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11-17-2009, 07:50 PM | #1 |
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Any Leaks from above?
I heard it mentioned briefly in another thread about leaks during automatic car washes. Is this a common issue? What about leaks otherwise. When its <40 degrees out handwashing is out and touchless autowashes are in.
This will be my first convertible. If this is a common get use to it in a convertible thing I might have second thoughts. Man I hope not. JZ |
11-17-2009, 08:02 PM | #2 |
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if you can, wash it by hand with only the pressure that comes out of the hose, no sprayer or anything, as long as the temps hold out... i wouldn't use autowashes no matter what...
in the dead of winter try to do it in your garage, or find a carwash place that does it by hand indoors. stay away from pressure washers and those auto car wash places with the rollers that smack the sh*t out of your car.
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11-18-2009, 08:31 AM | #5 |
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11-18-2009, 12:07 PM | #6 |
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and yet another hijacked thread...i use a hi pressure wash place and hand wash at it...its good for rinsing and such, but just get a good distance away before hosing the roof down and pdc detectors if you have them. no probs for me
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11-18-2009, 12:25 PM | #7 |
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you should change your id to HIJACKER.
but the reason why you shouldn't use a pressure hose is not because of our top, but because you actually embed the dirt and grime into the paint, if you run your hand after you wash it, it should feel like glass, not like a teenager's face. then little by little the embedded dirt eats away at your paint and then your car looks like you sandblast it instead, or worst opens up space for rust to start building. but then again if you don't care about the exterior looking pristine then yes you can use it...
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11-18-2009, 12:39 PM | #8 |
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I use car washes & mine has leaked 2x in as many tries... =(
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11-18-2009, 01:04 PM | #9 |
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of course you are gonna pock mark the car (teenage acne reference back at ya) if you point blank the pressure washer, but this is where a bit of critical thinking skill comes into play: pressure and the inertia of the water dissipates with distance. no point blanking it! is absolutely fine for rinsing your car with a pressure washer but keep the distance. i find 3-4 feet is sufficient. just remember that even handwashing with the softest cloth/mitt can leave scratches because stuck on debris can come loose on wipe #1 and scratch the car without you being aware of it. But yeah...roof never leaked on me, to address OP's original.
Sincerely, HIJACKER |
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11-18-2009, 03:56 PM | #10 |
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To answer the OP's question - I've run my car thru the dealership's car wash 4 times and a commercial wash once. No issues at all with leaks.
To respond to the OT discussion: My dealer and commercial wash both use low pressure water to soak, brushless wash, then higher pressure to rinse. I used a self-serve high pressure wash for 8 years with my Z3, and the paint looked like new when I traded it. |
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11-18-2009, 05:30 PM | #11 |
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Looks like these guys at a detail shop prefer to powerwash their z4. I have no choice during the winter months. So if the top leaks I'll silicone the seals. If water ruins some electronics BMW will have to pay.
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11-18-2009, 05:56 PM | #12 |
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FYI - Used to drive a Z3 that had developed a leak where the driver's side window meets the soft-top side rubber - right at a joint where the side rubber split comes together when the top is up. Solution was to apply a small dab of petroleum jelly at the joint - worked perfectly.
Have had zero leak problems with Z4MR, but I've looked at the roof joints on the 3 convertible and I'm sure I would go straight to the petroleum jelly trick if I were to own one. You 3 convertible guys might want to give it a try.
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11-18-2009, 10:10 PM | #13 |
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I had no idea you can clean the engine compartment like that. I have never done that to any of my cars. I just wiped it down.
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11-18-2009, 10:12 PM | #14 |
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Mine is the complete opposite. I had all the leaks on my previous 2008 M roadster when I ran it through a car wash. That was really frustrating.
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12-16-2009, 04:47 PM | #16 |
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I only had my Z4 washed three times so far and no leak so far. Previously I owned a VW EOS which also a hard top convertible, never had any leak either with that.
With convertible maintaining the rubber at the joint is important. Usually any leak and noise issue can be fixed by applying lubricant(I use krytox) on the rubber joint. --r
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12-22-2009, 07:45 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
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12-23-2009, 02:30 AM | #18 | |
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Gummi Pflege $19.95 The rubber seals around the convertible top on your roadster are a critical maintenance area. Over time the rubber dries out and shrinks which creates water leaks and wind noise. If your top leaks this could solve your problems. This product, 1Z Einszett Gummi Pflege Stift Rubber Care Stick is a long lasting protection against freezing for rubber seals on car doors, windows and trunks. Protects and keeps the rubber pliable. It restores color to dried out rubber and prevents doors from sticking in cold weather. Protects against extreme temperature and UV rays. Solvent-free, water-based formula. Easy-to-use shoe polish type applicator makes application simple without the mess. Applying to door & window seals will keep the inside of your car watertight. To remain functional, door and window seals should be treated 3 to 4 times a year. Use your bottle of Gummi Pflege to treat all rubber seals. To use, simply prime the bottle's pump head and gently rub the foam applicator tip over your door, window, hood and trunk seals. Allow the Gummi Pflege protectant to soak in and dry (do not wipe it off, let it sink in).
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12-23-2009, 10:31 AM | #19 |
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Do all dealers power-wash the car? If so I'm curious to how they clean the rims as its a damn pain to wash the inside wells. Maybe the power-wash helps for those applications.
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01-05-2010, 02:12 AM | #20 |
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After cleaning and rinsing my car, the plastic under the windows seems trapping water and leaves water marks every opening and closing. Do you guys have such a problem?
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