New wheels/pictures of my Z4

[Steve Jarvis]

There are a couple of pictures and some discussions on another thread that I posted when I was shopping for a Z4 but nothing specifically about the new wheels/tires. It's too cold for a hand wash, so be nice given the car was just spayed off at the carwash.

My car is a 2011 6sp 35i that just turned 60,000 miles. Below are my current modifications.

Carbon fiber mirror caps
Carbon fiber rear spoiler
JB4 on map 2
Burger dual cone intake
H&R springs
Apex VS-5RS one piece forged wheels
19x9.5" +35mm offset (with a 3mm spacer) front
19x10.5" +45mm offset Rear
Michelin PS4s tires
265/30R19 front
285/30R19 rear
Camber Settings (Alignment pins removed from the stock top hats)
-1.3 degrees front and -2.5 degrees rear

I had to do some mods on the rear inner fender liners, but the steel fenders are stock and nothing had to be done in the front. There is currently no rubbing fully loaded with 2 grown men in the car or with the steering wheel turned full lock left and right.

[B21]

Great stuff..I found my 275/30 19 on 10j 40mm on BMW 437Ms were just touching the inners on full droop…

Very pretty ..I like the look..

I’m running 1.7 camber front and rear..

I suspect you need more rear camber to squeeze those rears in..

[Steve Jarvis]

I'm just maxing out the stock rear camber recommend range but you are correct, they wouldn't clear with less camber. I would add more in the front, but that's max until I get some camber plates. I'll get some coil-overs and camber plates as soon as I take the time to calculate my wheel rates and front/rear wheel rate percentage. You never know what your getting. Ground Control on my old E46 M3 had great balance. Bilstein PSS10's on my 911 turbo needed the rear springs replaced. It's easier to run the math and make sure they're in the ballpark before ordering/installing. Right now I'll definitely drop the front tire pressure to reduce understeer.

[Steve Jarvis]

I'm considering removing the S-Drive 35i badging from the side and replacing the chrome Z4 trunk lid emblem with black Z4 badging.

[Marcoose]

Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis

Camber Settings (Alignment pins removed from the stock top hats)
-1.3 degrees front and -2.5 degrees rear

Did you have to install variable or fixed-angle camber plates in the front?

And did you have adaptive suspension ?

Thanks.

[Steve Jarvis]

Removing these pins and lowering the car will allow you to get more negative camber.

[B21]

Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis

I'm considering removing the S-Drive 35i badging from the side and replacing the chrome Z4 trunk lid emblem with black Z4 badging.

Good move..I used the G29 Z4 logo in gloss black on mine..

[B21]

Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis

I'm just maxing out the stock rear camber recommend range but you are correct, they wouldn't clear with less camber. I would add more in the front, but that's max until I get some camber plates. I'll get some coil-overs and camber plates as soon as I take the time to calculate my wheel rates and front/rear wheel rate percentage. You never know what your getting. Ground Control on my old E46 M3 had great balance. Bilstein PSS10's on my 911 turbo needed the rear springs replaced. It's easier to run the math and make sure they're in the ballpark before ordering/installing. Right now I'll definitely drop the front tire pressure to reduce understeer.

I went with some European variable castor/camber plates , plus adjustable RTAB holders, with much better quality RTABs..I went with Ohlins R+T suspension but sadly no longer manufactured…

[Z4Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis

I'm considering removing the S-Drive 35i badging from the side and replacing the chrome Z4 trunk lid emblem with black Z4 badging.

Honestly I wouldn't do that, it would stand out too much if you blacken out the Z4 emblem at the back. Its perfect now, I would've probably painted the spoiler white though.

[Steve Jarvis]

That's why there's chocolate and vanilla. I left the spoiler and mirror caps exposed carbon to contrast all the white. I normally believe there should be a lot of chrome or no chrome and a lot of chrome should basically be 50's and 60'cars.

[tranquility]

Tastefully done!

When I bought my car back in the day, I didn't pay any attn to the style of the wheels and got the crazily-busy 293 w its TWENTY spokes, ugh. I guess our choices sucked because the other popular alternative suffered from cracks. If I can make my car a summer-only vehicle, I'd probably use the 290 style wheels I got from my winter package.

[Z4Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis

That's why there's chocolate and vanilla. I left the spoiler and mirror caps exposed carbon to contrast all the white. I normally believe there should be a lot of chrome or no chrome and a lot of chrome should basically be 50's and 60'cars.

Your car looks fantastic though


What kind of H&R springs did you have added? Any issues with rubbing?
Thinking of adding sport springs to mine, but worrying about the stiffness over broken country roads and large speed bumps.


I also wonder how its got the M bumpers with it being a 35i hmm

[B21]

MSport bumpers were an option on 35i …ie the 35i MSport..

For the geeks the 35i MSport rear diffuser is different to the 35is rear diffuser..even if they have the same MSport rear bumper..

[Steve Jarvis]

I knew there would be a lot of questions about fitment, so I'm hoping these pictures will help. This is far from a "plug and play" fitment, so understand you will need to be willing to make changes, work with offsets, spacers and alignment. With a fitment this tight, don't assume that all Z4s are the same. I don't have any rubbing, but I have made room where needed.

This picture shows where the inner wheel lip aligned with the inner fender. The lower line is at ride height and the upper line is under compression (by this point, your shock is getting into the bump stop). You can assume the position with a reasonable droop. Full droop wasn't that important to me as I don't typically jump the car. With the car jacked up I don't any significant issues.

Please note the stud/nut at the 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock positions. I shorted the stud and the nut by about 1/3rd to give a little more clearance.

[Steve Jarvis]

Next I had to slot the holes in the fender liner, so I could "cheat" the liner up on the inside and out toward the fender lip on the outside.

This pictures show how much you need to slot the holes.

[Steve Jarvis]

After this, you need to cut the outer most lip off the plastic part of the fender liner. This is the lip that rests on top of the metal fender lip currently.

[Steve Jarvis]

Finally you will need to heat the plastic portion of the outer fender liner, so the remaining plastic lip will now ride on top of the metal fender lip instead of beside it.

[Steve Jarvis]

I hope this is helpful. There is no need to hammer/cut/roll any metal. Except for the slightly shorter studs, the car can be returned to stock condition with new rear fender liners and some nylon nuts.

[B21]

Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis

I hope this is helpful. There is no need to hammer/cut/roll any metal. Except for the slightly shorter studs, the car can be returned to stock condition with new rear fender liners and some nylon nuts.

Good write up..as you say there are some mods that are a bridge too far for some..but a detailed exposition is better than saying I made it fit or not!!

[Steve Jarvis]

Originally Posted by Z4Enthusiast

Your car looks fantastic though


What kind of H&R springs did you have added? Any issues with rubbing?
Thinking of adding sport springs to mine, but worrying about the stiffness over broken country roads and large speed bumps.


I also wonder how its got the M bumpers with it being a 35i hmm

I have the H&R Sport springs with M Sport suspension. They have the same issues you have with any progressive rate spring (though they don't "pogo" as much as others I have tried). The ride quality is pretty good over most surfaces, though larger/sharper bumps can be very harsh. The car rides pretty well with the shocks on stock, but are underdamped when being aggressive. The Sport setting works well with the springs when being aggressive, but make the car ride firmer during normal driving. I'm sure I'll ultimately change to coil-overs, but wanted to spread the spend out after buying the car and doing everything I've done in just a few months.

[Z4Enthusiast]

Thanks for the insight, I have a 35i so no adaptive suspension, Honestly I just want to have the car sit lower while not sacrificing comfort for a harsher ride.

My only fear is rubbing against the fender with 15mm spacers in the rear when I get those.

[Marcoose]

Originally Posted by Steve Jarvis

I have the H&R Sport springs with M Sport suspension. They have the same issues you have with any progressive rate spring (though they don't "pogo" as much as others I have tried). The ride quality is pretty good over most surfaces, though larger/sharper bumps can be very harsh. The car rides pretty well with the shocks on stock, but are underdamped when being aggressive. The Sport setting works well with the springs when being aggressive, but make the car ride firmer during normal driving. I'm sure I'll ultimately change to coil-overs, but wanted to spread the spend out after buying the car and doing everything I've done in just a few months.

My (used) 35is came stock. My trusted indy put H&R Sport springs with the OE adaptive suspension shocks. It didn't match. For starters it was far too low, scraping everywhere, and worse, it bottomed very frequently. So we've went for the full KWV3 set. Massive improvement from the H&R and the OE suspension. I'm glad the H&R Sport springs and the OE adaptive suspension combo are working well with your ride. Like you said, each E89 is different.

However, and if you're willing to help, I have an annoying clicking noise.