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      02-01-2024, 07:20 PM   #1
MachRc
E92/E46/E30 Owner
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Drives: E46 M3 6psi
Join Date: Sep 2010
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Hardtop Issue(MicroSwitch) Fixed as a Dummy

Hi Gang just wanted to thank you guys and document my own top fix using all the resources of the internet and this forum. Ive probably went through all of RobbiZ4's posts(thank you for championing e89 tops) guides and may more.

In all the 7-8 hours of fiddling with the mechanics and teachings of the internet.
Here I feel were some of the things that really helped me as I knew I would have to attend to the convertible top as I had sporadic issues over the last 2 years. My top just started not working and bonging just before it started raining, so I figured I tackle it while I can. Plus I couldn't raise my windows and that's not cool.

Here are some things what I feel really helped me tackle my top issue.


This video showed me alot of technical information and fix. I did not need to get to the CTM controller to bypass one of the switches.(I dont think anyone should) As I used the hydraulic pressure valve to lift the rear roof shell(later on that). This video was a really goodwatch.


Deep OBD app (with usb/otg odb2 tool)
Free Android app that read my top code. I have Carly to code my top module to work up to 30mph, but it did not read my top module code properly and gave me some windshield wiper code.



Hydraulic release valve

When having access to trunk, loosening this like 3/4th turn was really the only way to get the top in the semi - "service position". You may..you will.. have to bring it back to this position many times. I just made sure to tighten back before top operation.







Getting Trunk access.

To get to the hydraulic release valve, you need to get into trunk.


I tied a rope to the bungie cord to make it easier just in case I messed up. And I did many times. This will be very critical.

I had by accidently mistaken my hall sensor with the right rear microswitch(The hall sensor connector is more inward and next to the hydraulic line, while the right microswitch sensor wires are bend curl upwards towards the outer side and is more hidden on the right side of the shell) So at one point I could not open the trunk. I tapped the pin in the fuse box to pop the trunk open.https://e89.zpost.com/forums/showpos...4&postcount=30

Once I got the connections rights I tested, gave some slack to the new wires, and wrapped the wires and zip tied the wires and hydraulic lines to where they were, making sure they dont get pinched, and back into the correct snaps in grooves. I did my zip ties in blue to show my amateur style.


I hope this helps someone get a slight easier understanding for fixing their own top when it comes to the wires in our tops that usually go out. After you do this, you will feel more comfortable in working on your own top for sure.
Wear gloves for those old wires as they are gross. I personally snapped off the wires closer to the sensor and just re-did the wires once I could not find the breakage in the upper bend.

If I can do it in 8 hours , you should be able to do this in like 4.
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      02-02-2024, 02:44 AM   #2
B21
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Drives: E89 Atacama Yellow 35is
Join Date: May 2022
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Good write up and video..��
__________________
Much modified 2011 Atacama Yellow 35is…previously a much modified 2012 Atacama Yellow 20i MSport
Change history here… https://www.dropbox.com/s/8h1vabklgz...0List.pdf?dl=0
Build thread here… https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131886
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