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      12-08-2014, 06:09 PM   #1
BMWZ4RIDER
BMWZ4Rider
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Drives: 2009 BMW Z4 35i
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Cape Cod, MA

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DIY H and R Lowering Springs For 2009 35i Z4

H and R Lowering Springs DIY Installation
Part # 28987-1
Non Adaptive Suspension

I could not find an DIY on the web for installing H and R (or any) lowering springs for my 09 Z4 35i NON Adaptive Suspension.

I found many installations on 3 series and other Bimmers which I took notes from, so I took on this project.

1st I got a quote for the 4 springs installed from a trusted local mechanic who specializes in German and other cars. He quoted me $841 to do the 4 spring install and complete
an alignment.

Some Tips and Lessons Learned:
I used all the standard hand tools- No air guns
You need 2 Jacks- 1 Low Profile which is an ABSOLUTE MUST especially after the lowering springs are installed on the F.
Experience
If you raise the car with a standard size jack, lower the car on the jack stands, install the new lowering springs and then lower the car from the center F jack point with anything other
then a low profile jack, you will not be able to get the
jack out from under the newly lowered car.

I started with the Rear Springs
Basics:
1. Loosen the wheel lugs on the ground.
2. Raise the car from the Center Jack Points in the rear
3. Put the car on jack stands- both sides.
4. Remove the wheel- DUH.
5. Put the 2nd jack under the rear suspension Shock Carrier mount and put light pressure on the mount
6. Remove the Shock Bolt. This the ONLY bolt that has to be removed to get the spring off.
7. Put the Spring Compressor on the spring.
8. Compress the springs appx. 1 to 1.5 inches.
9. Lower the jack on the shock arm low enough to allow the spring to move around in the mounting brackets.
10. As I did this alone, I had to then lean heavily on the hub to push the spring mount down which will allow enough room under the spring to pry out the bottom rubber spring mount
with the spring still in place.
11. Once this Rubber Mount is removed the spring will come right out.

1st spring took me 2 hours to remove BUT I was being VERY careful and I was very slow to go- NO MISTAKES. 2nd spring tool 30 minutes

(NOTE and Lesson)
Use the Correct Spring Compressor Tool for the Job. There were 2 types needed. One fit the rear due to small amount of room and the 2 bar system to fit the front. I borrowed
these tools from AutoZone for a $50 deposit.
I loaned out the 2 different tools.

12. IMPORTANT- Once the spring is OUT Raise the suspension arm with the jack. DO NOT LET THE Wheel hub HANG as this is putting twisting and stretching motion on the
bushings. A short time hanging is OK while getting the spring out BUT Letting the hub just Hang COULD damage the bushings- My Opinion.
12. Remove the Upper Robber Spring Mount
13. Clean The Upper and Lower Rubber Springs Mounts.
14. Clean the Spring mounting arms on the car. (I Completely cleaned the wheel wells, brakes, everything- Personal choice.
15. Note the Rubber spring mounting boot and where the OEM springs sat in them and left indents. I installed the new springs with the springs ends located 180 degrees on the opposite side as there are no mounting stops on the rubber mounts on the rear (BUT there are very specific mounting stops on the Front)
16. Lower the Jack to the lowest point possible and allow the wheel hub to hang freely (BUT with Keeping the Jack still under shock mount and ready to raise it when the new spring is installed.)
17. No Need for the Springs Compressor to Install the new springs, as they are substantially shorter then stock even with the top and bottom rubber boots installed on the springs.
18. Install the spring making sure the rubber mount fit into the spring arm locations. Note there is a correct spring top and top and bottom.
19. Once the spring is installed properly, raise the hub up with the jack.
20. Reinstalled the shock bolt.
21. Repeat on the other side.

Front
1. 1-4 Same as the rear. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO TAKE THE STRUT ASSEMBLY OUT OF THE CAR TO COMPLETE THIS INSTALL.
2. Remove the 3 rubber hoses, tool less, from there mounts, which are mounted to the wheel well and brake hose support
3. Unbolt the Brake Hose Bolt and suspension Connector arm.
4. Passenger Side- Remove the small electric motor arm- UNSURE what this does BUT the 10MM nut/Bolt must me removed to allow full front suspension travel.
5. Put the 2nd Jack under the suspension arm and sung it up with pressure on the arm.
6. Open the Hood.
7. Take the Dust cap off the strut not cover.
8. 19 MM- Loosen the Strut Nut. You need 2 tools to do this correctly.
9. NOTE- I DID NOT have the correct size allen key to fit into the center strut post to keep it from turning while loosening the strut nut.
Improvision Here- I took a pair of locking jaw pliers. I use duct tape and tapers off the sharp edges, Then taped felt over the teeth for a smooth surface on the pliers. I then when inside the wheel well and clamped with LIGHT pressure the strut, Loosened the strut nut.
10. Jack up the strut and compress the spring with the jack, This makes putting the spring compressors on much easier.
11. Back in the wheel well, put on the 2 bar spring compressors located 180 apart on the spring. NOTE- Put on the spring compressors on the springs with the turning nut on the top, as there is not enough room to have the LONG threaded rod of the compressor fit up inside the strut housing with the turning nut on the bottom.
12. EVENLY compress the springs until 2-3 springs are touching each other.
13. Back in the ER- Now remove the 3 strut nuts.
14. Now begin to slowly lower the strut assembly with the jack.
15. Before lowering all the want down jget a HEAVT DUTY bungy or ROPE and tie it around the strut assembly tieing it off in the ER. This keeps the VERY HEAVY strut assembly from torqueing and twisting all the bushings on the steering arms etc. if you let it just hang freely.
15. Once the strut assembly is lowered and with the correct spring compression the complete struct/spring assembly will come out of the mounting hole and come out of the wheel well. AGAIN TIE THIS ASSEMBLY OFF. DO NOT LET IT HANG FREELY. USE THE BUNGY/ROPE FOR SUPPORTING THIS.
16. With the spring compressors left on the spring, continue to remove the strut/spring bolt on top. Use the lock pliers technique above if the strut is still turning while removing the nut.
17. Carefully removed the strut spring assembly and note the order of the parts. Once the nit is off, Remove in order:
Strut assembly top
Grease cover on the bottom side of this assembly.
Large tapered formed washer- MUST BE PUT BACK IN THE SAME ORDER.
Spring mount top
Spring
Spring mount bottom- Located on the Strut assembly.
18. CLEAN EVERYTHING
19. Grease the bearing on the strut top. This is your only change to service this piece.
20. Ready for Re-assembly- Prefit the HR spring o the strut mount bottom- NOTE the Spring end stop.
21. Prefit the Spring mount top with Pre set mounting location.
22. On the ground, put the 2 springs compressors on the HR Spring.
23. Compress the spring until the 3 center springs are touching.
24. Put the Spring on the lower strut mount, with the spring end fit into the correct location as described about. If the spring is compressed enough, the spring mount top will fit (with the spring end fit into mounting stop provided) and allow the strut mounting top to fit over the strut and put the center bolt on.
25. Tighten the bolt on the strut top as tight as possibe.
26. Now lower the strut with the jack and slide the assembly up insiude the wheel well and into it position.
27. Use the jack to jack up the suspension into the strut location and align the 3 bolts and ALIGNMENT PIN into position with the jack. If the bolts and pin are not in the correct position, rotate the top until it aligns up 3 bolts and 1 pin- There is only 1 way this will go.
28. When aligned raise up jack until the bolts protrude into there designated holes.
29. Tighten the bolts.
Reinstall all the hoses removed from there clamps and other bolts.
30. Now do the other side- 1st F spring took me 4 hours. 2nd one took me 2 hours.
31. Put the car together, Lower it Literally and test drive.
My car drives straight as an arrow. It is recommended to get her aligned BUT I am not sure why, with the achieved results.
The car dropped appx 1 to 1.2 inches as stated by H and R. I love the Look and she dove like a champ.
Attached Images
                                               
__________________
2009 BMW Z4 35i/SMG/DCT/Premium,Cold, Sound PK/Com Acc/Ash/PDC/Wind Deflector/Smoked Reflectors/Red Calipers/Cl Mask/M Series Grill/6000K LED's/De-Badged/M Pedals/CF Mirrors-Engine Cover/Stubby/20% Tint/H8 LED's/LCI Side Markers/Sniper Sprint Spoiler/VMR V710/H&R Sport Springs/KN.
Appreciate 2