Drummer$Dude]

Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis

Looks good, that's a crazy amount of work.

Yeah, thank you B21 for all of this info because this upgrade has been on my radar, but now not so much. Hopefully ID4Motion will make their unit easier to install for the e89 but I don't think that will happen. I think I have watched a YouTube video about installing this in an e89 but I could be mistaken.

[B21]

Originally Posted by Drummer$Dude

Yeah, thank you B21 for all of this info because this upgrade has been on my radar, but now not so much. Hopefully ID4Motion will make their unit easier to install for the e89 but I don't think that will happen. I think I have watched a YouTube video about installing this in an e89 but I could be mistaken.

I never found a meaningful E89 specific ID4Motion video..I now know why..

[B21]

I broke the two outboard lugs off the dashboard when I removed it..on one side my defence was that some Germanic hand maidens had attached a set of GPS leads to part of it..

I decided to buy a second hand one..on arrival it too had the lugs broken..and unlike mine no sign of the broken bits..plus two other major bits damaged ..not bad for £400…

So decided to try and repair mine.

I super glued the lugs back on and then attacked it with a ‘welder’…

Basically it’s a glorified soldering iron head..two off…that uses the current through the metal pin to heat it to red hot..it then melts into the plastic and you let it cool whilst in situ..then you remove the ‘gun’..the pins are push fit into the end so the gun simply detaches itself from the now embedded pin.

There are several versions of the pin.

There is a spatula device to warm bars of material anc melt them as well.

It’s not pretty and needs a degree of finishing but compared to a glued joint much much stronger.

It’s the same effect as re-bar in concrete..

We’ll see how it goes on re-installation..

I was so impressed with it I used some scrap plastic to restructure / add some support to the area in the dash where I had dremeled (with the benefit of hindsight) too much material away..

For areas that are not visible it seems a possible salvation for all those broken clips etc..

There are some videos showing super glue ..the liquid version with binders like cotton wool, bicarbonate of soda, even cigarette ash to support broken parts..but in this case there isn’t the space to use that technique…..

[KennyP]

So its very common to break these lugs when taking the dash out?
I presume you did follow service manuals while doing it?

What do you think about making a dash removal/install DIY guide of some sort?

I know that there arent many situations where owners might need to do that... but one that comes to mind is cars with extended leather options and leather covered dashes...

As these cars age the glue holding leather to the dash would start to fail...
Yes you could do spot repairs, but thats basically a bandage.. 6 months later glue fails in another spot and you have to fix it again and again...

So to fix it for good would be to take the dash out and reglue it all...

[B21]

Originally Posted by KennyP

So its very common to break these lugs when taking the dash out?
I presume you did follow service manuals while doing it?

What do you think about making a dash removal/install DIY guide of some sort?

I know that there arent many situations where owners might need to do that... but one that comes to mind is cars with extended leather options and leather covered dashes...

As these cars age the glue holding leather to the dash would start to fail...
Yes you could do spot repairs, but thats basically a bandage.. 6 months later glue fails in another spot and you have to fix it again and again...

So to fix it for good would be to take the dash out and reglue it all...

I’m not quite sure how I managed to break the lugs…I did follow the very limited instructions on TIS..to no avail..

I bought a used dash but that had even more damage in those areas plus damage related to botched removal around the instrument area.

I’m having it recovered and I’ll try and understand / document where the issues are..

The primary reason why you may be forced to remove the dash is if some of the HVAC components fail…

[KennyP]

true... hvac would be a second reason... though ventilation fan motor AFAIK should be easy to do... just have to remove glovebox or something like that...
but yes heating radiator.. airflow direction flaps controls... if these fail then its a dash out job to fix...

[B21]

Originally Posted by KennyP

true... hvac would be a second reason... though ventilation fan motor AFAIK should be easy to do... just have to remove glovebox or something like that...
but yes heating radiator.. airflow direction flaps controls... if these fail then its a dash out job to fix...

Yes FWIW i'd avoid taking the dash out if you can!

[Drummer$Dude]

Originally Posted by KennyP

What do you think about making a dash removal/install DIY guide of some sort?

I know that there arent many situations where owners might need to do that... but one that comes to mind is cars with extended leather options and leather covered dashes...

As these cars age the glue holding leather to the dash would start to fail...
Yes you could do spot repairs, but thats basically a bandage.. 6 months later glue fails in another spot and you have to fix it again and again...

So to fix it for good would be to take the dash out and reglue it all...

I wholeheartedly agree with KennyP. I have noticed that the leather on the dash/passenger side gets a large diameter bubble when the weather is hot. It's not super noticeable but it bothers me.