|
Wow Bill, you leave us all with a load of homework.
A few points for discussion:
- Toeing out at the front under load while cornering (the reason you suggest switching to the stiffer M3 struts) is beneficial in turn in feel so I believe there must be another reason to get the m3 struts. Perhaps they give space to lower front camber however only in conjunction with strut pin removal which alone results in a decrease at -1 degree. I 'm eagerly awaiting your feedback on the struts. If they don't decrease it further I don't see the point in switching them at least on paper before listening to your feedback.
- I would refrain from maxing down rear camber as this would produce huge amount of ''static'' grip at the back thus exposing the small limit of front camber/grip and will result in understeer. Most importantly if you run -2 degrees at the back losing traction sideways is on/off and your tail will feel like a hammer. Combined with the zero toe you won't have the trend to bring the tail back on track once loose.
- A stiffer rear arb will not decrease understeer, it will increase oversteer, this is partly the same, it's the who-comes-first game. I 'm mentioning it because the h&r arb are rear adjustable.
- I was under the impression that the rear bushings/joints had mostly vertical play and role and would not affect toe when under load.
Personally I run the eibachs and h&r sways (middle position rear) on adaptive suspension with 1mm toe in each side at the front, -1.60 rear camber and 2mm toe in each side rear. Next step will be to remove the strut pins but so far I experience close to zero understeer provided I don't slam it into the corner and a very friendly/progressive behavior once the tail looses traction.
Again I 'm looking forward to your feedback through each stage you 're taking and once more thanks for pioneering this stuff.
|