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      05-22-2021, 08:06 AM   #1
romero1990
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what should I know before buying a E89

Hi Folks.. coming over from E92 forum

I am looking to get a E89 as my daily driver/cruiser to replace the M3 as it is being converted to a track car. I wonder what should I know before looking at any car and what to inspect while at the seller.

I don't have particular engine preference. I4 or I6 works, using it as a cruiser/commuter anyways. I'll probably be looking at newer model yar something 2014-2016 with low millage around 30-50k miles.

thank you all
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      05-22-2021, 07:49 PM   #2
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Hey. I own a 2016 35is for 6 months. Love it! Stock, it understeers a lot. And the downshifting is somewhat lazy, disappointing for a high end car. The stock brake pedal is not made for smooth LFB. It’s a noisy cabin. Otherwise, I get compliments everywhere I go. Glad to help with whatever I can.
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      05-23-2021, 12:03 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcoose View Post
Hey. I own a 2016 35is for 6 months. Love it! Stock, it understeers a lot. And the downshifting is somewhat lazy, disappointing for a high end car. The stock brake pedal is not made for smooth LFB. It’s a noisy cabin. Otherwise, I get compliments everywhere I go. Glad to help with whatever I can.
How about engine? I knew the N54 from e82 era is a bit problematic especially for the injectors. How is the newer model working for you?
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      05-23-2021, 03:33 AM   #4
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I think N54 doesnt have that many issues in these production years anymore.
When this engine was new... 2007 or so it had issues... all the forum threads are from 2008- 2010 era. After that it kind of quiets down.
HPFP has had many revisions... last one is from 2011 to present day.
Injectors aswell are up to revision (index) 12 that came out in 2013...
ignition coils have changed over the years 3 times.

So a 2015-2016 car should have the latest injectors and high pressure fuelpump, better ingnition coils and so on from factory....

Im not saying it is bombproof... Things still can fail. But it is better.
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      05-23-2021, 09:55 AM   #5
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Romero,

It’s my first N54. I bought the car in early December with 37K miles and with OEM warranty. So far so good. Echoing Kenny, things fail. It’s BMW; bring more wallet.

Marc
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      05-24-2021, 07:49 PM   #6
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If you are going to use it as a commuter vehicle, the N20 2.8 liter (turbocharged 2.0 four) might work as well for you. Much better gas mileage than the six cylinder although less power. The car would be cheaper than the 35 as well. If you are looking at 2014-2016 the only options are the turbo four or the six. No N52 straight six. The turbo four had some timing chain issues early on but were resolved in early 2015 for the most part.

So much depends how you plan on driving. Where I live, the roads are windy forested roads mostly and I couldn't get the potential out of the more powerful car anyway. I've had zero problems with the 2.0 liter but my car only has a bit more than 20,000 km (12,500 miles) so it is hardly representative.

Hard to go wrong with either. Good look with your search.
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      05-24-2021, 07:52 PM   #7
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Also, I assume you would know this as well, but thought it was worth mentioning. Make sure you get a prepurchase inspection on anything you want to buy as it could save you headaches down the road. Service history would be a plus if you could get that as well.....
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      05-24-2021, 10:48 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irianjim View Post
If you are going to use it as a commuter vehicle, the N20 2.8 liter (turbocharged 2.0 four) might work as well for you. Much better gas mileage than the six cylinder although less power. The car would be cheaper than the 35 as well. If you are looking at 2014-2016 the only options are the turbo four or the six. No N52 straight six. The turbo four had some timing chain issues early on but were resolved in early 2015 for the most part.

So much depends how you plan on driving. Where I live, the roads are windy forested roads mostly and I couldn't get the potential out of the more powerful car anyway. I've had zero problems with the 2.0 liter but my car only has a bit more than 20,000 km (12,500 miles) so it is hardly representative.

Hard to go wrong with either. Good look with your search.
thanks for the tips. yeah, coming from E92M. PPI is always a must. I don't exactly need a high power out of it. just wanted it reliable and easy to work on
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      05-26-2021, 08:48 AM   #9
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Have the convertible top harness inspected thoroughly. Mine frayed the first time after 9 years. BMW spot repaired the area. But its a very common problem with these cars. The harness is constantly bending and flexing, and there are wires, and hydraulic lines inside - which become brittle after time. I am having the entire harness replaced this week by BMW since this is the second time it failed - and a repair wouldnt be efficient.
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      05-31-2021, 01:52 PM   #10
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good information
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      06-27-2021, 02:06 PM   #11
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Hi, I would take a good scan tool with me to scan the car on the spot. I use a Foxwell NT Elite 510, setup for BMW. I scan both the Z4 and the wifes 328IC when I wash the cars. It only take a few seconds see if any codes come up. This helps keep ahead of any problems before they become money pits. It will also diagnose top sensor problems if they come up. Good luck on your purchase.
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      07-12-2021, 03:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcoose View Post
It’s BMW; bring more wallet.
This is a bittersweet quote. Epic, yet accurate.
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      08-02-2021, 06:10 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by airmarc View Post
Have the convertible top harness inspected thoroughly.
Unfortunately, there is absolutely nothing to be checked from outside. To identify the potenial problem, the rear roof shell has to be dismounted and the loom has to be cut out in the critical top area.


Quote:
Originally Posted by surfwooder View Post
It will also diagnose top sensor problems if they come up. .
That is NOT possible in advance!


If the roof opens and closes without any issue, everything is fine.

Last edited by RobbiZ4; 08-02-2021 at 06:31 AM..
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      08-03-2021, 08:22 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romero1990 View Post
thanks for the tips. yeah, coming from E92M. PPI is always a must. I don't exactly need a high power out of it. just wanted it reliable and easy to work on
I've got a 2016 28i. The 4 cyl has more than enough power for me especially when you consider it's also lighter. It also helps with handling.

There is a big caveat on the N20 engine though. It has a history of engine timing chain and the oil pump drive chain problems that resulted in a TIS Service Bulletin, SI B11 03 17.

N20 AND N26 ENGINE TIMING CHAIN AND OIL PUMP DRIVE CHAIN: LIMITED WARRANTY EXTENSION TO 7 YEARS/70,000 MILES

From what I read online most who had issues had them crop up in the 40000 to 70000 mile range.

It was apparently remedied in a production change in Feb 2015, So cars produced through Feb 2015 are affected. From the SIB:

E89 (Z4 sDrive28 Roadster) with N20 engine produced from 6/2011 to 2/2015

My 2016 has a build date of 3/2015 (I believe that was the start of 2016 production) and it's nowhere close to 40k miles, so I figure I'm good.

But if you're looking at an N20 car from that group, I'd take a closer look at it's service history to see if it's been addressed.

Gerry
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      08-03-2021, 08:53 PM   #15
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I've owned mine for 11 years and counting. HPFP went bad after 5, 6 years, I think? Luckily it was covered, but wasn't lucky in Canada as the fuel injectors went bad and got hit w CAD3,xxx bill. Various leaks (2 times) around the tranny, so total of CAD2,xxx. Relatively minor was the overhead fuel gasket cover (can't rem the actual term), a few hundred bucks. Water pump went out in 8 years but that's supposedly normal wear & tear. My roof is good (knock wood), ironically cuz I use it A LOT, so I guess keeps things lubricated, vs ppl being stingy and not using it and experiencing prbs later on.

Overall, still a great car but it's definitely not a Japanese car in terms of reliability.
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      08-03-2021, 11:37 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tranquility View Post
...My roof is good (knock wood), ironically cuz I use it A LOT, so I guess keeps things lubricated,
How do you avoid the typical E89 roof faults by lubricating wires and hydraulic hoses in an absolutely invisible area of the rear roof shell?

I've never seen any mechanical fault in the last years.
Tbh, lubricating anything in the retractable hardtop is nonsense. Only the 2 salmon relays have to be replaced to a damaged hydraulic pump.
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      08-03-2021, 11:56 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbiZ4 View Post
How do you avoid the typical E89 roof faults by lubricating wires and hydraulic hoses in an absolutely invisible area of the rear roof shell?

I've never seen any mechanical fault in the last years.
Tbh, lubricating anything in the retractable hardtop is nonsense. Only the 2 salmon relays have to be replaced to a damaged hydraulic pump.
You misunderstood, I meant the hydraulic fluid is always flowing since I constantly use my roof, so it's lubricated in that sense, not that I go around spraying it w WD40, but that wouldn't hurt either (btw, why would anyone lube hoses/wires? Ofc if you're gonna do it, just spray the metal joints).
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      08-04-2021, 12:47 AM   #18
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No lubrication at all, as it only collects dust.
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      08-04-2021, 02:11 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobbiZ4 View Post
No lubrication at all, as it only collects dust.
Like I said, I use my roof regularly so the hydraulic fluid is circulated in intervals and that kinda acts as a preventative measure. I haven't lubricated the joints at all but only recently. Dunno if it matters but doesn't hurt and dunno how you can say it collects dust because the mechanism is always covered roof up or down. Anyway...
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      08-04-2021, 03:12 PM   #20
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My opinion on lubricating joints is that its really not needed... I havent seen any manual that says to do that.. There are a few youtube videos i have seen that show lubricating the joints as part of maintaining the roof. But everything published on youtube is not always correct. I think manufacturer probably did extensive testing on roofs mechanism durability and if they saw a need for lubrication then it would be mentioned in owners manual etc.

Lubricant oil would catch all the dust and grime in it and become abrasive messy goo in the end that wears the joints down.

I think that if you are going the lubricating route then do it regularly and clean old stuff off before relubrication. But if you are going to do it rarely then better not do it at all... i have never lubricated any joints on my cars roof. Probably previous owner did not do any of that either. 13th year going and everything is still fine. I did think about it. And this was the conclusion i came to.

I do agree that regular use is better for the roof mechanism than letting it sit and not be used at all. Components would seize in the end if not used for a long time.
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      08-04-2021, 03:31 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KennyP View Post
My opinion on lubricating joints is that its really not needed... I havent seen any manual that says to do that.. There are a few youtube videos i have seen that show lubricating the joints as part of maintaining the roof. But everything published on youtube is not always correct. I think manufacturer probably did extensive testing on roofs mechanism durability and if they saw a need for lubrication then it would be mentioned in owners manual etc.

Lubricant oil would catch all the dust and grime in it and become abrasive messy goo in the end that wears the joints down.

I think that if you are going the lubricating route then do it regularly and clean old stuff off before relubrication. But if you are going to do it rarely then better not do it at all... i have never lubricated any joints on my cars roof. Probably previous owner did not do any of that either. 13th year going and everything is still fine. I did think about it. And this was the conclusion i came to.

I do agree that regular use is better for the roof mechanism than letting it sit and not be used at all. Components would seize in the end if not used for a long time.
I agree, I haven't sprayed my roof at all during all those years until one time when I bought a decent spray for another purpose. I'm not saying it's imperative but it won't hurt if one is smart about it. Like I said, I think a key thing is just to use the roof regularly.
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      08-05-2021, 12:46 AM   #22
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The most important thing is, getting the 2 salmon relays replaced every 5 years to avoid an expensive damage of the hydraulic pump.

The 2nd important task:
replace the 2 microswitches coupling lock in the boot every 10 years
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