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      05-20-2013, 08:22 PM   #1
z4z4z4
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Drives: 2002 M3
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: mild mediterranean breezes

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Installed new REAR pads in driveway


Here's a thousand words to be replaced by pictures soon. This is what I did.
I recommend that brake work should be performed by trained brake specialist/mechanics. You are not encouraged to try this at home. Just sharing what I did to successfully replace my electronic actuated emergency brake pads without using a computer/e-tool/dealership.

I blocked the front wheels. Jacked up the passenger side, the side with pad sensor on rear, since my dashboard has been telling me to replace rear pads for the last 1000 miles. Jackstands in place. Removed the right rear wheel. Car locked, e-brake off and Computer asleep. Don't want to wake it while ebrake motor is removed. Unplugged the electrical connector to brake motor. Removed 2 brake motor fasteners, T-30 Torx. Removed motor. Used 6mm Hex bit in socket of brake piston where motor drive interfaces, clockwise until stopped. I turned the piston interface the wrong direction on purpose and found that it stops within only a few turns same as e-motor applying the brakes (you can check your brake disc if its locked or if it has a little play), Then I turned the other direction 12-15 turns.
Now performed nominal brake pad removal tasks by removing 2 13mm brake pad housing bolts. Used a 15mm open end wrench to assist removal of 13mm bolts. Removed the brake pad housing. Removed pad sensor wire on inside pad. Removed both pads. Removed pad sliders (formed sheet metal pieces). Cleaned under old sliders, installed new. Installed new outside pad. Manually pressed brake Piston back into cylinder to allow new inside pad installation. I did not need to worry about brake fluid runover. It's only 15-16mm of worn pad travel you're displacing. I could have started this job with hood open and watched reservoir level of brake fluid. No turning the piston, just press piston with manly hands or small 2 arm threaded puller, etc. With pads in place reinstalled old or a new pad sensor on inside pad. Installed the pad housing. Torqued and used thread lock on 2 13mm housing bolts. Turned the piston the opposite direction to stop position and then backoff one full turn using 6mm hex in piston/motor interface. Now reinstalled motor, BUT did not force the motor drive into the piston interface. It is a sweet interface with 12 point motor drive easily finding "home" in the piston socket. Reinstall/torqued with thread fastener the 2 T-30 Torx motor housing bolts, but forgot to replace U bracket under the bolts before bolting together. Had to back up a step by removing torx fasteners. The motor housing is plastic. Use a short wratchet to avoid abuse. Plugged in the motor, routed the brake pad sensor as required using retaining features to manage cable.
Before installing my wheel I unlocked the car, opened my passenger window to best listen for any havoc. Turned on engine, pumped brakes a few times......then pulled the ebrake switch. Sweet and short tightening motor sound. Released brake. Retightened and released a few times. All was well. Opened hood, no brake fluid overflow. Reinstalled wheel/tire.
When I restarted there was the service notice and still had the BRAKE light on. NO panic. Time to drive 5 miles to allow reset. Bedded the brakes with a five or six 45 to 20 mph cycles. NO noise. Dashboard Brake Light went away. Now to try a reset of rear brake service reminder in the dash. Plenty of youtube help for that.
Here are a few pics to prove I didn't dream this.
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Sold 2011 Z4, kept 2002 M3
PM for various e89 parts 4sale.

Last edited by z4z4z4; 02-04-2015 at 01:38 AM..
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