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      06-18-2017, 05:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
Another question is that the LED sometimes still work...so it can't be completely dead, do you guys suspect it's probably a loose connection somewhere instead of a fuse or other issue?
This is what happened to me. It was a socket whose welds to the circuit board were breaking, after some time due to vibration the welds broke altogether.
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      06-26-2017, 03:30 AM   #24
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Arrggh, I'm at wit's end!!! Lousy %%#%@#% LEDs! Enemy of DIYers!

Last ditch attempt for HELP. Otherwise, I'm gonna havta buy a new unit as this is such a MAJOR PITA!


So I took apart the rear light as much as possible, but cannot access the LED strips...I guess they can only be accessed from the front where the red plastic is glued to the rest of the assembly? I was hoping it would be some screwed/latched mechanism, but no such luck. Just posting these photos just in case I missed something. My question is: can I only get at the LED by breaking the glue between the red plastic and the black 'plastic tub'? If so, it seems like a pain, unless there's a simple way.

Thanks, guys.


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      06-26-2017, 08:41 AM   #25
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This is the time where you connect the light wires to a 12 volt source to test the light independent of the car wiring.

A car battery works of course, but I like to use AC/DC power sources such as old computer or printer power packs, something like that which has a 12 volt output.

Or, take out the light from the other side of the car and plug this light into the socket and see what you get.
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      06-26-2017, 11:10 AM   #26
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This is the time where you connect the light wires to a 12 volt source to test the light independent of the car wiring.

A car battery works of course, but I like to use AC/DC power sources such as old computer or printer power packs, something like that which has a 12 volt output.

Or, take out the light from the other side of the car and plug this light into the socket and see what you get.
I don't think I have a proper power source but good idea if I give up I'll have the dealership test it before I buy a new one.

So I guess I'm screwed re the LED since I need to break the glue seal to get at it?
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      06-26-2017, 11:16 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
I don't think I have a proper power source but good idea if I give up I'll have the dealership test it before I buy a new one.

So I guess I'm screwed re the LED since I need to break the glue seal to get at it?
It won't plug into the light on the other side?

Unless the dealer has another Z4 they are willing to take the light out of I doubt they will test the light. The svc dept is not known for component level troubleshooting.

They would usually say you need a new light. Then when that is not it then they will say you need a new harness or.... a new car!
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      06-26-2017, 11:33 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by NoQuarter View Post
It won't plug into the light on the other side?

Unless the dealer has another Z4 they are willing to take the light out of I doubt they will test the light. The svc dept is not known for component level troubleshooting.

They would usually say you need a new light. Then when that is not it then they will say you need a new harness or.... a new car!
I'm too lazy to take apart the other side of the trunk arrgh lol.

If I go I'll call ahead or else I guess I havta check it on my own...such a pita, they definitely don't want you to mess w/ the LED diy.
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      06-26-2017, 03:15 PM   #29
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Quote:
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So I guess I'm screwed re the LED since I need to break the glue seal to get at it?
Correct. You need to soften up the glue with a heat gun or "bake" the light assembly in the over. Search the net and you will find forum discussions and youtube videos showing the procedure.
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      06-26-2017, 03:18 PM   #30
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Correct. You need to soften up the glue with a heat gun or "bake" the light assembly in the over. Search the net and you will find forum discussions and youtube videos showing the procedure.
Tx for the confirm. Sucks, too much work for me and no tools. I give up.
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      06-26-2017, 03:26 PM   #31
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The yellow is the part where the harness connects to the circuit board. The LED blinkers are powered by a 3 pin socket.

The pink seems to be (I think) the wire leaving the circuit board to power on the red position LED. The blue is most likely the red position LED itself.
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      06-26-2017, 03:28 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BBriner View Post
The yellow is the part where the harness connects to the circuit board. The LED blinkers are powered by a 3 pin socket.

The pink seems to be (I think) the wire leaving the circuit board to power on the red position LED. The blue is most likely the red position LED itself.
Tx but can I (or an electrician) do anything w/ that, assuming that I won't remove the red plastic to physically get at the LED?
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      06-26-2017, 03:36 PM   #33
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Quote:
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Tx but can I (or an electrician) do anything w/ that, assuming that I won't remove the red plastic to physically get at the LED?
Definitely no. In order to identify where is your loose contact is (just an assumption atm), you will have to access the circuit board thus you will have to remove the red lens.
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      06-26-2017, 03:53 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Definitely no. In order to identify where is your loose contact is (just an assumption atm), you will have to access the circuit board thus you will have to remove the red lens.
Argh, that's too much for me. Gotta somehow remove all the extraneous stuff and bake it in the oven...I'd probably burn my place down lol.
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      06-28-2017, 01:25 AM   #35
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Seems like every time I plug the light back in it works for a bit. Funny thing, it's working again, but the 'burnt bulb' warning light came on lol (in contrast to the times when the LED light didn't work but no warning light came on). Those infamous BMW electric gremlins. Maybe it has something to do w/ the connector itself.
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      06-29-2017, 02:33 PM   #36
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Hmm, I'm wondering if I'm the first guy w/ a problematic LED here? I'm thinking it's a bad/loose connector *fingers crossed* Theoretically, LEDs should last 'forever', right?
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      10-09-2017, 04:53 PM   #37
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ID'd prb and possible solution *fingers crossed*

Ok, after messing around w/ the rear LED light for several months, I'm pretty sure the prb is a LOOSE WIRE issue somewhere. I've been doing stuff like pulling on various wires because it's not as simple as 1 loose wire, but somehow a 'combination' of pulling wires one way and some others another, and trying to hold them in place w/ tape. It's very frustrating because a big jolt would sometimes loosen the tape/wires and disconnect the light...so I've been tinkering w/ what taping technique to hold what wires in what way w/ tape, it's all trail-by-error. Anyway, I've finally got to the pt of taping up all the loose wiring, so short of removing the light and soldering the contacts, hopefully this will finally do it.

At least I know that I won't be throwing away an otherwise perfectly good LED light and paying $$$$$ for a new one. It's ridiculous and such waste, shame on BMW for suggesting that the only solution was to pay a crazy price for what ended up as lousy wire connect issues.

Hope this helps for ppl w/ encountering this prb.
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