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10-31-2016, 10:13 PM | #1 |
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strut brace for e89 3.0 liter
I understand the Strong-Strut company has come out with a model for the e89 3.0 liter cars, has anyone tried one? Seems to look nice in the pictures
http://www.strong-strut.com/e89/e89_z4.htm |
11-01-2016, 01:38 AM | #2 |
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Another possible option, though I'm running it on my 35i, as are a few others. Not sure what the 3.0 clearances are. May require opening up a couple bolt holes just a smidge. Otherwise a strong and good-looking product.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Luxon-Strutbar-for-BMW-Z4-E89-/191988509095?hash=item2cb36829a7:gIQAAOSwmLlX9bS-&vxp=mtr Filippo
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11-01-2016, 01:27 PM | #3 |
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In general, people try to avoid using a strut bar that is made in pieces and has the ends bolted to the center bar- just not as rigid.
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11-01-2016, 01:58 PM | #4 |
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OP - not trying to hijack your thread.
What is the general consensus on Strut Braces for these cars? Especially for a daily driven car. |
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11-01-2016, 03:37 PM | #5 |
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Doubt there is a "consensus". My opinion is that this car has lots of snout sticking out. Putting a solid strut bar, like the Luxon, builds a triangle with the firewall. Along with solid bearing tension strut inserts, my steering is razor sharp - that is, the towers to flex on turning. IMHO the Luxon bar is cheap and a no brainer.
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11-01-2016, 04:01 PM | #6 |
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11-02-2016, 08:27 AM | #7 |
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I certainly agree with the Luxon bar. Very strong and looks great.
But... Three of us here have installed it and none of them dropped right on and bolted up properly. You will have to be prepared to make it fit by adjusting the bolt holes and in my case I also had to adjust the large circle area that goes around the strut tower opening. It is some heavy gauge steel and you may not have the tools, space, ability, time to deal that sort of project. |
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11-02-2016, 11:13 AM | #8 | |
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11-02-2016, 07:04 PM | #10 |
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11-28-2016, 09:47 PM | #11 |
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I installed the Turner motorsports strut bar which bolts the two towers together. I think its better than a bar where you have to oversize or oval the mounting holes to get it to fit. The Turner brackets that bolt to the tower fit perfectly and tight. The cross bar has threaded ends to adjust the length for a tight fit. In conjunction with the factory diagonal bars that run from the firewall to the strut towers the front end is triangulated. The strut bar keeps one tower from moving toward the centerline under load. It works. FYI look at a lot of high $$ cars. Many have removable cross braces for engine access etc. A bolted strut brace works just as well as a welded one.
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12-06-2016, 03:47 PM | #13 | |
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12-06-2016, 05:13 PM | #14 |
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Or if you don't have a drill you can try to lift the car and then put the bar on. It worked for me. No drilling required...
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12-11-2016, 04:33 PM | #15 |
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This is exactly what I was thinking. This is the proper way to do it. Companies that get these cars usually get a car that is brand new and hasn't been driven hard yet. Even if you don't think your car has had some sort of flex in it. It more than likely has if you have over a few thousand miles. Things tend to settle and that is the purpose of these parts. To make the car not flex and keep it as ridged as possible. So if it doesn't fit lifting the car flexes it back to the way it was from the factory.
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01-28-2017, 01:19 PM | #16 | |
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