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02-20-2021, 04:47 AM | #1 |
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What's your input? Water pump going bad?
Hello all z4 members so I need your help on this issue i'm having. I have a e89 2012 z4 35i w/ 103,000 miles and a engine over heating warning came on the Idrive. This issue occurred a couple of days ago when Houston was in a "winter storm". I think it could possibly be the thermostats or waterpump or maybe all together. Here's some signs listed below
1. Fan kicked in high when the car reach 250 on oil gauge. 2. engine light is on (yellow) if i leave it on for 5-10 mins longer after yellow light then it would turn red. There's something thats weird i found out, might be related or maybe not. -Oil measurement on the idrive is saying its inactive, also the heat setting isn't blowing after 5-10 mins when the car is on to warm up. So today (temperature is around 45degree) I decided to turn on the car again and see if the issue would presume and it did. I'm actually surprised that the both thermostats and the waterpump would lasts this loong if thats the issue. Is there ways i can test if this theory is right or not?. If it is the waterpump or the thermostats anyone did a replacement on it yet?. The car is always park indoor and i do have the battery charge/ on a tender. --Thanks for the help. |
02-20-2021, 08:48 AM | #2 |
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I would start with reading fault codes.
Maybe its possible to check waterpump condition by starting coolant bleeding procedure. That would turn on the pump to bleed the system with engine itself off. And you could hear it working + see in the coolant tank if coolant is circulated. Note during bleeding pump does switch on and off numerous times. Obvious problem indicators would be wierd noises or no noise at all. Check if any plastic has come loose in the system... coolant tank level indicator for example can brake and then flow into waterpump blades and stop them spinning. Same can happen with the waterpump to head hose connector on the head side (near oil filter housing) that plastic fitting can brake aswell and pop off... or bits of it break off and again flow with coolant into watepump blades. There are aftermarket metal fittings you can buy to change out that plastic connector. Waterpump and thermostat are usually replaced together. While you are in there type of thing. You dont want to do the job twice. So if you have to change your pump throw a new thermostat on there while you are at it. Oil level inactive is a mystery to me. Failed sensor? Again fault codes would tell you more.
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2009 35i DCT Havana brown with ivory white interior. Mods: Cobb stage 1+FMIC, Wagner EVO1 FMIC, BMS DCI, KW V3 suspension, M3 front control arms, Hardrace RTAB, Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires.
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02-20-2021, 12:47 PM | #3 |
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Sure sounds like a water pump to me (and possibly thermostat). You're damned lucky it's lasted this long. Mine went out (with similar symptoms) @60k and there's a class action suit pending against BMW on this component.
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02-20-2021, 02:42 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Thanks for the reply. |
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02-20-2021, 02:45 PM | #5 |
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-geez if only we can get it replace by the dealer, but small chances that the dealer will replace everyone Z’s. Good thing this is now my summer/weekend car. Did you do the replacement yourself?.
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02-20-2021, 04:48 PM | #6 |
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