Awesome trip and great writeup!
Glad you enjoyed our end of the world.
I also was bummed about the artificial steering feel on my Z4. Regarding the floaty suspension, tinkering with tire pressure helped a lot here!
Try raising the cold tire pressure in front about 3 PSI and lower the pressure about 3 PSI in the rear compared to the recommended normal load pressures.
I'm running the 19" Bridgestone RFTs.