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      09-16-2013, 07:03 PM   #1
army_men
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Check Engine Light and Codes after AR DP, ER CP FMIC install.

I'm not sure if all the codes are normal under these circumstances.

After the install of Catless AR DP, and fmic. the ECU had thrown a few code after 2 days of mild useage.

starting with the obivous
P0430, P0420. Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) and (Bank 2)

Then. some people got these after Catless DP:
P2C39 Lambda probe before catalyst dynamics
P2C3A Lambda probe before ctalyst 2, dynamics

Then I got into some weird stuff i have NO CLUE about:
P29F5 Catalyst conversion 2
P29F4
H2FDC
H2FDA
H29F4

Jesus, when was the last time I checked my ECU codes!? How is this possible 2 days after my stage 2 conversion?

to be honest, I am a little scared to drive my car now, it seems to be performing fine on normal driving condition today when I drove home from work, but I was no where pushing the car or squeezing for power.

Thoughts? guys? Is this normal?
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      09-17-2013, 02:24 AM   #2
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Something 's missing in your software, probably the deactivation of the post cat lamdas.

Does it idle a bit higher than normal when cold?

(And what happened with that exhaust dude? )
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      09-17-2013, 07:44 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jannisa View Post
Something 's missing in your software, probably the deactivation of the post cat lamdas.

Does it idle a bit higher than normal when cold?

(And what happened with that exhaust dude? )
Hey Jannis, I'm still running my stock exhaust, way behind on my mod as Ive just got the AR DP installed last weekend. haha. No that I'm in any real rush, but it's been hard to find time.

I was waiting on the exhaust install because I ordered some Cyba tips. I got the Quad carbon fiber tip not realizing it came wielded with a pair of Y pipe. Now I get headache looking at the exhaust tips because to fit new tips on the mufflers would mean a lot of cutting and wielding. I should have thought things through before ordering new tips lol.

ANYWAYS, in time. like all things.
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      09-17-2013, 11:48 AM   #4
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29F4 29F5:
29F4 Catalytic converter conversion
29F5 Catalytic converter conversion 2
EXPLANATION: Cats removed or damaged.
FIX: Reinstall or repair cats, it is illegal in the USA to drive without them.
*** THESE CODES WILL NOT NEGATIVELY IMPACT VEHICLE PERFORMANCE ***

Here is link to N54Tech.com where codes are discussed.
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3930

Good Luck!
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      09-17-2013, 01:04 PM   #5
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don't just check for codes.

If you haven't done it check your data logs to make sure the boost targets are right, AFR is where you expect (especially closed/open loop transition and wide open throttle) and check on the timing correction to make sure you are not detonation.

Sorry if that is stating the obvious...
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      09-17-2013, 05:21 PM   #6
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Hey thanks good sir for the link! Seems like I have some homework to catch up on. Good that these codes are cat related and not something way worse.

That still leaves about 2 codes deciphered. must google harder.

Quote:
Originally Posted by z4z4z4 View Post
29F4 29F5:
29F4 Catalytic converter conversion
29F5 Catalytic converter conversion 2
EXPLANATION: Cats removed or damaged.
FIX: Reinstall or repair cats, it is illegal in the USA to drive without them.
*** THESE CODES WILL NOT NEGATIVELY IMPACT VEHICLE PERFORMANCE ***

Here is link to N54Tech.com where codes are discussed.
http://www.n54tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3930

Good Luck!
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      09-17-2013, 05:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicknaz View Post
don't just check for codes.

If you haven't done it check your data logs to make sure the boost targets are right, AFR is where you expect (especially closed/open loop transition and wide open throttle) and check on the timing correction to make sure you are not detonation.

Sorry if that is stating the obvious...
I haven't data logged yet, but to be honest, I have no idea how to read log graphs or AFR. Is there a good thread for correctly reading graphs?

I will log soon, although my understanding of AFR and closed/open loop transition is almost non existent. Sorry to say. And Thanks for the heads up!

TL,DR: not obvious at all, please help.


Thanks so much!
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      09-17-2013, 07:22 PM   #8
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What tune are you on?
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      09-17-2013, 08:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by army_men View Post
I haven't data logged yet, but to be honest, I have no idea how to read log graphs or AFR. Is there a good thread for correctly reading graphs?

I will log soon, although my understanding of AFR and closed/open loop transition is almost non existent. Sorry to say. And Thanks for the heads up!

TL,DR: not obvious at all, please help.


Thanks so much!
You should ask your tuner to explain this. N54 forums are a good place too.

I am just starting to learn about this stuff myself but happy to give a high level summary of my understanding. These were presented to me as "basic things you should watch out for if you tune your car to make sure it is ok to hammer on it"

Basically for AFR (air fuel ratio) you want to see it move to from ~14 to 12 or lower when you roll on the gas and floor it. "closed loop" is when the car is using its O2 sensors to be efficient/emissions compliant during cruising (hence the leaner AFR) when you floor it your car goes "open loop" and just starts to pump in fuel (i.e. run richer) to prevent detonation when you are high boost high rpm. the transition from closed to open loop is one place where you separate the great tuners from the hacks. (i.e. bad tunes or overly aggressive tunes will keep the AFR too lean for too long and that will cause deto)

for the boost target you need to read the manual on your data logger because the readings are sometimes different (i.e. some you have to subtract 14.7psi to get your boost level) but there you want to be sure your stg2 tune is not being too aggressive and that it is tapering off the boost at high RPM to prevent your turbo for exceeding its RPM limit.

lastly, for the timing correction the rule of thumb is -3 degrees of timing correction in more than 3 cylinders is a sign of detonation. You want to either go with a less aggressive tune or add in better fuel.

Anyway, good luck. Please read up on this a lot more. Very risky to add mods without a clear understanding of what is going on. I am very surprised your tuner let you out of the shop with codes that are not explained to you, or without teaching you how to log and check for issues on the road.
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      09-17-2013, 09:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewyfang View Post
What tune are you on?
Cobb Stage 1 sport ST when i got the codes, then cleared codes and switched to Stage 2 Sport LT, and drove tamely and got a "P2DED Power management closed-circuit protection."

I have emailed Cobb, no reply yet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicknaz View Post
You should ask your tuner to explain this. N54 forums are a good place too.

I am just starting to learn about this stuff myself but happy to give a high level summary of my understanding. These were presented to me as "basic things you should watch out for if you tune your car to make sure it is ok to hammer on it"

Basically for AFR (air fuel ratio) you want to see it move to from ~14 to 12 or lower when you roll on the gas and floor it. "closed loop" is when the car is using its O2 sensors to be efficient/emissions compliant during cruising (hence the leaner AFR) when you floor it your car goes "open loop" and just starts to pump in fuel (i.e. run richer) to prevent detonation when you are high boost high rpm. the transition from closed to open loop is one place where you separate the great tuners from the hacks. (i.e. bad tunes or overly aggressive tunes will keep the AFR too lean for too long and that will cause deto)

for the boost target you need to read the manual on your data logger because the readings are sometimes different (i.e. some you have to subtract 14.7psi to get your boost level) but there you want to be sure your stg2 tune is not being too aggressive and that it is tapering off the boost at high RPM to prevent your turbo for exceeding its RPM limit.

lastly, for the timing correction the rule of thumb is -3 degrees of timing correction in more than 3 cylinders is a sign of detonation. You want to either go with a less aggressive tune or add in better fuel.

Anyway, good luck. Please read up on this a lot more. Very risky to add mods without a clear understanding of what is going on. I am very surprised your tuner let you out of the shop with codes that are not explained to you, or without teaching you how to log and check for issues on the road.
Hey thanks a lot nicknaz, that was a really good summary for me to get started. It sure cleared up some of my confusions while reading on the N54 tuning threads. I'm using off-the-shelf map right now from Cobb, and I haven't found a good tuning shop in Toronto that specialize in BMW N54 engine, in fact most only tune jdm. I'm seriously behind on my readings, probably should have done so before DP install.

I was under the impression that Cobb Stage 2 OTS map is safe with my current setup, and was not expecting codes. I should camp at the e90 post N54 section for a while now. Be back later.

is your car moded right now?

Thanks again!
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      09-17-2013, 11:44 PM   #11
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Seems like codes are from not having a catalytic converter. Not sure Cobb is setup to remove emissions codes with the off the shelf maps. I'm not 100% on this but I bet if you switched to a catted downpipe it would fix the codes.
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      09-18-2013, 01:43 AM   #12
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Try upgrading to one of the + maps, I may have had the same problem and used a Stage 2+ to get rid of the codes. Whatever map I was running was missing the correction for a catless DP.
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      09-18-2013, 07:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nicknaz View Post
Seems like codes are from not having a catalytic converter. Not sure Cobb is setup to remove emissions codes with the off the shelf maps. I'm not 100% on this but I bet if you switched to a catted downpipe it would fix the codes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewyfang View Post
Try upgrading to one of the + maps, I may have had the same problem and used a Stage 2+ to get rid of the codes. Whatever map I was running was missing the correction for a catless DP.
I think that might have fixed it, I switched to Cobb's stage 2 LT map and ran a couple dozen miles without issue. no codes now, and I will do a data log to be sure nothing funny is happening.

Codes in the first post is from running a stage 1 sport ST map. Most of the codes are attributed to lack of cat.

Cheers!
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      09-18-2013, 09:55 AM   #14
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w00t. Post a dyno too man
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      09-18-2013, 03:00 PM   #15
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Good to hear, plus Stage 2 is a little weak anyways :P!
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      09-18-2013, 04:28 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewyfang View Post
Good to hear, plus Stage 2 is a little weak anyways :P!
Time for the Z06 mod =P
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      05-31-2015, 05:03 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by army_men View Post
Cobb Stage 1 sport ST when i got the codes, then cleared codes and switched to Stage 2 Sport LT, and drove tamely and got a "P2DED Power management closed-circuit protection."

I have emailed Cobb, no reply yet.
I just got this code, P2DED, while data logging. How did you resolve it?

Thanks,
Jake


Edit: false alarm. I left my AP plugged in after logging. Nothing to see here folks.
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