DINAN Stg 2 flash uploaded tomorrow...

[2Intense]

I was curious if anyone experienced issues with DCT slippage after a tune and if so, what can be done to mitigate it?

Thanks.

[davis449]

No slippage here. Almost a year and~ 7K miles with Stage II and not even a hint of a problem.

[Xpuzzle]

Been running Cobb Stage 2 then switched to BQ, no slippage whatsoever.

[2Intense]

Okay, had the DINAN Stg. 2 flash yesterday. About a mile from home after leaving the shop that performed the upload, I got a check engine light and the car began to run very rough. Essentially had to drop to 20MPH and throw the hazards on for the last mile to get it into the garage. I tunrned it off and restarted and the Check engine light was gone and the car was running fine.

So, turned it off again and ran the diagnostics to see what Code it threw. It was a "0029CF - Misfire, cylinder3: injection is switched off" (attached photos).

I had heard it was a good idea to change plugs and even coils before flashing the DINAN (I think I saw a YouTube video on it?). So, had already ordered new OEM plugs and Coils on Amazon and luckily they were sitting on my doorstep when I got home last night. (I posted a picture of the removed plugs below, in order by cylinder, left to right, beginning with #1) I just bought the car a couple of weeks ago so I don't know how long these plugs have been in there but appears like #5 & #6 cylinders are running a bit rich? (two plugs furthest to the right)

Once new plugs and coils were installed, I took the car for a drive and pushed it a bit in both Sport modes as well as Normal and had no problems. I drove it to work today which is about a 40mi drive and again pushed it pretty hard in bursts, etc. and so far no problem. Hopefully that was all it was.

That aside, there is a very noticeable impreovement in performance after the upload and I am happy with the results provided the misfires are behine me?

Anyone else have any issues or experiences similiar to this?

[davis449]

Not with Dinan, but with other tunes for other cars (i.e. APR, GIAC, etc.). There are people who've also had these types of experiences with MHD, Cobb, etc. As long as it runs good from here on out, you're probably just fine. If it behaves like that again, take it back to the Dinan dealer.

[jts1981]

Did they reset adaptations? That may be the culprit

[2Intense]

Originally Posted by jts1981

Did they reset adaptations? That may be the culprit

Not sure, what exactly is "resetting adaptations"?

[davis449]

Originally Posted by 2Intense

Not sure, what exactly is "resetting adaptations"?

It's when they reset the software in the car that adapts to your driving. A reset clears all of that stored info. out and starts from scratch learning how you drive in order to optimize the car's performance behavior to fit your driving style.

[2Intense]

I'll have to ask the installer. But it did it again yesterday in exact same conditions and location. Here is when it happens:

sitting stopped at a red light I put it in Sport+ mode but leave DCT in Auto (D1) and when the light goes green I punch it. After a bit of turbo lag it launches and by 2nd or 3rd shift (in auto) at around 6000 RPM it craps out, engine light comes on and it shuts the cylinder down. (haven't pulled the cosde yet to see which one this time). I pull over, turn ignition off and restart, everything is fine again. I drove the car pretty hard 80+ miles a day the last few days and no problem but admitedly never launched from the standing stop until yesterday which is what caused it the first time. hmmm...

[distinctperson]

I had this issue on my first 35i. About the same mileage as yours. Issue resolved after replacing coils and plugs.

[2Intense]

Yeah, if you read above, that’s exactly what I did. As soon as I have the issue I install brand new plugs and brand new coils. The issue still remains. Although, I haven’t attempted in manual mode yet, only automatic. I did check the error message and it was identical To the one above, same cylinder same RPM etc.

[svetlik123]

I had this same issue before/after flashing to Dinan Stage 2. Mine was misfire on cyl 2. And like you, replaced plugs/coil packs and the issue still remained.

I got the intake walnut blasted and that helped ... for a few months - it fixed the issue with the cylinder misfire, but then exposed another weakness and I still got the "limp mode", but it was throwing a 2A87 Exhaust VANOS solenoid error (and not the cyl misfire).

I purchased a new VANOS solenoid but have yet to replace (limp mode is very intermittent and hasn't been too big a PITA yet)... I'm hoping that will cure the problem (should be a simple straight forward job <30 min).

I beat my head against the wall for months trying to sort this out .... I suspect your intake valves need to cleaned (walnut blasted) and that may fix your problem .... but I would also look for additional errors with the VANOS after and replace the solenoid as well.

I think the walnut blasting was $400 (to $500) at the dealership. Hope this helps .... Good Luck!

[distinctperson]

It looks like your Z4 has already become a money drain not long into your ownership. I've read some of your posts and the issues are aplenty. I made a similar mistake (perhaps in your case also) when I purchased my first Z4 (E85) for cheap and proceeded to spend in excess of $10k on it (yes, you read that right) before punting it.

Good luck.

[2Intense]

Originally Posted by distinctperson

It looks like your Z4 has already become a money drain not long into your ownership. I've read some of your posts and the issues are aplenty. I made a similar mistake (perhaps in your case also) when I purchased my first Z4 (E85) for cheap and proceeded to spend in excess of $10k on it (yes, you read that right) before punting it.

Good luck.

Yeah, this is my 3rd one. The others were E85 and low miles and I never had any issuies that were not self induced. I anticipated spending $3-4K on this one and so far I have spent about $2400 on transmission pan and DTC leak, oil servicing and another $700 on the Dinan stage 2, $150 on plugs and coils. Then I spent about 2 hours of my own labor and $120 parts replacing the climate control knob cluster and Push to start/stop button in the dash.

The car is running tight right now and other than the fact it wants to drop this misfire if I punch it to the floor in Auto. For now I just paddle shift in those situations.

At the end of the day I bought the car cheap (@$14K) with the idea I would need to spend some $ and it was to be a daily driver or beater for my commute.

So far it's working just great for that.

[mopar]

Hi how many miles on car at this time? Thanks Larry

[2Intense]

Originally Posted by mopar

Hi how many miles on car at this time? Thanks Larry

Just hit 80K

[distinctperson]

You can disable the kickdown switch using MHD Flasher if you still want to floor it in normal D without worrying about about it automatically downshifting to redline. In normal D it will still downshift for you if you floor it, but not to redline, like the kickdown switch.

[2Intense]

Originally Posted by distinctperson

You can disable the kickdown switch using MHD Flasher if you still want to floor it in normal D without worrying about about it automatically downshifting to redline. In normal D it will still downshift for you if you floor it, but not to redline, like the kickdown switch.

gotcha, thanks.