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      07-28-2014, 07:22 PM   #19
Hujan
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Drives: M3
Join Date: Apr 2013
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Okay, guys. I knocked this out this weekend using the steps "z4z4z4" provided in the OP. A couple of notes:

1) I actually used a torx bit to turn the e-brake motor clockwise (I believe a 40). I was worried it might break something, but there was almost no resistance at all. After turning that gear/motor until it stopped, I was able to press the piston using a C-clamp. Everything seems to be working fine and no error codes.

2) I found it easier to loosen and remove the 13 mm bolts holding the bracket onto the caliper first, then loosen the 18 mm bolts holding the caliper to the hub assembly. Otherwise, that top 18 mm bolt is a PITA to get to and will almost certainly be "frozen" if your car has any mileage at all. I needed a rubber mallet, a box wrench, and some WD40 to get them moving. I removed the 18 mm bolts first on the passenger side but did the 13 mm bolts first on the driver's side and the latter was much easier.

The only bummer was that ECS sent me the wrong pads for the rear, so do be careful if you have a Z4 built before March 2010 (which is when BMW apparently changed the design). At least I think that was the problem. I had to source some ceramic pads on a Sunday afternoon and my parts guy at BMW Encinitas came through for me. Good guy he is.

Other than that, I popped on the new rotors and ceramic pads without too much incident. Someday I'll flush the brake fluid and maybe throw on some SS lines.

Appreciate 0