Anyone replace their battery?

[Irishfan]

So, it looks like I'll need to replace the battery in the Z4. I *normally* wouldn't ask any type of question about this sort of thing, but a quick call to the dealer found that they want around $600 to do the replacement, with a large portion of the cost going to "battery conditioning." This seems a bit ridiculous - I thought the battery only needed shampoo.

Anyway, has anyone replaced their Z4's battery? If so, is there anything I need to know prior to dropping in an appropriate replacement from Autozone? Thanks!

[Constant.S]

I dont really know about the specific battery the Z uses but 600usd seems ALOT.

[ChuckB]

I think the "conditioning" of the new battery is referred to as "Battery Registration" with our cars...

Battery Registration informs the vehicle that the battery has been replaced. It completes the following operations:

* Battery capacity is set to 80%
* Current Odometer reading are stored. The odometer readings at which the last seven battery replacements took place can be read off from the Diagnosis Requests of Control Unit Functions
* Stored battery statistics (current, voltage , battery charge level) are deleted
* Stored temperature statistics are deleted

How AGM Batteries Work
AGM batteries differ from conventional lead-calcium batteries in their environmental compatibility and their retention of gases during charging. When a vehicle battery is charged, the electrolysis process emits the gases oxygen and hydrogen . In a conventional lead-calcium battery, these two gases are released into the atmosphere. In an AGM battery, the two gases are converted back into water: The oxygen created at the positive electrode during charging moves through the permeable glass-fiber fleece to the negative electrode, where it reacts with the hydrogen ions that are brought in with the electrolyte, to create water (oxygen cycle). In this manner, the gases, and thus the electrolyte, is not lost.

Only when the gas production is excessive, that is when too much pressure is generated (20 to 200 mbar), does the pressure-relief valve open, thereby allowing gas to escape while also preventing entry of atmospheric oxygen. Because the pressure in the battery is regulated by a valve, the AGM battery is also known as the VRLA battery (valve regulated lead acid).

Service Instructions for AGM Batteries
When handling AGM batteries, certain special factors must be taken into consideration with regard to battery renewal and installation location:

Do not charge AGM batteries with more than 14.8 volts or use use rapid charging programs
When charging batteries the maximum charge voltage of 14.8 volts must not be exceeded. Even briefly charging an AGM battery with a charge voltage of more than 14.8 volts (voltages usually used in rapid charge programs) will damage the battery

Do not install AGM batteries in the engine compartment
Because of large temperature variations, AGM batteries must not be installed in the engine compartment. This would result in a significant reduction in the service life of the battery

Do not open AGM batteries
By no account should AGM batteries ever be opened, as oxygen from the atmosphere would cause the battery to lose its chemical balance and cause it to fail.

Battery Replacement
An AGM battery, when installed as original equipment, must always be replaced with an AGM battery. In special cases, where a customer's driving profile (e.g. short distance driving), results in a discharged battery, the AGM battery is a recommended replacement.

As of June 2010 most European manufacturers use black case batteries to denote an AGM battery and white clear plastic battery cases denote Lead-Acid. U.S. made replacement batteries do not follow this protocol and case color is not an indicator of battery type.

So this does seem a bit excessive, but not out of the ordinary, and can only be done by BMW or by a garage with an Autologic tool

[E89Tardis]

There is no mention of an AGM battery or any special charging considerations in my 2009 manual. Is this exclusive to Europe or post 2009 vehicles or do they just not mention it and let you find out the hard way ?

[Memphis1]

Originally Posted by Irishfan

So, it looks like I'll need to replace the battery in the Z4. I *normally* wouldn't ask any type of question about this sort of thing, but a quick call to the dealer found that they want around $600 to do the replacement, with a large portion of the cost going to "battery conditioning." This seems a bit ridiculous - I thought the battery only needed shampoo.

Anyway, has anyone replaced their Z4's battery? If so, is there anything I need to know prior to dropping in an appropriate replacement from Autozone? Thanks!

should be done under warranty and free of charge if under the 4 year/50k mile limit... the batteries are meant to last 5 years so under normal circumstances you should not need a new one before the 4 year mark. Given that our cars came out in 2009, i doubt you have that much mileage. it's not part of the "service" it's part of the warranty that nothing should fail under the 4year/50k mile mark

[Irishfan]

Originally Posted by Memphis1

should be done under warranty and free of charge if under the 4 year/50k mile limit... the batteries are meant to last 5 years so under normal circumstances you should not need a new one before the 4 year mark. Given that our cars came out in 2009, i doubt you have that much mileage. it's not part of the "service" it's part of the warranty that nothing should fail under the 4year/50k mile mark

Agreed, but I doubt that the dealer will honor the warranty. This is because last time it was in for service, they had mentioned the vampire draw of the Smart Top module, and that it should be removed. I guess it couldn't hurt to ask.

[cdeslandes]

It should be done under warranty. Was done under warranty *twice* for my wife's Lexus actually.

[ChuckB]

Originally Posted by E89Tardis

There is no mention of an AGM battery or any special charging considerations in my 2009 manual. Is this exclusive to Europe or post 2009 vehicles or do they just not mention it and let you find out the hard way ?

Not sure about the "regionality" of the batteries [but I don't see them putting in a country specific battery], but my 2007 120d has the exact same glass mat battery, also rated for 70aH. Might be tied to the regenerative breaking...

[rmorin49]

Originally Posted by Irishfan

Agreed, but I doubt that the dealer will honor the warranty. This is because last time it was in for service, they had mentioned the vampire draw of the Smart Top module, and that it should be removed. I guess it couldn't hurt to ask.

I think you are screwed in terms of getting a new battery from the dealer. That said, do not buy a replacement from the dealer. Go to Advance Auto, Auto Zone or even Sears. I am 99% sure they can provide a replacement that is as good or even better than the OEM battery. I purchased a battery for a 740 for under $100 installed from Auto Zone. The dealer wanted almost $400 for a battery with less CCA and a shorter warranty. Good luck.

[teagueAMX]

Originally Posted by Irishfan

Agreed, but I doubt that the dealer will honor the warranty. This is because last time it was in for service, they had mentioned the vampire draw of the Smart Top module, and that it should be removed. I guess it couldn't hurt to ask.

Sorry to say but the dealer identified an excuse in advance for not replacing your battery in the event you needed a new one.

All new cars today have a "vampire draw", although this is the first time I've heard it referred to that way. Let's face it, even though our computers, iPods, cell phones, etc., have an "off" button, they rarely turn off except when you remove the battery or pull the power cord. That's because the button that turns them "off" is connected to an electrically charged integrated circuit which tells the unit turn "on". Usually, the only thing that turns "on" is the display and that does save voltage. But those are clear cut cases of "vampire draw" right there! With or with out the Smart Top module, the electronics in your Z4 never really turn off for the same reason.

A friend had a Vette that was notorious for a having a flat battery after a couple of weeks. His charging system worked perfectly, and he went through several batteries before he finally traded the car. Sometimes electronic system can have a voltage "leak" that will drain the battery.

I agree with other posts here the OEM battery is defective, however, before I gave up on that battery I'd check out a couple of things first.

• Does your car set for long periods?
• Do you have a trickle charger?
• You might have a friend with a good battery charger place a full charge on it before you replace it. It may work OK after that.
• Also, you might consider placing a multimeter in line with the positive lead of your battery to see how much "vampire draw" is actually being pulled when the car off.

I really can't imagine the Smart Top module is pulling that much and certainly not more than the Z's other electronics!

[Land_Shark]

I think there are 2 issues here.
1. Is the battery under warrantee.
2. How much a replacement cost, if indeed $600 or does it need to be replaced (as teagueAMX is suggesting to cross check)

IMO, #1, your Warrantee is void, cause you used a devise not approved by BMW. It might not be a yes/no answer, but I am sure they will build a good case on that, and you will not get it changed for free that easily.

#2, the $600 is way too much. We all know for a fact that the dealer is "THE" Vampire draw of our pockets. I suggest checking your battery as TeagueAMX has suggested, and if still at fault go to Auto Zone and the alike to have it changed.
Good luck!

[BlueZ4AZ]

My battery was replaced under warranty a couple weeks ago. One day the clock kept losing time, and a couple other small oddities occured too. I took it to the dealership to troubleshoot it. They said the battery became faulty and gave me a new one. Problems solved.

You said the the last time the car was in for service, "they had mentioned the vampire draw of the Smart Top module, and that it should be removed".

Did the dealer follow that up with an, "...OR ELSE the battery may stop working and replacing it would not be covered under warranty"? If they cannot prove IN WRITING that they said that, and if there is no specific mention of this subject in the owners manual, then the battery should be covered under warranty.

Meaning your dealer is FOS because they are using an excuse not to cover the battery replacement under warranty. Take it to another dealer and request they replace it under warranty.

[Irishfan]

Originally Posted by BlueZ4AZ

My battery was replaced under warranty a couple weeks ago. One day the clock kept losing time, and a couple other small oddities occured too. I took it to the dealership to troubleshoot it. They said the battery became faulty and gave me a new one. Problems solved.

You said the the last time the car was in for service, "they had mentioned the vampire draw of the Smart Top module, and that it should be removed".

Did the dealer follow that up with an, "...OR ELSE the battery may stop working and replacing it would not be covered under warranty"? If they cannot prove IN WRITING that they said that, and if there is no specific mention of this subject in the owners manual, then the battery should be covered under warranty.

Meaning your dealer is FOS because they are using an excuse not to cover the battery replacement under warranty. Take it to another dealer and request they replace it under warranty.

Might give this a try. Thanks for the suggestion!

[Irishfan]

Originally Posted by teagueAMX

Sorry to say but the dealer identified an excuse in advance for not replacing your battery in the event you needed a new one.

All new cars today have a "vampire draw", although this is the first time I've heard it referred to that way. Let's face it, even though our computers, iPods, cell phones, etc., have an "off" button, they rarely turn off except when you remove the battery or pull the power cord. That's because the button that turns them "off" is connected to an electrically charged integrated circuit which tells the unit turn "on". Usually, the only thing that turns "on" is the display and that does save voltage. But those are clear cut cases of "vampire draw" right there! With or with out the Smart Top module, the electronics in your Z4 never really turn off for the same reason.

A friend had a Vette that was notorious for a having a flat battery after a couple of weeks. His charging system worked perfectly, and he went through several batteries before he finally traded the car. Sometimes electronic system can have a voltage "leak" that will drain the battery.

I agree with other posts here the OEM battery is defective, however, before I gave up on that battery I'd check out a couple of things first.

• Does your car set for long periods?
• Do you have a trickle charger?
• You might have a friend with a good battery charger place a full charge on it before you replace it. It may work OK after that.
• Also, you might consider placing a multimeter in line with the positive lead of your battery to see how much "vampire draw" is actually being pulled when the car off.

I really can't imagine the Smart Top module is pulling that much and certainly not more than the Z's other electronics!

The car doesn't sit for long periods, but I DO have a trickle charger (due to the same issue with the Elise, another story entirely), which I've been using. I think the meter in series is a great idea - have any recommendations?

[Z_Victor1]

A SIMPLE WAY TO CHANGE THE CAR BATTERY
I must be either stupid or old fashioned or un-knowledgeable or something else......
We all accept that if you disconnect a car battery, then reconnect a new one you are asking for SERIOUS electrical trouble.
BUT....SURELY.....
If you first connect another 12-volt DC source (any cheap spare car battery) in PARALLEL to the old battery, disconnect the old and then connect-in a new one, the car's brain/electrics (call it what you will) could never sense a change. Yes, the capacity of a new battery would be far greater, but this would make no difference.
There is NO electrical reason for this not to work.
Problem solved........

Given all the above - if I'm wrong, please explain it to me and why..............! Because it all seems obvious to me.

I had an 840Ci before which had TWO 12-volt batteries wired in parallel and changing was a doddle because of this.

[Memphis1]

"The electrical system in a BMW car is complicated and operated by sophisticated electronics. BMW has their vehicles set up electronically so that you will have to take your car to the BMW dealership if you need to replace the battery; the new battery must be "registered" with the car's computer or it will have a shortened life span, not power your car properly and not receive proper charging from your car's electrical system. Registering the battery is the phrase used to describe resetting the car's computer so it will accept the new battery and work properly with it.

Read more: How to Register a BMW Battery | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7649980_register-bmw-battery.html#ixzz1FB3VZAN6"


http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1479

[HerrK]

You can do the battery registration using the Bavarian Technic tool (access to OBD). It is a good investment if you are a DIYer.

[rmorin49]

Originally Posted by Memphis1

"The electrical system in a BMW car is complicated and operated by sophisticated electronics. BMW has their vehicles set up electronically so that you will have to take your car to the BMW dealership if you need to replace the battery; the new battery must be "registered" with the car's computer or it will have a shortened life span, not power your car properly and not receive proper charging from your car's electrical system. Registering the battery is the phrase used to describe resetting the car's computer so it will accept the new battery and work properly with it.

Read more: How to Register a BMW Battery | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_7649980_register-bmw-battery.html#ixzz1FB3VZAN6"


http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1479

I'm beginning to understand why articles in The Roundel are so negative about the future of DIYers and BMWs. Does anyone know if this same situation exists with Audis?

[HerrK]

Originally Posted by rmorin49

I'm beginning to understand why articles in The Roundel are so negative about the future of DIYers and BMWs. Does anyone know if this same situation exists with Audis?

No disrepect Colonel, but the Roundel is written by a bunch of old farts who in typical stereotype are negitive and don't like change. All new cars are electronically complex, you just need the proper tools to perform the diagnostics. Software to run on your laptop with cable to interface with the OBD connection $300-$600. Being an old fart (55) myself, my son helps me out with the electonics I teach him about the mechanics. Modern day BMW DIY'ers are alive and well.

Nein in regrads to the replacement of an Audi battery - no DME/ECU programing required yet. Search the Audi forums if you're truely considering one - they have their own share of surprises.

[Irishfan]

Hi everyone, thanks for all your help - I really appreciate your comments. Onto the next issue!

Does anyone have a SmartTop installed? The "corrected" wiring diagram (http://www.wit-usa.com/sms/db/smartt...BATTERY/en.php) doesn't work. It seems my next option is to run a power line directly from the battery to the module, but 1. I have no idea how to do this (or which parts to use) and 2. this seems wrong. Does anyone have any insights? Thanks again in advance.

[haspi]

Originally Posted by Irishfan

So, it looks like I'll need to replace the battery in the Z4. I *normally* wouldn't ask any type of question about this sort of thing, but a quick call to the dealer found that they want around $600 to do the replacement, with a large portion of the cost going to "battery conditioning." This seems a bit ridiculous - I thought the battery only needed shampoo.

Anyway, has anyone replaced their Z4's battery? If so, is there anything I need to know prior to dropping in an appropriate replacement from Autozone? Thanks!

I have to change my battery now and got quoted $550 + tax. Has anyone used a third party (pepboys, firestone, etc.) to get their batteries replaced?

How much was that?
What kind of battery would you recommend?

[jparnes1]

When new batteries in 2006+ BMWs have to be installed, the ECU needs to be reset to adjust how much is drawn from the battery at start up. As your battery ages and gets weaker, the car adjusts and draw more power from it to start. If you don't make this adjustment to the ECU, it will continue to "over-draw" and your new battery won't last as long. This has to be done at BMW as it takes proprietary equipment.