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      09-13-2017, 05:29 PM   #1
distinctperson
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2014 35is FBO Build

Hello everyone,

I thought I'd contribute a little bit here by sharing some of the mods I've had installed on my E89 last week, and my take on them.

Parts purchased:
Wagner Tuning EVO II Competition (Anodized Black)
ER Chargepipe
Tial BOV
VRSF 3" Catless downpipes + Downpipe fix (O2 simulator)
Luxon Strut Bar
H&R Front AND Rear Sway Bars
BMS DCI
CF Front lip, side skirts, and trunk spoiler lip

Total price for all parts (including tax + shipping): $3605.47 (excluding installation costs)

Links for all the parts:
FMIC + CP + BOV combo deal : https://www.x-ph.com/bmw-z4-n54-char...er-combo-deal/

Downpipes + CEL fix : http://www.vr-speed.com/vrsf-3-cast-...-35i-35is.html

DCI : http://www.burgertuning.com/dcintake.html

Rear Sway: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...4-30-30si-35i/

Front Sway: https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-2...-30i-30si-35i/

Luxon Strut Bar : http://www.ebay.com/itm/192085260149

Trunk lip spoiler : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Fiber...L:COSI:US:1123

Bumper lip : http://www.ebay.com/itm/191699522274...witem=&vxp=mtr

Side skirts : http://www.ebay.com/itm/131611443782...witem=&vxp=mtr

Additionally, I've gone ahead and used MHD N54 Flasher (available on Google Play Store) to flash Stage2+ map. The cost of the module and the map came out to $148 ($99 flash module + $49 stage 2 maps)

Installation:
Out of convenience, I utilized a nearby shop here in the city to install all the parts. At a rate of $100/hour, they have installed everything, except for the side skirts, strut bar (which is presenting a fitment challenge) and the chargepipe (hasn't arrived yet, as it's made to order due to low demand) for the total cost of $1400. The installation took 2 days (dropped off car on Friday at 10AM, and picked it up on Saturday at 6PM.)

Difficulties:
The front bumper lip isn't fit perfectly. I will take a few pictures of the car later when it stops raining and add them to the post here so that you can evaluate for yourself. I might have them remove it and re-install it at a later time (possibly when installing the Chargepipe once it arrives) since I have an OCD about appearances.

The Luxon strut bar is presenting difficulties as well here. It seems that the unit sent does not align closely with the strut tower bolts according to the shop, even though the vehicle was on a lift. I'm not sure how to proceed here since it was shipped from South Korea -- I haven't emailed the seller yet. I suppose it is also possible that the vehicle has sufficiently flexed over time (37k miles so far) to the point where original geometry has been altered. Any opinions ?

Performance:
The upgrades, along with the Stage2+ flash has demonstrably changed the performance and the handling of the vehicle. Turbo lag has been reduced noticeably, and the throttle response is much sensitive. The exhaust note has morphed into an aggressive tune, particularly when in Sport/Sport+ mode, while it remains civil in comfort mode (exactly how I'd like it to behave.)

The upgraded sway bars made such a difference in cornering that it made me doubt that there even was an OEM bar installed. And judging by the diameter of the OEM bar, it is no wonder why it is ineffective to say the least. Highly recommended!

I have also had the original wheels (19" 326 style) painted gloss black, and I feel like they closely resemble the M4 wheels now (437M style) for a cost of $500 (duration: 7 hours for all 4 wheels)

Special thanks to Fillipo (fmorelli), who was quite generous with his time by answering my basic questions.

P.S : Will post pics later.
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      09-13-2017, 06:28 PM   #2
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Welcome to the club!

Please post pics of the Luxon bar. It took a bit of work, but raising it on the lift helped. Im curious how far off it is.

btw...I'm just going to put this out there...but...you'll be itching for a protune...coilovers...and brake upgrades in the near future...hehe.
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      09-13-2017, 07:46 PM   #3
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I would install the luxon bar with the car on the ground, with the chasis under its static load, where it belongs. You may find that elongating a couple holes will solve the problem. That did it for me. It's a great bar otherwise. A dremel with grinding stone will do the trick.

Nice to see you post!

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      09-13-2017, 09:48 PM   #4
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Since original posting this thread, I sent an email to Luxon via eBay stating my problem, and I received the best response possible, given the circumstances. Their response was:

Quote:
Sorry for the inconvenience.
Can you send me a pictures of strutbar for 2014 Z4 35is?
I'll check it and full refund or send modified strutbar again.
Thanks.
I have left the bar at the shop, so I don't can't take any pictures of it at the moment. My plan was that I'd have them give it a second shot once I drop my car off for the chargepipe install when it arrives. I will have them send me a picture nontheless so that I can send it to the seller (and post it here). I will have them follow your advice Fillipo and leave the car on the ground this time when attempting, although it was you who I quoted when I suggested that they keep it on a lift to make the install go smoother hahaha.

I took the following photos quickly after I parked my car. Exterior is dirty and the lighting was sub-optimal, so I will post others tomorrow under better conditions. Hopefully you'll be able to spot the poorly installed/fitted front bumper lip.






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      09-14-2017, 09:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distinctperson View Post
My plan was that I'd have them give it a second shot once I drop my car off for the chargepipe install when it arrives. I will have them send me a picture nontheless so that I can send it to the seller (and post it here). I will have them follow your advice Fillipo and leave the car on the ground this time when attempting, although it was you who I quoted when I suggested that they keep it on a lift to make the install go smoother hahaha.
Wasn't me that made the suggestion. Holding a chassis up at arbitrary points shifts the unibody around. I have no interest in preloading chassis points, arbitrarily, then bolting them in a preloaded situation. Best to keep the car static as it usually is on the ground, as it was designed, whenever installing chassis reinforcements.

FWIW ... this bar is well made, and inexpensive. No one else makes a bar worth installing for the E89. When Luxon stops selling this bar, the only reasonable alternative will be custom made.

Next, the spacing issue is minimal. Just a bit of grinding to elongate the hole will solve the problem - straightforward shop work ... not difficult, no side-effect to performance of the bar, et cetera. Just widen 1 or 2 holes and bolt it down. Works like a champ.

Good luck .... have your guys take 3 minutes to elongate the holes and you're set.

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      09-15-2017, 11:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fmorelli View Post
Wasn't me that made the suggestion.

Filippo
it was me lol...
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      09-15-2017, 11:57 PM   #7
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My bad, Fillipo. I meant to blame jts1981 there, but I noticed that he held himself accountable pre-emptively lol.

I had the side skirts installed today, and they gave the strut bar a 2nd shot as well. With the vehicle on the ground this time, they were able to install it without much trouble.

Cost for installing skirts and the bar came to $175.

For reference, I didn't feel any immediate improvement in handling/cornering after the strut bar install, whereas the difference was strikingly pronounced after the sway bar upgrade.
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      09-16-2017, 05:25 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distinctperson View Post
For reference, I didn't feel any immediate improvement in handling/cornering after the strut bar install, whereas the difference was strikingly pronounced after the sway bar upgrade.
Strut bar ties everything together, literally. That said there is a lot of slop in the stock suspension. Coil-overs and stiffer bushings will help to eliminate the slop, and generally help the car to feel tighter.

Think of it this way. There are a lot of components between the tire, chassis, and steering wheel. The strut bar stiffened the chassis, but you still have room for improvement between the tire and chassis. The stock set up is very soft. Soft bushings will give you a soft ride, but slow response. Stiffer bushings will give you better response.
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      09-16-2017, 05:50 PM   #9
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I knew it tightened everything, just as I knew there is an advantage to having the setup. I was just highlighting that the difference wasn't as pronounced as with the sway bar upgrade.

I opened the hood for the first time since everything went in, and captured the following.

Doesn't it seem like the intake is mis-aligned ?


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      09-16-2017, 09:11 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distinctperson View Post
I knew it tightened everything, just as I knew there is an advantage to having the setup. I was just highlighting that the difference wasn't as pronounced as with the sway bar upgrade.
Yes. It's not. And as you might imagine there are a ton of changes that have varying effects - getting off RF tires to real ones, M3 suspension bits, coil-overs, et cetera. As jts1981 mentions, the more you tighten up the front, the better.

But also it is apples to oranges. The sway bars help with body roll. The strut bar helps with steering reaction (and keeping suspension geometry intact).
Quote:
Originally Posted by distinctperson View Post
Doesn't it seem like the intake is mis-aligned ?
What seems misaligned about the intake to you? Remember the motor is mounted at an angle.

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      09-28-2017, 07:01 PM   #11
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Just had spacers and ER CP/BoV installed.

I ordered 10/12.5mm (front/back) H&R spacers, along with a longer stud kit for a cost of $327. I was initially concerned that there might be some rubbing, but that is not the case at a all, as you can see from my poorly taken pictures.



Installation cost for spacers and CP came to $200 (2 hours)


Old CP was oily, but not cracked
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      09-28-2017, 07:45 PM   #12
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The rubbing comes after some hard turns and or strong acceleration.
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      02-22-2018, 09:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by distinctperson View Post
Just had spacers and ER CP/BoV installed.


Installation cost for spacers and CP came to $200 (2 hours)

I have the DCI's on my z4 35is and the same rubbing occurred, over the course of months it wore through the outer metal screening and into the filtration material. My turbos failed recently at 24k miles and now I suspect it may have sucked in bits of intake. Are there any other DCI options that fit nicely without rubbing? I have the same intake on my 335i without any issues.
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      02-22-2018, 03:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sahyoun View Post
I have the DCI's on my z4 35is and the same rubbing occurred, over the course of months it wore through the outer metal screening and into the filtration material. My turbos failed recently at 24k miles and now I suspect it may have sucked in bits of intake. Are there any other DCI options that fit nicely without rubbing? I have the same intake on my 335i without any issues.
I have the afe dual cone that comes with the heatshield mounting plate. Seems to work fine and seals against the hood. There was minor rubbing against hood at first but it'll worked it's way out of contact and not a problem anymore.

Side note I believe my VTT inlets will be for sale in the next couple of months if you're interested. Going VTT GC lite route.
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      02-23-2018, 05:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jts1981 View Post
I have the afe dual cone that comes with the heatshield mounting plate. Seems to work fine and seals against the hood. There was minor rubbing against hood at first but it'll worked it's way out of contact and not a problem anymore.

Side note I believe my VTT inlets will be for sale in the next couple of months if you're interested. Going VTT GC lite route.
Me too. Why are you not running vtt inlets with those? What would you use instead?
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      02-23-2018, 08:18 AM   #16
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Quote:
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Me too. Why are you not running vtt inlets with those? What would you use instead?
GClites require the 2 inch version. Oem fitment is 1.75 inch, which is what I have now. I'm doing the inlet/outlet bundle with purchase.
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